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do i need a neck turner and/or deburring/chamfering tool(s)?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by flexible, Dec 22, 2020.

  1. flexible

    flexible Member

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    Hi everyone, flexible here. I bought my first hi-power rifle about 2 years ago (savage #12 LRP in 6.5 Creedmoor) and then a reloading setup. I've attached what i have in a PDF file.
    Had some stuff going on and am now just starting to reload.
    In addition to what i already have do i need???
    * A Sinclair neck turning tool?
    * A Deburring/chamfering tool?
    thanks
    flexible
     

    Attached Files:

  2. glockgod

    glockgod Member

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    Don't own a heck turning tool. But I don't do precision long range either. Deburring tool is a must have in my book
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2020
  3. BBarn

    BBarn Member

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    Deleted.
     
  4. maxxhavoc

    maxxhavoc Member

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    Exactly what I was going to say.
     
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  5. noylj

    noylj Member

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    No.
    However, a minimal amount of outside neck turning will improve concentricity of rifle rounds and inside reaming will remove the brass "ring" that sometimes forms at the bottom of the case neck.
    Chamfering every case lightly inside and out (to remove burrs) when you get it will make bullet seating a bit easier and prevent a bunch of brass shavings from collecting at the expander and crimp dies. Also, chamfer after trimming bottleneck cases.
     
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  6. edwardware

    edwardware Member

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    Neck turning is pretty deep. . . your rifle might be accurate enough to benefit, if your brass started with poor concentricity.

    Deburring is necessary at least every time you trim. I prefer a VLD tool, thusly. I use it for in and outside, followed by a nut driver stuffed full of steel wool to polish off any sharp spots.

    Which leads to: get a cheap 6-10x loupe to look at things up close. It'll be illuminating.
     
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  7. Bfh_auto

    Bfh_auto Member

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    I have a neck turning tool.
    I bought it when I was turning 308 into 260 rem.
    I noticed the biggest difference on junk brass. But then it raises the question of time wasted vs money saved.
    The deburring tool is mandatory.
     
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  8. FROGO207

    FROGO207 Member

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    With neck turning it is one of those point of diminishing returns things. I would start off without it and see what things end up as before spending that money. You are usually better off spending that money on better quality bullets to shrink your groups. Then if not satisfied start getting the special tools and snake oil as you see fit.
    You can make safe and accurate ammo with minimal tools but how far you want to go .........
     
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  9. rkittine

    rkittine Member

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    A factory Savage Chamber will not require neck turning, but as pointed out, turning the necks will improve accuracy, how much will depend on a lot of things. How are you going to shoot the rifle? I shoot 1,000 yard bench rest with a 6.5 (6.5x47 Lapua) and I spend a lot of time turning my brass into match rounds.

    Cleaning the primer pocket is important. Deburing tool and Chamfering is something you should have. I did not go through your list, but do you have a case trimmer? Are you using Bushing Neck / Full Length Sizing dies?

    Just went back and opened you file and it looks like you have a good starting point. Keep in mind also that if you do decide to trim you necks, you will need additional neck bushings to give you the desired neck tension.

    Bob
     
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  10. flexible

    flexible Member

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    I have a Little Crow WFT trimmer. the brass i use is either Lapua or Hornady. For the next year or so i'll only be shooting out to 300 yards but we plan on moving our of the people's Republic of NJ next year and where I'm going there are ranges over 1,000 yards.
    thanks for all the advice.
     
  11. flexible

    flexible Member

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    Oh, i have the Redding Type S Match dies - Body & Neck BUT someone said to use a full body die in addition to these!!!! does that make any sense?
     
  12. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator Staff Member

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    You should be using a full length S Type bushing die, no need for a body die.

    If you are using a neck size s die, sooner or later you’ll have chambering issues which the body die can fix.

    Use a full length bushing die, Redding, RCBS, Whidden, Harrells, etc

    Cleaning up the necks with a neck turner may help, may not. Using the better brass like Lapua, Alpha, Peterson, is a better idea IMHO.
     
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  13. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    I concur with @Walkalong - It’s a mistake to body size then neck size in separate steps. Type S full length sizing bushing die, one step, done. BTDT, you’ll have less run out by doing it in one step instead of 2.

    You do need a debur tool and a chamfer tool. A powered prep station is nice - I can’t abide the time wasted or the finger/hand fatigue of the combined hand tools.

    Neck turning most likely will not be of benefit - even in precision loads, and even for your Hornady brass. I shoot cloverleaf groups with single digit SD’s every week with Hornady brass which has never been neck turned, and multiple seasons, I’ve even skipped annealing. Lapua brass is even better. Type S FL bushing die + Sinclair Mandrel, trim/debur/chamfer, seat in a wilson die on an arbor press. I certainly wouldn’t waste time neck turning Lapua brass for any application a 6.5 creed could be appropriate - and have experienced it’s not of value even for Hornady brass.
     
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  14. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator Staff Member

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    Lapua and Alpha brass, no neck turning, five shots each, small SD numbers.

    100 yard testing from last week

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. flexible

    flexible Member

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    Hope you don't mind simple questions:
    1. i actually bought and set up 2 neck bushing dies - one for the Lapua brass & one for the Hornady brass. I know going overboard.
    2. seems like i should not use the neck dies and get a FL die?
    3. Will the 'Little Crow' WFT handle the debur/chamfer or should i get a seperate set up for debur/chamfer???? If so any recomendations on what to get?
    4. i have a Sinclair Mandrel set up already.
    Boy, this is a LOT different than loading straight wall pistol ammo!
    thanks
    flexible
     
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  16. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep.

    The WFT doesn’t chamfer/deburr.

    I use a standard tool to chamfer the outside lightly, and a VLD tool to lightly do the inside. I chuck them up in a small hobby lathe at very low speed and just touch them.
     
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  17. NMexJim

    NMexJim Member

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    I agree with the others. No need to consider neck turning with Hornady or Lapua brass. If you purchase the neck thickness sizing kit addition for the Hornady Concentricity Gauge (.0005 dial indicator and mandrels), you can measure the case neck thickness for yourself. I was personally amazed when I started measuring those cases some years back and have relegated all other brass as well as my neck turning equipment to the way-back of my case storage shelf. Actually, I might as well throw it away.

    It is nice to have experience with what goes into neck turning as it is an important part of understanding precision reloading. But, if I doan gotta, I ain't gonna.

    Nice equipment start though. Good job.
     
  18. flexible

    flexible Member

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    Ok, i now have the Redding Bushing Full Length die in 6.5 Creedmoor in my Brownells cart - any more toys i should order?
    thanks
    flexible
     
  19. berettaprofessor

    berettaprofessor Member

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    Yes...the deburr/chamfer tools. Neck-turning is probably not necessary and only in the hunt for that last tiny bit of precision.
     
  20. flexible

    flexible Member

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    In my Redding T7 i have 2 neck dies, one with a .0287 and one with a .0289 bushing - because of the difference between Hornady & Lapua brass. Did i get too crazy?
    If I didn't get too crazy should i order two Full Length bushing dies?
    I'm guessing I no longer need the body die, correct?
    maybe i can sell on E-Bay?
    thanks
    flexible
     
  21. South Prairie Jim

    South Prairie Jim Member

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    You would likely have more consistent results choosing 1brand of brass to develop your ammunition, I sure did...
     
  22. flexible

    flexible Member

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    After all this advice I'm thinking of shooting up all the factory Hornady i have and just throwing the brass away, Lapua 6.5 is still available and I'll order that.
     
  23. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    Sell the Hornady brass, don’t throw it away. Even once fired, it has value.

    Use a full length sizing die, not a neck sizing die. Certainly do not body size and THEN neck size for every loading. Neck sizing only was a fad among a misguided few which is thankfully over. You will get better consistency from one loading to the next by FL sizing every loading.

    The WFT does not chamfer and debur, it only trims. You will remain to need to debur and chamfer.
     
  24. rkittine

    rkittine Member

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    When loading on my loading bench I use the Full Length Bushing Die and only have an additional Neck only die to use on the shooting bench if I have to tune a load. For that an Arbor press works fine.

    Bob
     
  25. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator Staff Member

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    Should I tell you how many bushings I have. :D

    Edit: Be sure the get the VLD tool for the inside of the necks, outside doesn’t matter

    Ditto @Varminterror , the Hornady brass is good, just not Lapua good, tons of it used in PRS where half inch or better accuracy with small ES/SD numbers are expected
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2020
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