Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by OrangePwrx9, Mar 8, 2020.
If that's the case, why not just remove the nipples for dry firing?
Steve499 posted: "About dry firing, I read on another forum that one could place a strip of leather which is thick enough to stop the hammer from falling on the nipple down in the hammer cut in the frame. The hammer is cushioned when it drops with no metal to metal contact at all. I tried it with my Remington and it works well."
You don't understand?
Because; Outlaw Josie Wales!
I dry fire these things enough to get a feel for trigger break and its effect on sight alignment. For regular practice, I've got Blackhawks.
Such parts have a hardened surface for wear resistance, but are still subject to deforming under impact.
Dry-firing is a bad idea, whether you remove the nipples or not.
I would be very reluctant to dry fire these with the stock factory mainsprings. I think in that case it could batter the frame. Not all frames are case hardened and even if so I still would avoid dry firing with a stock mainspring. Dry firing a gun with a hammer that touches uncapped nipples will produce some interesting mark patterns on your hammer face in addition to flattening the nipples resulting in reliability problems when live firing.
I like the idea of using something to cushion the hammer blow on the nipples. I think used caps can only be used so many times before they are flattened so much that they don't provide much cushioning. The other ideas such as aquarium tubing and leather look good. New caps also have the priming compound in them that probably provides even more cushioning.
You may very well be right and granted you most likely speak from experience. You may call me irrational but I still am not comfortable having a hammer set up with the kind of force a factory mainspring produces frequently pounding the frame of a gun that my file so easily bites into. Maybe it is over reacting but I won't frequently dry fire an Italian replica with a factory mainspring.
Another interesting thing to me is it seems the hardness of various Italian replicas made over the years (or maybe even currently?) can vary. How hard one is compared to the other continues to mystify me.
Case hardening, fake case hardening, whatever it may be it's generally a very thin layer of surface hardening and there are likely others with no surface hardening at all.
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