Quantcast
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Duracoat removal on a W. German P226

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by mapwd, Jan 24, 2010.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. mapwd

    mapwd Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2005
    Messages:
    92
    I recently traded my SA GI for a W. German P226 with an ugly green finish. I thought it was a ceramic or teflon coating but was informed it was Duracoat. I then looked up how to remove it and was told it was all but impossible. I could scrape it off with my thumb so I thought to my self "self, what if I used a cut up DVD to scrape this off?" I tried it out and 2 hours later this is what I had...

    004-5.jpg
    008-3.jpg
    010-1.jpg
    021-2.jpg
    026.jpg

    What would you do now? I am thinking either leave it like it is, but the thick coating over the P226 lettering is bugging me (I am anal about these things), I am also thinking of either having Sig re-coat it or sending it off to have it NP3'd at Robar. (the slide that is). I am also thinking of trying to sell or trade it for a P226 or 229 with a rail.
     
  2. <MoA

    <MoA Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2010
    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    Central WA
    I apply Dura-Coat™ and have removed old coats of it with a commercial paint stripper. The stuff is NOT bulletproof, so to speak, and will come off when immersed in the right solvent/stripper. Now, if the slide is "plastic", you'd perhaps have to be careful. Call Lauer Custom Weaponry;

    http://www.lauerweaponry.com/

    They make Dura-Coat™ and can no doubt help you out! Good luck. (BTW, a thin coat of this stuff will not obscure any details. It can be applied thinned-down, thickened up or even over a "covers all sins" thick primer Lauer makes.
     
  3. kwelz

    kwelz Member

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2004
    Messages:
    2,835
    Location:
    Henryville, IN
    Wow! Whoever applied that finish must not have known what they were doing. While Not Bulletproof as MoA said, it should not come off that easily. Hell it is just about impossible to get off with anything in my house.
     
  4. THE DARK KNIGHT

    THE DARK KNIGHT Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2009
    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    NJ
    Regular 30-minute Paint/Stain stripper from Home Depot will remove the so called invincible Duracoat/Aluma-Hyde. Don't get sucked in by the hype. Oh, and brake cleaner WRECKS Aluma-Hyde as well.
     
  5. knifestuff

    knifestuff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2005
    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    GA
    or carburetor cleaner...
     
  6. Broken Anvil

    Broken Anvil Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2009
    Messages:
    92
    Location:
    West Floida Republic
    Methyl ethyl ketone or MEK does a pretty good job. You can buy a somewhat weaker solution of it at Home Depot. Lacquer thinner would be my next bet. Paint removers can be caustic so be careful. Gloves, glasses/face shield, and a breathing filter....not a dust mask.
     
  7. Hk Dan

    Hk Dan Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2008
    Messages:
    803
    Location:
    NE Iowa
    "ZIP" paint remover will have it coming off in sheets in about 20 minutes. It's about $7 at Lowes.
     
  8. mapwd

    mapwd Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2005
    Messages:
    92
    what will zip do to the original finish underneath????
     
  9. Uncle Mike

    Uncle Mike Member

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2008
    Messages:
    3,129
    Location:
    never never land...never land here!
    Well....whoever applied THAT Duracoat did not do it correctly! I mean a CD and determination...please!
     
  10. NMGonzo

    NMGonzo Member

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Messages:
    2,691
    Location:
    Albuquerque & Santa Fe
    That pistol looks familiar.
     
  11. kwelz

    kwelz Member

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2004
    Messages:
    2,835
    Location:
    Henryville, IN
    Carb cleaner and Paint remover does not remove properly applied duracoat. I have tried it and it doesn't work. Properly applied duracoat needs to be bead blasted to remove.
     
  12. mapwd

    mapwd Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2005
    Messages:
    92
    gotta head to bed but the pictures of this gun in the "white" coming tomorrow. Simple zip strip from Wal-mart. And this stuff was on thick.
     
  13. CosmicGrooves

    CosmicGrooves Member

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Messages:
    114
    Looks awesome! I love the green and black.
     
  14. THE DARK KNIGHT

    THE DARK KNIGHT Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2009
    Messages:
    1,550
    Location:
    NJ
    Dunk it in paint remover, let it hang out in the garage for an hour and it will come off.
     
  15. mapwd

    mapwd Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2005
    Messages:
    92
    Ok, finished with it for now. I got all the Dura-coat off and it looked awesome, just how I want it to look when it is finished in NP3. So then I get all the green out of the inside of the slide and hit it with Van's Miracle Blue liquid to give it some corrosion resistance until I can get it finished properly. I can't believe that Zip-Strip and a plastic scrapper took it off so easy.

    007-3.jpg
    008-4.jpg
    017-2.jpg
    026-1.jpg
     
  16. <MoA

    <MoA Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2010
    Messages:
    18
    Location:
    Central WA
    There yah go!

    BTW, is there a forum on THR dealing with air rifles?
     
  17. mapwd

    mapwd Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2005
    Messages:
    92
    I don't have a clue, probably does somewhere on here.
     
  18. DBR

    DBR Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2002
    Messages:
    1,071
    Location:
    Vermont
    The best paint remover I have found for the usual gun type paints including powder coat, epoxy and urethane is "XXX Aircraft Paint Remover" from a company called SEM. It is safe for aluminum and I buy it at my local Bond Auto Supply.

    Especially on painted anodized aluminum and also phosphated steel blasting should be a last resort. Preserving the base metal treatment will help adhere the new finish. If blasting is required it should be 120 grit ALOX. Bead blasting doesn't really provide a very good surface profile for paint.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2010
  19. cornman

    cornman member

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2007
    Messages:
    472
    How is the trigger on those 226's? They look like they are long and HEAVY.
     
  20. mapwd

    mapwd Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2005
    Messages:
    92
    Unbelievably smooth and light! in double action it is sort of like a S&W revolver, but smoother a touch lighter, in single action it has a little take-up and then a very light crisp break. Nicer than the 1911's I have had and I have had some nice 1911 triggers. Now this is a W.German made in 1984, I hear the new ones made in the USA are not as nice.
     
  21. kwelz

    kwelz Member

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2004
    Messages:
    2,835
    Location:
    Henryville, IN
    I have tried this before and it didn't work. What type of paint remover did you use?
     
  22. Grayowl

    Grayowl Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    western North Carolina
    We remove old finishes by sand blasting with alum. oxide 120# grit and then Gun-Kote.
     
  23. Hk Dan

    Hk Dan Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2008
    Messages:
    803
    Location:
    NE Iowa
    Zip-Strip is simply amazing on Duracoat. I did a buddy's M1A stock in Marpat 2 weeks ago--well, the cheeky SOB had wiped it down with a rag that had fabric softener on it, so when we started pulling off the digital mask, the paint came off all the way down to the stock.

    Zipstrip took about 2 hours to strip the entire synthetic stock, inside and out.

    When I stripped my G35 Limited gun, the original finish was perfect underneath and the paint on the slide basically came off in one piece. It looked like somebody had popped a GLOCK balloon. <g>
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page