Disadvantages of unfluted cylinders?

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master blaster said:
Ruger didn`t put the warning on their guns because they wanted too.

Okay, then why did they do it?

There is no requirement for anything on a firearm other than serial number, model, caliber, and manufacturer's name and address.

See 27 CFR 478.92.
 
Try reloading in the dark or without looking

I tried it last night and timed myself. If reloading without a device I came in 5.42 seconds slower on the unflutted gun. With a speed loader I was 1.24 seconds slower. I don't own any speed strips.

So I guess I agree 9mm. If speedy reloads is a must on this gun, a lack of flutes could be significant.

Oh, I should note, my unflutted gun is a 7 shot, and the fluted is a 6, so the difference is exaggerated by that, but still significant.
 
Ruger put the warnings on their guns because of really stupid people and and a great many lawyers who were eagerly seeking "the good life". It absolutely boggles the mind how stupid and irresponsible most people are and how our court system will reward them.
 
Mastro...
I have only one revolver that's not fluted. I LOVE the appearance! :) That reason alone is enough to keep the S&W Performance Center 3" Mod. 629 in my safe. When shooting the .44 Mags it is much quicker on the 2nd shot, (and feels more comfortable to shoot too) than my S&W 329PD which is much lighter. It's my sidearm when hiking in the Canadian border woods. Yes, it weighs more, but, it's worth it to me.
 
For those that try to run one fast, I do believe the flutes aid in indexing the cylinder.

I like the looks of unfluted cylinders on some guns like serious hunting guns or custom five-shots:
IMG_2943b.jpg

Or pre-SAA Colt's and replicas:
IMG_2015b.jpg

Lots of real estate for engraving:
IMG_2324b.jpg

But then I also love and prefer a fluted cylinder with the blackpowder bevel:
IMG_8074b.jpg

IMG_0953b.jpg
 
It adds additional weight and will wear the cylinder stop and hand faster. It will also develop endshake quicker too.
 
It adds additional weight and will wear the cylinder stop and hand faster. It will also develop endshake quicker too.


I have 686s with fluted cylinders and a 686 plus that's unfluted. Guess which cylinder weighs the least. Is it the lack of flutes or the weight that are gonna wear the gun out faster? Is the difference in weight on the unfluted cylinder on my PC 629 more than the difference between the 6 180 gr .44 mag cartridges that I load in my other 629s as compared to the 6 300 grainers? Should we all shoot 180s to save our 629s from self destruction?

Me thinks some folks worry to much.
 
I don't think it amounts to a hill of beans either way.


I tend to agree Craig with the exception of those that use the flutes to index the cylinders for reloading. My guns with unfluted cylinders are range toys/hunting revolvers, so this is a non issue to me, as is the miniscule amount of extra wear the miniscule amount of extra weight might add, from continuous, exceptionally fast, Double Action shooting.
 
Here's a quick question since we're on the unfluted cylinder topic.
Does the extra steel in the unfluted cylinder allow for heavier loads to be safely used? It seems like you see them a lot in magnum revolvers and I was wondering if that was the reason.
 
No. The weak point is the bolt cut and that is no different between them. Ruger left the cylinders of the original Super Blackhawk unfluted for a wee bit of additional weight. Folks were complaining about the original flat-top .44Mag Blackhawk beating them up with factory .44Mag loads. And with good reason. I find that 1200fps is about my limit with the XR3 grip frame and loads back then were clocking 1450fps.
 
Craig C, your revolver collection is just exquisite. Boxhead, is your OMSBH converted to a Bisley frame/hammer/trigger? Something looks odd to me. It looks like a 3 screw non-fluted Bisley. Or am I hallucinating?
 
I opted for the fluted (3" 686+ TALO ) I'm very happy with it. The only complaint I have is, with 357mag loads, the trigger guard pounds my middle finger. I probably need to modify my grip somehow , it's my first and only revolver.
 
Getting your finger pounded is a common problem. Most people solve it with a different set of stocks or a Tyler grip adapter. My favorite replacement stocks (actually much better than factory) for S&Ws are made by Kim Ahrends. With a well designed set of stocks you'll have NO more pounded fingers.
To the original question, there is a tiny difference in weight between the two cylinders and to my old eyes the unfluted just looks wrong. "Thats my story and I'm sticking to it"
 
Most people solve it with a different set of stocks

Absolutely correct. If the gun is pounding any part of your hand the wrong way, in my experience that means the grip doesn't fit you right.

My instinct is to say the grip is probably a bit too small for you, and is shifting around in your hand too much with full power loads. I had the same issue with my 3" 686. So I bought a set of Nill Grips, with a closed backstrap to increase the size of the grip. The gun fits me correctly now, and when I pull the trigger, the gun roles in my hand, as it should. I still feel the recoil certainly, but it isn't painful at all.

It also helps with having the proper trigger reach, which increases my trigger control, and the accuracy of my shooting.

Proper grips FOR YOU are a huge factor in shooting a gun well.
 
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