Crockett .32 Squirrel rifle kit. Any good?

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I've found the Crockett, and .32 rifles in general, to not be any more prone to excessive fouling than larger caliber muzzleloaders. I now have a TVM SMR Tn poorboy flintlock in .32. If I can get it to shoot as well as the Crockett I'll be more than satisfied. I use tight loads and that keeps the fouling down to only one shots worth; looser loads in any caliber foul a lot.
 
We need to compare flinters to flinters and caps to caps. We are all aware that flint locks requires at least 15% more powder than a cap gun. The narrow powder column in a .32 allows a limited flame path. The Perc cap develops a a much more aggressive flame than does the flint lock. Yes, a .32 cap rifle burns more efficiently.
The flint lock can gain some advantage with 2 F powder and a Chamber's Lightening vent. It is about loads that allow a path for flame to follow and ignition. :)
 
Tacoma glad you ask. eastbank's post #24 makes an excellent point. He points out how important it is to wipe the rod clean. When carbon builds on a rod it becomes a carbon file. It seems to me the soft aluminum rods are more difficult to clean . The fiber glass rods are on my"No" list.:thumbup:

The comments on ram rod material brought to mind lapping valve seats and flanges during my Navy days. Lapping tools were general softer than the steel surface being lapped as the lapping compound would adhere to the softer material and thus polish the harder material. Would a hardened steel rod be less destructive. Just a senior moment.:)
 
A great many report good success with the Crocketts.

I chose a .36 for my custom because I've read they don't fowl so bad and the balls are easier to deal with over the tiny .32s. Plus with 000 buckshot it can be very cheap to shoot (same with .32s) and has some better performance at longer ranges.
 
A great many report good success with the Crocketts.

I chose a .36 for my custom because I've read they don't fowl so bad and the balls are easier to deal with over the tiny .32s. Plus with 000 buckshot it can be very cheap to shoot (same with .32s) and has some better performance at longer ranges.
what size of buckshot ball fits the 32's?
 
Ok, I've been delinquent here as since retirement, I've been busier than ever conquering a long standing "to do" list. The rifle project got done an hour or so at a time and even got shelved for a bit because I misplaced my Oxpho Blue. After two weeks of searching, I finally just used the Birchwood Casey bluing that came with the finishing kit. So first, I really enjoyed the project. Most of the parts fit with just little fitting/modification. ( Including the hammer to nipple line up on which I had been reading horror stories about.) The trigger, as supplied is awesome! In the end, I'm pleased with the fit, finish and function. I'm also glad I did this as a kit vs purchasing the finished gun. The (plainly figured ) "European hardwood" stock in particular came out nicer with the application of some finishing tricks. I'm thinking it's going to be a sweet shooter due to it's heft and balance too. It just feels good in the hand. ( Hope to get it to the range this week some time for some test shooting.)
Here are a few pics of the finished product.

Sorry, having an issue with PhotoBucket!
I'll try to resolve shortly!
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I've had no problems with my Crockett .32 rifle. It fouls faster than my .45 Frankenstein rifle. But I can get 6-8 shots before it gets obnoxious to load. I haven't found its sweet spot yet but can hit paper plates at 50yds.
 
I've got a Pedersoli in .32 Squirrel Rifle in flintlock, that was a kit, as well as the Pedersoli in .50 flintlock, granted the .50 caliber stays clean a lot longer than the .32 but I can still get at least 5 shots thru it fairly accurately before I have to put a dampened patch thru the bore prior to shooting it again. BTW I've got a graphite rod for cleaning both as well as ramming the ball down the barrel, like most other hunters and bp shooters I generally use a 6" starter rod, to start the patch and ball. Further I use Thompson's Bore Butter for patch grease. I know that isn't traditional, but then again neither is the graphite rod.
 
Man that is one beautiful smokepole there Tacoma, is that just a hard wood stock or did you get a different one. Do like the finish, how is the accuracy?
 
Oh, i would start off the bench with about 40 gr of 3f, and shoot 5 shots.
Add 5 gr and shoot 5 more.
Repeat
Keep good notes. Compare your groups. Wipe the bore between groups of 5. Take note of the fouling also.

Mine shoots good with 55gr. 70 gr is a stiff hunting load.(.45/70)
For the absolute best accuracy; be sure to weigh the bullet/balls, they can vary as much as 10 grains from one to another, I group mine in 3 grain groups and can get clover leafs with all else being equal and from a bench. I found this out even with match grade modern bullets, I both cast and reload modern cartridges and for max accuracy; I weigh all my bullets and group into smallest wt. groups for targeting.
 
Thanks gents. I think it came out pretty good. The stock actually was pretty plain. ( Factory tells me it's "European beach" whatever that is. )It also had one 2" circular "flaw" on the left side of the butt that stood out like a sore thumb.. That ugly flaw made me get creative. Most of the "figure" you see is the result of thinned brown leather die applied randomly (and sparingly) over the the first coat of stain with a couple of custom cut sash brush. I do think it came out much better than it would have if I had just used the walnut stain.
My club's range has been closed for repairs for a few weeks and reopens next week. I hope to get out next week and start some load development with the generous info gathered here.

p.s. If anyone is interested in my stock figuring method, I could likely scrape up some details /pictures and post in another thread.
 
Thanks gents. I think it came out pretty good. The stock actually was pretty plain. ( Factory tells me it's "European beach" whatever that is. )It also had one 2" circular "flaw" on the left side of the butt that stood out like a sore thumb.. That ugly flaw made me get creative. Most of the "figure" you see is the result of thinned brown leather die applied randomly (and sparingly) over the the first coat of stain with a couple of custom cut sash brush. I do think it came out much better than it would have if I had just used the walnut stain.
My club's range has been closed for repairs for a few weeks and reopens next week. I hope to get out next week and start some load development with the generous info gathered here.

p.s. If anyone is interested in my stock figuring method, I could likely scrape up some details /pictures and post in another thread.

Awesome job on that kit! Consider joining the Official (accept no substitute) High Road Caplock Rifle Club!!
 
One nice piece of work there fellow New Englander. Is it an illusion but does the butt stock have that much drop. The distance from the trigger guard to the rail top looks huge.
 
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