Dulling a stainless rifle on a budget, options?

[PO2Hammer]

Plan on picking up a Ruger 77/357 carbine, but the camo version is sold out.
Will want to tone down the shiny stainless finish on the barrel.

So many of the bake on finishes are shiny, even in black or dark green. Are there any reliable DIY finishes that are truly matte? Do they work on stainless?

Bead blasting would also be great. I really love Ruger's 'target gray' finish, which I think is just aggressive bead blasting.
How much have people paid for that, and were you satisfied with the results? Local welding shop or send it out to a gunsmith?
DIY? I used to do a lot of bead blasting at a factory, but never for a final finish. Do-able?

I worry about non-gun cranks blasting the muzzle/rifling or getting an uneven finish.

Hydro dipping? They have camo and solid colors, but like the epoxies, they all have a shine to them, or am I off there?

Any other ideas or your experiences would be helpful.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Flat black rattle can. Down the road you can wipe it off with lacquer thinner.

 

[rcmodel]

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11056/GunTechdetail/Removable-Camouflage-Paints

rc

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

Blast it.

Get one of those cheap media blasters with the pistol mounted reservoirs.

 

[Kp321]

Blast it with a grit, not beads. I use fine sand, in a blast cabinet. Don't breathe the dust if you don't use a cabinet. After blasting, I rub the metal down with oiled steel wool. This produces a soft smooth grey finish. Before blasting, I put an empty case in the chamber and a brass plug or bullet in the muzzle.

 

[BCRider]

But sand blasting leaves a finish which is correctly "grey" but which also grabs and holds all manner of dirt and anything else that rubs the surface. Rub a coloured cloth over it and it'll pull out that colour lint and leave the barrel looking like it has measles.

At least that's what I've seen. But then again there's all sorts of grades of sand media.

The best option is to talk to a few local media blasters. Tell them what you've got and what you want. They'll likely have samples of different things to show you.

The other option if you want camo is to get the things dipped and then top coated with a matt or flat clear coat of the same product line. It'll have to be one of the proper gun coatings or you risk the usual solvents we use softening and breaking the bond and coming off.

 

[isaiahc]

+1 on black rattle can... I've painted several guns with flat back only to wipe it off later and sell it. lacquer thinner doesn't hurt stainless but will basically wipe that paint right off. I use the high heat stuff from rust o leum. IT won't peal off when your barrel gets hot and is an ultra flat black. Also doesn't look bad until it gets scratched our you drip the wrong cleaner down the side of it. You can even do some nice camo jobs with it. cheap as hell and you can change it later if you get sick of it.

You'll never get epoxy off so it better be right the first time. IF you think you might sell it later or might change your mind. Camouflage rattle cans can give a nice camo job and finish and then be wiped off later.

 

[Kp321]

BC, read my whole process. I use very fine sand then give it a good rubdown with steel wool. This removes the "teeth" which you object to. Comes out looking like Ruger's Target Grey.

 

[Sol]

Give it the Krylon touch.

 

[jmr40]

But sand blasting leaves a finish which is correctly "grey" but which also grabs and holds all manner of dirt and anything else that rubs the surface.

I suppose it could if the finish is left too rough. I've been using bead blasted SS guns for a long time. I own quite a few rifles and handguns and have never had this issue.

I don't know how much it would cost to have it done. All of mine are from the factory except one and I bought it used, but bead blasting would look the best.

If I ever felt the need to do one I'd take it to my brother in laws body shop and do it myself with his equipment. But not everyone has that option.

Paint would work too and I'd not hesitate on a beater, but wouldn't do it on that gun.

FWIW, the SS finish as is won't hurt a thing. Lots of folks think it will spook game. Maybe, but it isn't any worse than polished blue. People have hunted successfully with both polished blue and SS for years and don't seem handicapped.

 

[dagger dog]

Get a Harbor Freight Tools, 20 dollar siphon sand blaster and a 20 pound bucket of glass beads, mask any areas you don't want dulled with Dymo labeler tape, and tape all the working surfaces with double layers of masking tape.

Then set a catch basin for the over flow so you can re-use the media. You won't get the Target Grey but it will matte the surface enough so it doesn't reflect light.

Then it will accept spray coatings of your choice if you decide to change colors.

 

[BCRider]

Kp321, I have to admit that the reason for the steel wool didn't really register the first read through. Nice trick though. I'm going to park that one away to try some day.

 

[isaiahc]

+1 on blasting as that would look the best, it's definitely permanent though.

Also... blasting isn't all that difficult it seems harder than it is. I bought a 15 gallon plastic drum off Craigslist and made a blasting tank out of it. I used it this video that I made on how to parkerize a knife http://youtu.be/V7SQeW9PtqE?t=1m5s

Make sure you wear sealed googles and a respirator cause blasting is nasty to breath and/or get in your eyes.

 

[PO2Hammer]

Thanks all. I've done enough bead blasting in the past to give it a try. Even though I was only cleaning parts for welding or sharpening, I always tried to get it even, just for fun.
I think I'll start with beads for a soft finish, and just do the barrel, masking the receiver. I can always use a more aggressive media later.
I'll post pic's when/if I work up the nerve to do it.

 

[jeepmor]

BC, read my whole process. I use very fine sand then give it a good rubdown with steel wool. This removes the "teeth" which you object to. Comes out looking like Ruger's Target Grey.

What is very fine sand? 150 grit, 220, 320 or finer? Curious if you have the number. I'd like to do this to my Ruger hunting rifle and have a hand gun sand blaster to do it with. Also, what grade of steel wool, just the 0000 ultrafine? Going rattle can would be fast and easy, but this process is one and done. I like that long term as I have no plans to part with my rifle I'd like to tone down a bit. I see the merit in the quick fix though, comes right off with ease.