Did I ruin my die?

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This is a cross section of a Lee FCD, 38/357 in this particular case.

38_FCD.jpg

I am assuming the OP removed the upper two parts that actually form the crimp and attempted to push the load 9mm round through the carbide sizing ring at the bottom of the die and it got stuck. From the OP picture is appears the rim is approaching half way through the carbide ring. I would ask what press the OP is using? Some presses are going to give you more mechanical advantage than others. This seem like the OP simply needs a stronger press and a pusher that does not press on the primer like @vaalpens shared and drive that round the rest of the way through. I would spray some good penetrating lubricant in the top of the die and let it sit for awhile to help lubricated it. Again unless I am missing something this simply seems like a modest amount more force is all that is need.

<tongue only partially in my cheek> For that matter point the die in a safe direct and fire it. Put it in a vice with something to protect the threads, point it in a safe direction, Put on some heavy welding gloves, and a good pair of safety glasses and full face shield and use a small diameter punch and hammer and detonate that cartridge. The case is almost through the carbide ring and when the primer and powder go off the top of the case is going to rupture into the oversize ID of the FCD body. The powder will burn very poorly and generate very little pressure and bullet will have relatively low velocity sort of like shooting 9mm in a 40S&W. Then you should be able to hammer that case out or if you like drill out the stuck case to an ID as close as you can get but not touching the carbide and then you should be able to easily pick the remainder of the case out of the die. This last part would be easy on a lathe (as someone mentioned up thread) but prefectly do able with a vice and a pistol drill if you handy. </tongue only partially in my cheek>

I think several of us could come up with a few other ways to clear this with varying levels of risk and tool requirements. Just does not seem that hard of a problem to this engineer. Good luck OP.
 
How bout this.
You might be able to use the adjustment cap that came with the die, but a bolt would be better, maybe 5/8. Pack the inside of the die above the bullet with grease, if using the cap, pack it with grease also. Tighten the bolt or cap until the hydraulic pressure either forces out the case or the threads let go. Cushion the area at the rear of the die, the cartridge may eject with some force if there was a large enough air pocket compressed.

It's pretty much the grease gun method, without a grease gun or a lathe.
 
If you go from the top you DO NOT WANT TO CONTACT THE CRIMP RING. If you do you just make it tighter.

Now if you removed all of the internals and tried to press it through and it got stuck. You just need more power/force to finish what you started. Find some one with a Arbor Press or Hydraulic Press and push it the rest of the way.
 
I inspected both my 40s&w and 9mm FCD's, and there is definitely a difference between them. The 9mm carbide ring seems about double the length of the 40s&w carbide ring. My caliper is not the correct tool to measure the inside diameter of the ring, but the 9mm ring is definitely tapered. It seems it is about .010" smaller at the top, than the bottom. So this basically confirms that the 9mm FCD should not be used as a debulger for 9mm.

Regarding the OP's issue with the round stuck in the FCD. It is probably not the best solution to try and push it through the FCD from the primer side up. Probably the only way out is from the top down.
 
I inspected both my 40s&w and 9mm FCD's, and there is definitely a difference between them. The 9mm carbide ring seems about double the length of the 40s&w carbide ring. My caliper is not the correct tool to measure the inside diameter of the ring, but the 9mm ring is definitely tapered. It seems it is about .010" smaller at the top, than the bottom. So this basically confirms that the 9mm FCD should not be used as a debulger for 9mm.

Regarding the OP's issue with the round stuck in the FCD. It is probably not the best solution to try and push it through the FCD from the primer side up. Probably the only way out is from the top down.

Thanks for that info.
 
Thanks for that info.

When I measured the inside diameter for the 40s&w, I measure around .4215". This is close to the 40s&w spec of .424 - .010.

The 9mm inside diameter measured .388" bottom to about .378" at the top. The 9mm spec is .394 - .010. I don't think my not precise caliper measurement can compensate for the difference between .378" and .394".

Lee should be able to provide a definitive answer if the 9mm FCD can be used as a debulger, but I probably wouldn't try to use it.
 
This is from the Lee website, listing the FCD dies that can be used for debulging.
debulger.PNG
 
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First off, I know the OP stated that they intended to use the 9mm makarov FCD and used the 9x19 FCD by mistake leading to the stuck round. BUT, I'm wondering where did the practice of using the 9mm makarov die originate? I have heard it stated before that the makarov FCD allows one to bulge bust 9x19, but I don't think that info comes from Lee. I've checked their catalog, website, reloading manual, and bulge buster instructions and there is no mention of this. Their bulge buster info on the website basically says "if the caliber you are looking for is not listed above, it CAN NOT be used with the bulge buster. " And no 9mm rounds are "listed above"

As far as removing the round I'm sure a number of methods already described here would work, it's just a matter of what the OP feels confident they can do safely. If OP doesn't feel good about any of these ideas maybe they should call Lee customer service and see what they say. I believe Lee will remove a stuck CASE from a sizing die for a small fee if you mail it to them. Perhaps you could wrap this mess in a big wad of bubble wrap and send it to Lee to either remove the round or dispose of it safely. If they can't fix it they might offer a discount on a replacement die, it doesn't hurt to ask.
 
First off, I know the OP stated that they intended to use the 9mm makarov FCD and used the 9x19 FCD by mistake leading to the stuck round. BUT, I'm wondering where did the practice of using the 9mm makarov die originate? I have heard it stated before that the makarov FCD allows one to bulge bust 9x19, but I don't think that info comes from Lee. I've checked their catalog, website, reloading manual, and bulge buster instructions and there is no mention of this. Their bulge buster info on the website basically says "if the caliber you are looking for is not listed above, it CAN NOT be used with the bulge buster. " And no 9mm rounds are "listed above"

As far as removing the round I'm sure a number of methods already described here would work, it's just a matter of what the OP feels confident they can do safely. If OP doesn't feel good about any of these ideas maybe they should call Lee customer service and see what they say. I believe Lee will remove a stuck CASE from a sizing die for a small fee if you mail it to them. Perhaps you could wrap this mess in a big wad of bubble wrap and send it to Lee to either remove the round or dispose of it safely. If they can't fix it they might offer a discount on a replacement die, it doesn't hurt to ask.
Excellent question
 
1. 9mm Makarov is a straight case approximately the same head diameter as the tapered 9mm Para. Its die can be used to iron out bulges near the rim of 9mm Para.

2. "Bulge busting" is to be done on empty cases. Hard ramming a loaded round through a small hole has at least some risk of firing it in a confining "chamber."

In my opinion:
The OP should replace the offending die rather than struggle with a stuck round. Consider it a fine for unobservant loading.

I would not go to so much trouble for a cheap 9mm in the first place.
If a CFC die used as designed doesn't get it in the gauge, I pull it down for the components an add the deformed case to the scrap brass box.
 
1. 9mm Makarov is a straight case approximately the same head diameter as the tapered 9mm Para. Its die can be used to iron out bulges near the rim of 9mm Para.

2. "Bulge busting" is to be done on empty cases. Hard ramming a loaded round through a small hole has at least some risk of firing it in a confining "chamber."

In my opinion:
The OP should replace the offending die rather than struggle with a stuck round. Consider it a fine for unobservant loading.

I would not go to so much trouble for a cheap 9mm in the first place.
If a CFC die used as designed doesn't get it in the gauge, I pull it down for the components an add the deformed case to the scrap brass box.
As OP’s comment #39 indicated, he is replacing the die. Lee’s bulge buster instructions clearly state=loaded cartridges too albeit, no mention of 9mm.
 
First off, I know the OP stated that they intended to use the 9mm makarov FCD and used the 9x19 FCD by mistake leading to the stuck round. BUT, I'm wondering where did the practice of using the 9mm makarov die originate? I have heard it stated before that the makarov FCD allows one to bulge bust 9x19, but I don't think that info comes from Lee. I've checked their catalog, website, reloading manual, and bulge buster instructions and there is no mention of this. Their bulge buster info on the website basically says "if the caliber you are looking for is not listed above, it CAN NOT be used with the bulge buster. " And no 9mm rounds are "listed above"

As far as removing the round I'm sure a number of methods already described here would work, it's just a matter of what the OP feels confident they can do safely. If OP doesn't feel good about any of these ideas maybe they should call Lee customer service and see what they say. I believe Lee will remove a stuck CASE from a sizing die for a small fee if you mail it to them. Perhaps you could wrap this mess in a big wad of bubble wrap and send it to Lee to either remove the round or dispose of it safely. If they can't fix it they might offer a discount on a replacement die, it doesn't hurt to ask.
LEE used to publish this recommendation. Then they found that sometimes the carbide ring in the 9mmMAK FCD would crack, so they removed the recommendation. So now, if you use the 9mmMAK die, you are on your own as far as warranty goes. I've pushed thousands of 9mm brass through mine and it's still going strong.
 
First off, I know the OP stated that they intended to use the 9mm makarov FCD and used the 9x19 FCD by mistake leading to the stuck round. BUT, I'm wondering where did the practice of using the 9mm makarov die originate? I have heard it stated before that the makarov FCD allows one to bulge bust 9x19, but I don't think that info comes from Lee. I've checked their catalog, website, reloading manual, and bulge buster instructions and there is no mention of this. Their bulge buster info on the website basically says "if the caliber you are looking for is not listed above, it CAN NOT be used with the bulge buster. " And no 9mm rounds are "listed above"

As far as removing the round I'm sure a number of methods already described here would work, it's just a matter of what the OP feels confident they can do safely. If OP doesn't feel good about any of these ideas maybe they should call Lee customer service and see what they say. I believe Lee will remove a stuck CASE from a sizing die for a small fee if you mail it to them. Perhaps you could wrap this mess in a big wad of bubble wrap and send it to Lee to either remove the round or dispose of it safely. If they can't fix it they might offer a discount on a replacement die, it doesn't hurt to ask.
Necessity is the mother of invention. In a pinch I believe a well lubricated swaging die would work just fine. Most are sized for bullets but the concept is not earth shattering. You could try a lot of things before a roll sizer became economical. I would not be trying it with a loaded round for post sizing though
 
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