Eargesplitten Loudenboomer no more!

Status
Not open for further replies.

MachIVshooter

Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2005
Messages
17,931
Location
Elbert County, CO
A project that I've been meaning to do for some time, I finally got around to prototyping a husky medium bore suppressor for .375 cal, and to threading my lightweight 700 BDL SS .375 RUM.

The rifle is just over 8.5 lbs with scope and sling, has always been pretty brutal, handloads pushing 300 gr. bullets at 2,950 FPS, hammering the shoulder with recoil more than 3x that of a typical .30-06 sporter. It was also a mini howitzer in terms of noise, probably >170 dB unsuppressed.

No longer!

The new prototype, which I'm calling the Accipiter (Latin for "hawk"), is a fully welded tubeless design made entirely of hardened & tempered 422 crucible stainless and finished in SOCOM flat black moly resin. Even being all SS, I was able to get it down to 21.3 oz. Not bad for a 1.8x10" can.

IMG_3017.JPG

IMG_3019.JPG
422 stainless is a specialty ASM alloy that is stronger & harder in the treated condition than industry standard 17-4 stainless, and maintains strength at much higher temperatures, designed for use in environments up to 1,200°F. It's more difficult to machine, more difficult to heat treat, suffers more dimensional change with heat treatment and is more difficult to weld than 17-4. For this application, 17-4 would have been fine, but I happened into a couple 6' bars of 1-13/16 422 for a great price, so it made sense to use it. The welds aren't as pretty as what I get on 17-4, but they're solid.

It uses my trademark helix port taper lock brakes, this one made of 550° temper 440c stainless

IMG_3021.JPG

IMG_3022.JPG

I haven't metered it yet, but tested it at an indoor range yesterday, and though there's still more volume and pressure than my .308 with my 1.5"x9" Furtivus cans, it wasn't bothersome to the ears. I expect dBA figures around 137-138.

The challenge with this rifle was how to go about threading it; for having a .375" bore, it's awfully thin, only .648" OD at the muzzle. That's just .136" wall thickness to begin with, not a lot for a 65,000 PSI cartridge burning ~100 grains of powder. Threading 5/8-24 would leave a wall thickness of .095" at the thread root and undercut, so I chose a different approach. The brake I made to register on the muzzle, and threaded the barrel .640-28, .800" long with only a .015" deep undercut. That leaves .110" wall thickness at the thread root. While .015" doesn't seem like a lot, it's meaningful in terms of minimizing the possibility of hoop stress belling the muzzle. Additionally, the hardened 440C brake is a class 5 interference fit and semi-permanently mounted.

It's a long stick, 56" with the can on it, and a bit muzzle heavy with the extra pound and a half way out there on the end, but ~32-33 dB noise reduction and dropping recoil from a punishing 26 FPS 70+ ft.lbs. to a slower 45-ish ft.lb. push is well worth it!

IMG_3012.JPG

IMG_3013.JPG
 
A project that I've been meaning to do for some time, I finally got around to prototyping a husky medium bore suppressor for .375 cal, and to threading my lightweight 700 BDL SS .375 RUM.

The rifle is just over 8.5 lbs with scope and sling, has always been pretty brutal, handloads pushing 300 gr. bullets at 2,950 FPS, hammering the shoulder with recoil more than 3x that of a typical .30-06 sporter. It was also a mini howitzer in terms of noise, probably >170 dB unsuppressed.

So basically 2x the bullet weight of your average '06, at the same velocity, in the same weight of rifle? Sheesh.

I'm shocked you were able to cut down on the kick by ~30% though. I knew suppressors reduced recoil a bit, but not that much.
 
I'm shocked you were able to cut down on the kick by ~30% though. I knew suppressors reduced recoil a bit, but not that much.

Suppressors giving 25%-35% recoil reduction is pretty much the norm IME. A suppressed .308 feel about like an unsuppressed .243, .300 Win Mag drops to .308-ish recoil.

There should be a dead coyote with that rifle :)

Ha! A bit overkill for a 40 pound song dog, I think. It makes about 5,800 ft.lbs KE. Maybe if I could get 12 or so lined up for a shot.
 
Last edited:
You sir are...or were..a glutton for punishment. My 8 1/4lb Rugers pretty brutal with 270s at 2800ish
300s at 2950....not want!

If I could own a suppressor, I think that would be on my list. The 23" barrel on my gun dumps a pretty good blast and fireball, fairly close to the shooter. It's really the only thing I dislike about it.

The work looks excellent as usual, I kinda like being able to see the weld lines.
 
Are you allowed to use a suppressor where you hunt?

Yes. Colorado has some pretty strict hunting regs. overall, but suppressors are good to go.

My boss has a .375 RUM. He keeps trying to get me to go plinking with him. So far, Ive managed to make up excuses to avoid it.....lol.

Gotta try it at least once! (for many people who have shot mine, once was enough)
 
kinda like being able to see the weld lines.

I do too, just like them to be cleaner. I think I should have soaked it in degreaser instead of just spraying it off, believe surface contaminates contributed to the welds being less uniform than I get on 17-4. I also have less experience on 400 series stainless than 17-4, which welds like a dream

IMG_2897.JPG
 
That is a good looking setup, and pretty dang light for so much hitting power! I like the finish and the all steel construction, even if it is exotic stainless.
 
Last edited:
So basically 2x the bullet weight of your average '06, at the same velocity, in the same weight of rifle? Sheesh.

I'm shocked you were able to cut down on the kick by ~30% though. I knew suppressors reduced recoil a bit, but not that much.

The extra 21.6 oz. of weight of the suppressor helps as well.
 
I think I should have soaked it in degreaser instead of just spraying it off, believe surface contaminates contributed to the welds being less uniform than I get on 17-4.

Might try welding them in a small sandblasting cabinet purged with argon, if your rotary table can fit in there. That will help and prevent “sugar” inside too. Other than that slow down the rotary table and/or use a drag box.
 
MachIVShooter, your use of "Eargesplitten Loudenboomer" harks back to the old days & Dave Morrah in the Saturday Evening Post. Used to love to read his funny fractured Germglish stories. You can still find his hilarious book Cinderella Hasenpfeffer and Other Tales Mein Crossfader Told in used book stores (and probably Amazon)... :rofl:
 
It is always good to see a nice bit of engineering well-executed and clearly explained.

Given the arcane nature of the hunting regs in Colorado, I am sort of surprised that cans are OK. I believe that they are now legal for hunting in 34 states.

The last time I made the drive to West Texas via Limon and 287, I was sure that I heard something that sounded like a gunshot as I was driving down the Interstate. It was before you finished this, so the time frame fits ;).

But even with the reduction to only 45 ft-lbs, my shoulder hurts just to think about it.
 
One of these years I’m gonna devote my rifle money to suppressors. I’m definitely in the dislike the blast column, moreso lately as the range is ever populated with brakes.

I’m curious; guessing you crown before threading but do you run numbers on velocity ahead of time to determine loss? I ask because as you point out it is rather lengthy, so did you entertain the idea of shortening the barrel substantially?
 
What’s in it or what do the “guts” look like?

I didn't take any in-process photos with this one, but basically the same baffle profile as my other rifle cans, just bigger. However, the blast baffle is threaded into the blast chamber as well as welded, .3" long 28 pitch threads. The rear mount/blast chamber is a homogeneous piece bored out 3.5" deep, wall thickness is .045" (.070" where the threads are to maintain .045" at from the thread root) , the rest of the baffles are .040" walls, both cone & skirt.

This is what my rifle cones look like, with variations on shoulder width:

IMG_2896.JPG

IMG_2936.JPG

I've found 50° cones to work better than 60° for supersonic rifle rounds. On some I have used steeper 40° and even 30° blast baffles, as well as stepped cones and progressively shallower baffles

IMG_2787.JPG

IMG_2788.JPG

I've tried all kinds of shapes, some successful, others disappointing

IMG_2929.JPG

IMG_3023.JPG

IMG_2914.JPG

Would TIG welding it have given you better results?

It is TIG welded.

Might try welding them in a small sandblasting cabinet purged with argon, if your rotary table can fit in there. That will help and prevent “sugar” inside too. Other than that slow down the rotary table and/or use a drag box.

I don't think airborne contaminates were the issue here. I have no problem with 17-4 or any of the austenitic grades, but some of the annealed 400 series seem to retain more of the cutting oils used in machining. The way it was forming tiny pits is the same problem I've had with other dirty metals. The beads laid down better going over them again after contaminates were burned off, but I could only do so much to clean them up without getting too wide, risking burning through the thin walls.

My rotary fixture is just a 5C rotary indexer that I turn by hand, and I hold the torch. I do need to build a motorized fixture.
 
Just out of curiosity when turning the .640-28 thread did you use a UNJF style threading insert which has a controlled root radius as opposed to a dead sharp 60 deg. insert?
 
Just out of curiosity when turning the .640-28 thread did you use a UNJF style threading insert which has a controlled root radius as opposed to a dead sharp 60 deg. insert?

I use pitch specific Kennametal Top Notch inserts for external threads (NTC3-28RE KC810 for 28P), 11 IR laydowns for internal up to 40P. The 11 IR inserts are radiused for 40P at a class 3 fit, up to 48P class 2. While technically a .5mm pitch insert, I have found the radius too large for class 3 threads that fine, becomes an interference fit. Sometimes I grind laydowns for more radiused roots, but usually not on pitches 24 & finer. Internal threading I do on my big 17x60 machine, externals on gun barrels are done on my Hardinge HCT with auto threader, as I can run right up to the shoulder at 700 RPM, and also do shallow or no undercut when desired.
 
Last edited:
My rotary fixture is just a 5C rotary indexer that I turn by hand, and I hold the torch. I do need to build a motorized fixture.

I have built a few myself, it doesn’t take a lot to get good results on small parts. Your machine work looks quite well. Shouldn’t be any problem to whip up a rotary table.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top