Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Flechette, Apr 4, 2018.
Ya lost me on this part...
Sounds exactly like my practice as well.
Same here. I do the same at the cylinder stop as well, and then slowly rotate the gun in a circular motion to allow the oil to migrate. Haven't had a problem.
The one gun I've needed to take apart and clean the dried up oil out of was my Ruger SP101. Hadn't shot it in like a year and a half and when I went to dry fire it the action was sticky.
Used Break Free for years and it worked great . Changed to Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil . Same as i use in my truck . Applied with a small paint brush . Put a couple drops in an area that's not being disassembled . Let sit over night and wipe off the excess. WD-40 to me is beyond useless . Pam cooking spray works better or olive oil in a spray bottle (although I wouldn't either in a firearm ) .Much better lubricants to chose from now a days .
Ya wd40 wouldn't be my choice either.
I might use it for very short term lube.
It'll probably dry out & get gummy.
I like straight 30 wt oil.
If I'm not mistaken that's what my press maker recommends for my own press, so I have some on hand.
Several years ago I bought a model 14 no dash S&W with a trigger reset issue. Tried to resolve it by cleaning and oiling the internals from outside the gun (i.e., without taking the cover plate off.) I eventually had to to take the gun apart to fix the problem, and when I did, I'd seen that the cleaner and oil I'd previously applied had permeated all throughout the lockwork pretty well. Based on that experience, I feel it really isn't necessary to take the cover plate off to oil the internals. Oiling a little from the hammer opening while the gun is unloaded and cocked as others have said - or maybe even taking off the grips to get even better access from the bottom - probably is sufficient. However, it might be nice to take the coverplate off at least once with used guns to see if there is any significant corrosion on any of the internal parts.
I been using 3 in 1 oil on all my guns even on the wood and metal parts and it has never hurt the wood and has worked well on metal parts been using this for well over 25 years now!
I use Fire Clean brand lubes, only the best for my guns.
Have any of you ever used 10 weight air lube oil? It's thinner than gun oil and is better able to get in those inaccessible areas.
If you are going to use grease it had better be a HIGH quality synthetic that remains fluid in cold weather and applied SPARINGLY. Nothing substitutes for proper cleaning and lubricating on some kind of a regular basis depending on usage, environment, storage etc.
The first thing I do with a new revolver (S&W) I remove the sideplate spray cleaner, let dry, spray with WD-40 Dri Lube, let evaporate and reassemble.
I am amazed at the amount of junk that comes out of a brand new S&W.
Brian Enos Slide Glide
WD40 may be the absolute WORST material deliberately applied to any firearm. And there have plenty of explanations on this forum why that is so.
But WD-40 Dry Lube isn't regular WD-40. It's a teflon lubricant that's meant not to attract dirt and dust.
That's the problem with WD-40, it dries to varnish like coating! It will displace water from many different surfaces and the turn to
a varnish like coating.
I only open the side plate when I want to work on them. Cleaning and lubing can be done without removing the side plate 99/100 times. May have to soak in solvent if gummed up.
But if you have never disassembled a revolver, by all means do so to learn how things fit together.
I like synthetic grease, but even the best quality synthetic will stiffen up a bit when it gets cold. BTDT.
First thing I do whenever I buy a new gun, I just enjoy knowing how everything works to make it go bang.
And lubing with Mobile 1 synthetic seems to work just fine.
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