Dry lube vs wet lube vs rem oil Teflon wet lube, serious thread

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amc317

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I know each gun is different and each kind of action is different but let's say a semi auto.
My marlin 60 gets realllyyyyyy dirty with any wet lube and I noticed even my bolt actions get rather dirty with rem oil with teflon in it.
I want as many people opinions, stories ,ect on this.
What do you think it better?
Reliabillity
Ease of cleaning
Best lube you came across
And anything else you can add
 
I use dry lube on some of my guns but have found that it does not hold up very long.

I usually get less than 100 rounds before I start to see signs of failure.
 
This sounds like an answer. And I have a few Robar'd guns.

But here lies the rub (no pun intended), to invested that kind of money to Robar finish a gun, it is not going to be a cheap gun. Thus, I sure am not going to run my Robars dry. That just goes against my grain. I put just a thin coat of lube on my Robars.
 
I used Hornady One Shot Case lube on my rimfire semis. It goes on wet and dries. Very little fouling sticks to it.
 
Eezox

Actually, Rem Oil is considered a dry lube. Once the carrier evaporates it leaves the Teflon. So is Breakfree CLP. If you can see it after it dries you put to much on.

The absolute best, lube and rust preventative is Eezox. Midway used to sell it but no longer. You can get it from Warren Outdoors.or Amozon. It is the choice of Seecamp owners who are very particular about their little gems and lubing them.;)

Eezox is synthetic oil with TCE (solvent) in it. Once dry it is a great lube and rust preventative.

They use it to preserve weapons in museums. Much easier to use than Wax and it also lubes. A tiny bit goes a long way.

It is not snake oil, it really is excellent. All my safe queens are coated with it and I live in humid Florida. Wear gloves as the scent is hard to remove from your hands,

http://www.eezox.com/

http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html
 
It takes forever for the Rem oil to dry, so if I clean it and lube it the night before I shoot it's still wet when I do shoot the next morning. Once dry it is slick though
 
It takes forever for the Rem oil to dry, so if I clean it and lube it the night before I shoot it's still wet when I do shoot the next morning. Once dry it is slick though
You are using too much. Do you use the spay can? Those cans spray way to much at one time. A few drops on a cloth is all that's needed.

The Sig method is a good but very boring video The guy is prety dull. The Sig endorsed lube, now NRA approved is good stuff also.

Mil Com TW 25

Click lubrication, watch the others if you can stand it.:eek:

http://www.sigsauer.com/CustomerService/MaintenanceGuides.aspx

PS: Rem Oil in recent tests does not score very well.
 
Yea it's the spray bottle, I try to spray on a cloth and wipe it down though. I'm beginning to not like rem oil and am thinking about some form of dry lube. But this post is for many people not just me so that's why I suggested all stories and stuff.
 
After decades of Rem Oil use for a rust preventative on all my guns and a lube on some, I switched to Eezox. I did a home made semi-scientific rust test. Eezox by far surpassed the lubes I tested .
 
My .22 (Remington 597) and my AR both run better wet with a good oil. Yes, the oil eventually gets dirty, but that "dirt" is dissolved carbon that would otherwise have created a high-friction coating of carbon fouling on the parts. Instead, you have slippery dirty oil, which is easy enough to wipe off after every few range trips and reapply. Or just re-lubricate occasionally. The 597 also seems to like Tetra Grease, if it is reapplied often enough, and I sometimes use that generously on pistol slide rails as well.

For corrosion protection during long term storage, I'd swap the lubricant for a good corrosion preventive compound (I have had great success with Boeshield but I have also heard good things about Corrosion-X). I use Rem Oil to protect the exterior finish during short term storage, and it's good for trigger parts and such, but IMO it's not wet enough to be a good lubricant for semiautos unless they are cleaned a lot.
 
I run Break Free CLP and have run it for a long time both for lube and protection....wiped some freshly ground knife blades with it in 2007 and they have hung in the basement shop on the wall exposed since then without a spec of rust. These are unfinished carbon steel blades hung in a Midwest basement and without oil will literally rust as you watch in the Summer.

As far as lube I use it on my prized Colt Pocket Hammerless pistols.....it evaporates and leaves Teflon behind and works really well on all moving parts. I really like it because it lube while dry and not only does not get gunky with residue or carbon it keeps stuff from sticking. Once treated with BreakFree all I have to do is wipe it with a clean cloth and all the carbon and stuff comes right off.

There is probably other stuff like Remoil that is awesome as well but there's my testimonial for BreakFree CLP. It has never let me down.

VooDoo
 
I use Rem oil cloths after scrubbing and cleaning my guns. I use it to wipe up the excess carbon and soot smear that is still on the gun after bore snakes and brass scrubbing tight spots.

THEN, I oil and grease all my guns. I like a wet running gun to suspend gunk when I shoot. I have never had a problem with jamming or gumming up.

I clean everytime I shoot, I dont skimp on dry or light or thin coatings.

be safe.
 
I have gone to using TW-25 in all my weapons. Still like BreakFree CLP for cleaning and surface treament.

IE, even in my Glocks, that call for sparse drops of liquid lube at the several key points, I now use liberal application of TW-25. It stays where I put it and does not bleed or migrate.

When I first used it on my g22 (as opposed to CLP) the ejection distance of the brass doubled! Instead of tossing brass 4 or 5 ft, it was ending up 9 to 10 ft away. I attribute this to less friction, faster slide action. I bumped the spring on the guide rod up 3 lbs which brought the brass pattern back to about normal for the pistol.

Still use CLP for cleaning and as an all over wipe before putting blued guns away for storage.

I am in Arizona and therefore don't have much cold. If I lived up north, I would use a thinner lube. But here, the TW-25 is just the right weight.
 
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I have always either used rem oil or mobile 1. Since switching to Ed's Red as a cleaner, I often don't even lube after as there is enough residual oil from the content of the Ed's Red to suffice.

If these are firearms that are used more than a couple of times per year and you are not talking about long term storage, there is no rocket science involved. Almost any lube works.

On guns like your marlin where they seem to just attract dirt, you may try something like Prolix. It is a good cleaner and lube that dries. I don't usually recommend ANY of the goofy "Miracle" cleaners/lubes but Prolix has proven to be very good for my guns that tend to collect stuff like your Marlin. It is extremely expensive but lasts forever.
 
For cleaning I've found nothing cuts through the dirtiness like kano kroil. You can spray it on let it sit and just wipe carbon and fouling right off. As far as rust prevention goes it's eezox all the way. As far as bolt carriers and moving/sliding parts I use rig gun grease. It really slicks things up.
 
My .22 (Remington 597) and my AR both run better wet with a good oil. Yes, the oil eventually gets dirty, but that "dirt" is dissolved carbon that would otherwise have created a high-friction coating of carbon fouling on the parts. Instead, you have slippery dirty oil, which is easy enough to wipe off after every few range trips and reapply. Or just re-lubricate occasionally. The 597 also seems to like Tetra Grease, if it is reapplied often enough, and I sometimes use that generously on pistol slide rails as well.

For corrosion protection during long term storage, I'd swap the lubricant for a good corrosion preventive compound (I have had great success with Boeshield but I have also heard good things about Corrosion-X). I use Rem Oil to protect the exterior finish during short term storage, and it's good for trigger parts and such, but IMO it's not wet enough to be a good lubricant for semiautos unless they are cleaned a lot.


I recently purchased a 597 and noticed mine doesn't care, problem is I use it for hunting now. So in order to maintain my accueacy and poi I hardly ever clean in. If I clean it, it ends up taking a while for it group again. The mag on the other hand... No matter what I do to it it will hang up. How does yours shoot?
Mine shoots as good as 1/4inch groups at 50 down to 2-3 inch groups at 50. Hates federal bulk or any high velocity round actually.
 
For lubrication I use Slip EWL for triggers, etc, and EWL grease for slide or carrier rails. For a protectant, Eezox is the best.
 
Gun care products....

In 2015, there are now plenty of gun care products, oils, solvents, lubes, etc.
Like a public bus, if you don't want or need one, wait 10/15 min & a new one will roll by, :rolleyes: .
I've owned & used FrogLube CLP since 06/2014. I purchased the 4oz CLP type.
I'm satisfied with the results on my firearms. :D
IMO, most modern CLPs or gun care products will protect & service most firearms out there. The key is to follow the directions & use common sense, :D .
Don't leave any gun in a case for months or years on end without a regular check or cleaning. :rolleyes:
Don't use gobs of oil or lube/grease either.
Newer brands like Gunzilla, Eezox, Froglube, Rand CLP, IGG(Italian Gun Grease), Weaponshield, SEAL-1, Slip 2000, LPX/Mpro7, Hornady One-Shot will do fine.
Even "old school" stuff like Hoppes #9 & Ballistol do very well on most guns.
 
Fouling builds up either way. Dirty oil is a sign it is doing its job of keeping fouling loose and slippery vs dry and causing friction. I just don't believe in dry lube for guns. Others feel differently.
 
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