CZ 455 varmint tacticool stock pillar bedding.

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by R.W.Dale, Jan 10, 2021.

  1. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    I happened across a too good to pass up deal on a CZ 455 varmint that appears to have been fired extremely little.

    Black tacticool stock (more on that)
    EGW 20moa base
    Box and 3 mags (one 10rd)
    $500 bones OTD

    I bought this unit expecting a build for my local rimfire benchrest matches. Probably in the “stock” class which dictates I use the original stock. Well upon getting the rifle home I noticed immediately that the action could move front to rear a mm or so and that the stock offered no resistance to tightening the action screws even finger tight before it started to spread. For a rifle that’s generally held in such accuracy acclaim the bedding system used is for lack of a better word crap, or at least with this particular model and stock combination. I never noticed an issue with my old 452’s.

    But I’m not perturbed I planned on pillar bedding this rifle anyway, it’s just that there’s no point in shooting it beforehand.

    Before this build thread starts I have a question for those of you who have bedded rimfires for top accuracy. In your experience how far up the barrel is bedding warranted? This particular design requires at least partial.
     
  2. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    Shown is a crack in the stock where it could not handle the the stress of having been tightened by the previous owner or possibly even the factory. 8BCD2AB6-7F0F-42B3-8141-9C95AD76D638.jpeg 8C392567-82AC-4221-9CCD-58A349C0A459.jpeg
     
  3. Flintknapper

    Flintknapper Member

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    Bedded the action and first inch of the barrel on mine before firing the first shot (17 HMR and a .22 barrel). But I do that with most new rifles.

    It's accurate.

    455_g.JPG
     
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  4. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    Nice work flint.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2021
  5. Riomouse911

    Riomouse911 Member

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    Well done, you brought that rifle back from the dead :thumbup:.

    Stay safe.
     
  6. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    First steps. I have bored the stock out for the yet to arrive pillars. I used a Bridgeport at work. To center on the existing cuts the appropriate sized transfer punch was used in a collet to act as a guide and was then swapped out for an end mill.

    545D4D44-2B16-48EF-AC1B-F758CBB1B164.jpeg 13D32F39-641F-4B90-B45E-C6EA3C65670B.jpeg 37A25908-EBDB-462E-BC1D-837E29F89A51.jpeg E8E48D19-C105-4801-993B-40170261A61D.jpeg 35A143A4-E692-4D1B-8777-43BE38A7386D.jpeg 55453CE1-36E4-44B5-BA1F-DE3F6AB0C8D2.jpeg
     
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  7. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    These pics show the stock prepared for the pillars. Not well shown are a few divots drilled into the sides of the cuts to give the pillars some mechanical bonding as well as chemical.

    6434DD26-9DC7-4890-93D1-4AD72F15E510.jpeg B5086B4A-C522-42EA-B5EB-AA66047E8524.jpeg 0570D13D-75DC-4D30-AAB1-9796BD63F712.jpeg
     
  8. Skylerbone

    Skylerbone Member

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    Dale I would pin the broken section if there’s enough meat there and I’d bed a 2-3” of barrel. You’re doing some great work there.
     
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  9. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    I just don’t think it’s big enough. I put the stock in a vise and glued it. Even after drying overnight it instantly cracked again when I released the vise. Apparently that’s where the stock wants to be in terms of width.

    I’m about convinced that once pillar bedded that crack will be a non issue
     
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  10. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    More parts arriving = more progress

    Got my pillars from an eBay seller. I could have made them and already had the material but I wanted the fit up studs and new action screws. The Devon putty is nice to have.

    pics show the pillars cut to length. The front pillar has a very pronounced notch cut from it to clear the magazine block. After cutting the rear stood a little proud so I wrapped a socket the same diameter as the receiver (30mm) and used that to sand a matching radius in the rear pillar. This got my lengths perfect and gives a little more contact.

    Given all the stuff I have to bed around I believe I am just going to get the pillars glued in first and then make the more elaborate damming needed to bed the front and rear.

    2604D549-2F2F-4AFC-9070-563779D36401.jpeg 494F809D-6945-40AD-AAA6-08149EECF218.jpeg B911FB4D-66F3-4FBD-832F-4B058815377B.jpeg F800F50C-EEFA-4B7F-9693-02A58C3F2353.jpeg
     
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  11. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    10A9B05C-BAF5-4027-9E7D-C36C5FAC527B.jpeg F6877592-880D-429D-ADC5-E6D958CB25EE.jpeg A3D8F288-1AD6-43C8-932C-7141E44D9016.jpeg 7BC42024-2D55-4DCE-8FBC-A7002CC86C64.jpeg The pillars are in successfully. The release agent I’ve been using has been Lee Alox bullet lube. It seems to work well in this role which gives the stuff exactly one use I’ve found for it.

    My damming is a product from the electrical supply house called Duct Seal. It’s like a play dough that never really dries, it’s slightly sticky and stays put well.
     
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  12. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    Next step the actual bedding

    after becoming intimate with this rifle and where what component lands in respect to the bedding it’s evident that there’s nowhere at the front of the action besides the small space immediately around the front screw to serve as a contact point. The barrel set screws and magazine box all occupy this space. So as mentioned the barrel itself will be the front bedding surface.


    The tang has more room to bear the torque of the action screws.

    point of no return. A703D877-9BCD-4F31-BBF5-3A6C71031352.jpeg 86799A72-6854-4964-9336-53309EE27E58.jpeg
     
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  13. Flintknapper

    Flintknapper Member

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    Good work, can't wait to see the finished product. Agree that the crack will be of no consequence.

    Once you've made sure the barreled action is not moving in the stock (regardless the technique) then its all a matter of good ammo and barrel harmonics. I'm sure you already know the trigger is adjustable (to a point). Most CZ's will shoot pretty good, your's should be no exception.

    I keep the .17 HMR barrel on mine, but the .22 LR barrel is actually a bit more accurate (with ELEY ammo) out to 75 yds. The .17 will shoot 1/2 MOA at 100 yds. if I do my part. Plenty good for a small varmint rifle....which is what I use mine for.
     
  14. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    9DE6A867-C408-46D1-8DC8-4ABF2B0B0F25.jpeg 16BCB0AA-DF5B-4178-A405-8B4C9C8D1430.jpeg 72639BE6-2C02-40A1-B070-3803A8FA28E5.jpeg A new day more progress.

    the Alox bullet lube as a release agent worked quite well. It only took one tap with a brass hammer on the rear stud to completely free the action.

    the rear filled in very nicely. The front unfortunately didn’t get quite enough fill and what part did fill was lopsided to one side.

    I used all my devcon so I am going to add some more material to the front using job weld for a better more even contact.
     
  15. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    The front top off worked out well. The Alox release agent continues to be fantastic



    3A492790-390E-432D-8524-68E1C93A23A9.jpeg
     
  16. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    All cured and cleaned up. Everything fits back in the stock just like before. I do still need to cut 6ish mm off one of the replacement action screws. The front was in my opinion too short to begin with and only catches 2 turns at most.

    I’ve also installed a sketchy light trigger spring robbed from an ink pen.

    I am not too concerned with the cosmetics where I skuffed the stock in a couple places. I plan on doing a wild paint scheme when the weather warms up.



    72D519AA-50CB-47C8-BCAB-5A8BCA212124.jpeg
     
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