Quantcast
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Duracoat experiment

Discussion in 'Non-Firearm Weapons' started by mljdeckard, Jun 5, 2013.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2006
    Messages:
    12,749
    Location:
    In a part of Utah that resembles Tattooine.
    I'm beginning to meddle with Duracoat, and looking for prototypes to try it out on before I start doing it to guns.

    This is my old Buckmaster, I bought it back in about 1991, before I first went into the army. I'm looking at adding accents and an overall ACU pattern. Either this will be a masterpiece.....or it will be a disaster and I won't post anything more to the thread. :)

    I will clean all the parts to death, brush them off with denatured alcohol, base coat with tan, and then stencil on the ACU pattern. Any advice or appeals to decency before I do it?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. gpurp

    gpurp Member

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2011
    Messages:
    115
    Location:
    DFW, Texas
    Ha! I used to drool over the Buckmaster back in the 80's when Rambo knives were so cool. At the time I couldn't fathom plunking down nearly $200 for a fancy knife and scabbard. How things have changed. Sorry, I know this was irrelevant to your question. Good luck on the experiment.
     
  3. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2006
    Messages:
    12,749
    Location:
    In a part of Utah that resembles Tattooine.
    No, it's cool, I lusted over it as a teenager, and I saw one on sale in a catalog from Atlanta Cutlery for I think $105, I dropped the last of my summer job cash on it. I used it in the field in Germany, I was a survival instructor for a summer, but now I'm in intelligence, and I really don't much like all the gear I HAVE to carry, with trauma plates, water, etc, this is about the heaviest knife on the planet. (I usually keep a Gerber Mk II now.) I took it to Iraq, but I never used it at all. I suppose I'm just reaching the point where it has more than outlived its purpose and paid for itself, I might as well have some fun with it. I got a modern ACU MOLLE sheath for it, I figured I would try to finish it to match.

    Most of the advice I have found says it's best to sandblast or at least hand-sand it first.....I'll be getting some sandpaper in the morning.
     
  4. Valkman

    Valkman Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2003
    Messages:
    6,708
    Location:
    North Las Vegas, NV
    Sandblasting would be by far the best method, but good luck and I hope it turns out. I did some knives with Brownell's Alumahyde II and they turned out pretty good and this should too. I sandblasted them and then wiped with alcohol and sprayed.
     
  5. hso

    hso Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2003
    Messages:
    48,594
    Location:
    0 hrs east of TN
    Considering what that Buckmaster probably would bring to an interested collector I'd leave it alone, sell it, and use the money to purchase some other experimental materials/items.
     
  6. highorder

    highorder Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2007
    Messages:
    4,350
    Location:
    Cincinnati
    No doubt. Collector value on those Buckmasters is high these days.
     
  7. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2006
    Messages:
    12,749
    Location:
    In a part of Utah that resembles Tattooine.
    Never, ever selling it. :)
     
  8. hso

    hso Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2003
    Messages:
    48,594
    Location:
    0 hrs east of TN
    Well then, it should look good in its new skin.
     
  9. dubbleA

    dubbleA Member

    Joined:
    May 23, 2009
    Messages:
    1,410
    Location:
    Tejas del sur
    Proper prep is everything with using Duracoat, Cerakote etc...

    For best results soak in a good degreaser. I like to use acetone. Next, let the part air dry before blasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide. Doing this will evenly etch the surface to offer a good substrate for the coating to adhere to. Blow off the media dust with dry air. Only handle item with powder free latex or nitrile gloves.

    Following these steps will help with good quality results. A reminder for Duracoat is that it usualy take about 2 weeks for it to fully cure and heavy use should be avoided til then.
     
  10. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2006
    Messages:
    12,749
    Location:
    In a part of Utah that resembles Tattooine.
    I would like to get a sandblaster, but I don't have one now. Sandpaper this time.
     
  11. hso

    hso Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2003
    Messages:
    48,594
    Location:
    0 hrs east of TN
    You could just do a drum and sand manual tumble or motorize like a rock tumbler.
     
  12. Magoo

    Magoo Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2009
    Messages:
    712
    Location:
    TN
    I think the checkered bands are going to be tough to get prepped well without blasting or something like HSO suggested.

    IF you were to mask off and leave the checkered bands as, you might have good results with just sandpaper and the like. I'm not saying it's a good look (or bad necessarily) but it might be something to consider.

    ETA: There's probably someone in your area that would media blast it for you for a pretty reasonable price. Maybe/likely even approaching the amount of money you spend on various abrasives and gizmos to try to get it prepped. Call around to local body shops and machine shops.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2013
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page