Longbow
Member
Reloading is...
fun, relaxing and economical. It allows me to shoot more for less $$! Now, isn't that reason enough?!
fun, relaxing and economical. It allows me to shoot more for less $$! Now, isn't that reason enough?!
Economics of handloading - - Compiled Threads
- Thread starter JPoe
- Start date
- Status
TheLastBoyScout
Member
Economics of handloading
Is it worthwhile to reload .223/5.56mm? What does the cost per round reloading come out to for plain jane FMJ loads? I'm not asking ultra accurate competition ammo, I'm just wondering if it would be possible to make blasting ammo cheaper than Federal or South African milsurp. Thanks.
Is it worthwhile to reload .223/5.56mm? What does the cost per round reloading come out to for plain jane FMJ loads? I'm not asking ultra accurate competition ammo, I'm just wondering if it would be possible to make blasting ammo cheaper than Federal or South African milsurp. Thanks.
I load mine.
Here is a typical cost.
Per hundred
Primers - $1.50
Bullets - $4.50 - Bulk FMJ's are very cheapr
Powder - $4 - Depends on powder and quantity you buy it in.
So basically $10 per 100
If you dont have enough brass already then you can get it a www.brassmanbrass.com for $18 per 1000 for once fired stuff.
Here is a typical cost.
Per hundred
Primers - $1.50
Bullets - $4.50 - Bulk FMJ's are very cheapr
Powder - $4 - Depends on powder and quantity you buy it in.
So basically $10 per 100
If you dont have enough brass already then you can get it a www.brassmanbrass.com for $18 per 1000 for once fired stuff.
TheLastBoyScout
Member
OK. Guess I won't look too much further into handloading, because I can get Wolf for like $.10 a shot anyways. Thanks.
ocabj
Member
If you're only shooting .223 out of a semi-auto for purely plinking, then reloading probably isn't something you need to do. While many, including myself, choose not to use Wolf ammunition, it does provide a cheap source of ammunition for casual plinkers. In your situation, .10/round or $2 a box of 20 is a good enough deal.
There is something that I think you might be overlooking.
We are in a climate of increasingly negative thoughts and actions by the political climate in our country. Reloading yourself gives you the ability to have a supply of readily available ammo in the event that mil surp or cheap blasting ammo goes away.
I have given it a lot of thought about buying $1,000 worth of cheap blasting ammo or investing (truly an investment)in a reloading set up and loading my own....I have chosen the latter.
We are in a climate of increasingly negative thoughts and actions by the political climate in our country. Reloading yourself gives you the ability to have a supply of readily available ammo in the event that mil surp or cheap blasting ammo goes away.
I have given it a lot of thought about buying $1,000 worth of cheap blasting ammo or investing (truly an investment)in a reloading set up and loading my own....I have chosen the latter.
Frohickey
Member
Watch out for Wolf 223... they are steel-cased. And have been known to break extractors.
Steve Smith
Moderator Emeritus
Jmurman makes an excellent point.
In addition, consider reloading a valuabe trade for "Bad Days" that may come ahead.
Using it as a trade is a felony, but if what we know as the world goes upside down, it won't matter. FWIW, I don't put much stock into SHTF stuff, but I am an ordained minister, becoming a Mason, getting my Amateur Radio Liscense, and doing a few other things just to round things out. Also want to know how to brew beer. Handloading falls right into the "good thing to know" category.
In addition, consider reloading a valuabe trade for "Bad Days" that may come ahead.
Using it as a trade is a felony, but if what we know as the world goes upside down, it won't matter. FWIW, I don't put much stock into SHTF stuff, but I am an ordained minister, becoming a Mason, getting my Amateur Radio Liscense, and doing a few other things just to round things out. Also want to know how to brew beer. Handloading falls right into the "good thing to know" category.
Carlos
Member
I agree Steve, it's a good thing to know. I don't load for my AK at this point, but probably will get all the supplies I need in the very near future.
Here's a cool spreadsheet...
...that gives a pretty accurate cost assessment of reloaded ammo.
http://www.loadyourown.com/downloads/shotcost.xls
...that gives a pretty accurate cost assessment of reloaded ammo.
http://www.loadyourown.com/downloads/shotcost.xls
blades67
Member
If Wolff ammo is working for you, stay with it.
That is a good spreadsheet. If you're interested in the economics, price some components and let the spreadsheet tell you.
One other benefit of reloading .223--even if you are only moderately careful, you should be able to turn out ammo that is much more accurate than Wolf.
One other benefit of reloading .223--even if you are only moderately careful, you should be able to turn out ammo that is much more accurate than Wolf.
Steve Smith
Moderator Emeritus
That is a lousy spreadsheet in comparison to the one I've tried to show people here several times. Unfortunately, most folks are too lazy to click their mouse a few times to download it.
cslinger
Member
How Much Can You Save By Reloading .45 ACP?
Let's not take into consideration the startup costs of the equipment which would probably be somewhere in the neighborhood of $400-$800.
If a new box of 230 grain full metal jacket runs me on average $13 how much would that price be cut down if I reloaded it with 230 grain full metal jacket ball ammo.
Bullet, Primer, Powder....assuming that I am re-using a casing already?
I am trying to figure out if it is really worth reloading from a cost point not from a self satisfaction point.
While we are at it same question for .223 and .357/.38. I have pretty much determined that loading for 9mm isn't going to save anybody much money at all based on current market prices.
Thanks
Chris
Oh yeah, does everybody here who reloads still have all their fingers?
Let's not take into consideration the startup costs of the equipment which would probably be somewhere in the neighborhood of $400-$800.
If a new box of 230 grain full metal jacket runs me on average $13 how much would that price be cut down if I reloaded it with 230 grain full metal jacket ball ammo.
Bullet, Primer, Powder....assuming that I am re-using a casing already?
I am trying to figure out if it is really worth reloading from a cost point not from a self satisfaction point.
While we are at it same question for .223 and .357/.38. I have pretty much determined that loading for 9mm isn't going to save anybody much money at all based on current market prices.
Thanks
Chris
Oh yeah, does everybody here who reloads still have all their fingers?
braindead0
Member
Heck, I've got a database program that factors in 'useful' life values for things like brass and handles different cost for purchases.. ;-)
As most (all perhaps) reloaders know, you will not save money in the long run..cause you'll shoot more!
As most (all perhaps) reloaders know, you will not save money in the long run..cause you'll shoot more!
John Forsyth
Member
I still have all my fingers. I use VV N310, not the cheapest powder, Winchester primers, and West Coast plated bullets. Not counting the cost of brass, which you can get on Ebay for about $45/1000 for once fired, I am at $3.83/50 for .45ACP. I do not load the others.
It doesn't take long to recoup the cost of your reloading equipment. With that said, reloading allowed me to shoot better ammo and more of it for the same cost.
I use VV N310, not the cheapest powder, Winchester primers, and West Coast plated bullets. Not counting the cost of brass, which you can get on Ebay for about $45/1000 for once fired, I am at $3.83/50 for .45ACP. I do not load the others.It doesn't take long to recoup the cost of your reloading equipment. With that said, reloading allowed me to shoot better ammo and more of it for the same cost.
Steve Smith
Moderator Emeritus
Moved your thread here. I think I'll put a "How much can I save" thread together and make it sticky if Johnny doesn't mind. Its a very frequently asked quesiton.
BTW, a search for "save" or "savings" in this forum will drag up a lot of good info.
BTW, a search for "save" or "savings" in this forum will drag up a lot of good info.
I am pretty confident in saying that a 50% savings is a good solid rough estimate. You can do a bit better if you shop around, but I would say cutting the cost in half is a good rule of thumb for most calibers. I've paid for my equipment many times over...time to convince the wifey for new stuff
cslinger
Member
Thanks, I guess since I don't reload I never took the time to realize that there was a reloading forum.
Ooops.
Chris
Ooops.
Chris
Steve Smith
Moderator Emeritus
Chris, Trevman's 50% is probably a good average, but it is really cartridge dependent.
For example, a 20 round box of ammo that comes closest to my Highpower Rifle competition ammo costs about $20 a box. I can load the same amount and better quality for $4 if I use the caes 6 times (no problem). That's basically a 75% savings!
Another comparison, with .45 acp. Plain ol .45's cost about $10 a box of 50 at the local store. I can load with range brass and lead bullets (why use FMJ unless you're using a Glock?) purchased locally and wind up paying $3.04 for that same box of 50. AND I can make sure they exceed the power floor of the competition I'm shooting in.
I have access to a REALLY neat spreadsheet that calculates costs of everything, including your relaoding equipment. Let me know if you'd like to use it.
For example, a 20 round box of ammo that comes closest to my Highpower Rifle competition ammo costs about $20 a box. I can load the same amount and better quality for $4 if I use the caes 6 times (no problem). That's basically a 75% savings!
Another comparison, with .45 acp. Plain ol .45's cost about $10 a box of 50 at the local store. I can load with range brass and lead bullets (why use FMJ unless you're using a Glock?) purchased locally and wind up paying $3.04 for that same box of 50. AND I can make sure they exceed the power floor of the competition I'm shooting in.
I have access to a REALLY neat spreadsheet that calculates costs of everything, including your relaoding equipment. Let me know if you'd like to use it.
Zak Smith
Member
Here's a sample breakdown:
W.C. PRN 185gr: 7.0c/round
primer: 1.6c/round
powder (typical): 2.0c/round
If you assume cases are "free", because you've been collecting your factory brass for a while, that's about $106/case of 1000.
If you add in new Starline cases, and assume they'll last 20 loadings, that only adds another 0.46c/round, for about $110/case.
If you use hard-cast lead bullets instead of plated, you might be able to cut the cost of the bullets themselves in half, bringing it down to $71-80/case.
.45ACP costs about $200+tax locally here, so that's about a 35-65% savings.
With regard to the cost of reloading equipment: If all you want to do is churn out large quantities of .45ACP (or other pistol calibers), I suggest looking at the Dillon Square Deal B. It's an auto-indexing progressive reloading machine that does only pistol calibers.The price is about $275 delivered to your door, set up for whatever caliber you specify.
Beyond that, all you'd need is a set of dial calipers (to 0.001") and a good scale (balance-beam for about $35, digital for about $100). A tumbler for cleaning brass is helpful.
I think you could get all this for about $400. Reloading .45ACP, it would only take 3000-4000 rounds to break even.
Heck, I even reload 9mm, at a savings of about $40/case.
-z
W.C. PRN 185gr: 7.0c/round
primer: 1.6c/round
powder (typical): 2.0c/round
If you assume cases are "free", because you've been collecting your factory brass for a while, that's about $106/case of 1000.
If you add in new Starline cases, and assume they'll last 20 loadings, that only adds another 0.46c/round, for about $110/case.
If you use hard-cast lead bullets instead of plated, you might be able to cut the cost of the bullets themselves in half, bringing it down to $71-80/case.
.45ACP costs about $200+tax locally here, so that's about a 35-65% savings.
With regard to the cost of reloading equipment: If all you want to do is churn out large quantities of .45ACP (or other pistol calibers), I suggest looking at the Dillon Square Deal B. It's an auto-indexing progressive reloading machine that does only pistol calibers.The price is about $275 delivered to your door, set up for whatever caliber you specify.
Beyond that, all you'd need is a set of dial calipers (to 0.001") and a good scale (balance-beam for about $35, digital for about $100). A tumbler for cleaning brass is helpful.
I think you could get all this for about $400. Reloading .45ACP, it would only take 3000-4000 rounds to break even.
Heck, I even reload 9mm, at a savings of about $40/case.
-z
cslinger
Member
Actually the wife.......
Is more open to the idea then I am. I guess I just have a little bit of a fear of reloading. Normally I don't mind trying new things but I am afraid that I won't know if the brass is bad or whatever and I will cause some kind of catastrophic failure.
How many times can a decent brass casing be reloaded?
Does the caliber matter in the above question? For example .45 is a relatively low pressure round that really shouldn't put a lot of tension on the brass. How about .40 or .357 SIG or 10mm which are all very very high pressure rounds?
I would most likely want the ability to reload rifle ammo as well as I own both a .223 and 30-06. My other calibers are cheap enough to buy surplus for.
I would want the ability to load reasonably quickly. I don't want to spend a minimum on equipment to find out that it takes me 2 hours to load a box of 50. Even though I am sure this would be reasonably fun I don't want to waste that much time.
What is the best reloading manual to use? Obviously this isn't a "hey ya'll lets try this." undertaking.
Initially I would probably only want to reload .30-06 and .45 ACP as those are my big expenses. Maybe .357 which brings me to another question.
Are .357 loading dies different then .38 Special loading dies?
I want to start out with .45ACP and learn with that as I feel that there should be a little more margin for error with that caliber.....am I wrong for thinking this?
I am sorry for asking so many questions and I guess I could get off my lazy butt and use the search engine but I really have to get some work done today, as averse to some other days.
Although I am reasonably well versed in shooting and have experience shooting and cleaning a huge variety of firearms I have absolutely no experience what so ever with reloading. I have friends who do it and a family memeber who is into class III and has been doing it for years but I just never took the time to check into it. So that makes me completely ignorant on the subject.
Anyway I appreciate all of your help and knowledge. It seems to me Dillion is the way to go but there are a couple other reloader equipment providers out there also. Is Dillion the cream of the crop though?
Thanks again.
Chris
Is more open to the idea then I am. I guess I just have a little bit of a fear of reloading. Normally I don't mind trying new things but I am afraid that I won't know if the brass is bad or whatever and I will cause some kind of catastrophic failure.
How many times can a decent brass casing be reloaded?
Does the caliber matter in the above question? For example .45 is a relatively low pressure round that really shouldn't put a lot of tension on the brass. How about .40 or .357 SIG or 10mm which are all very very high pressure rounds?
I would most likely want the ability to reload rifle ammo as well as I own both a .223 and 30-06. My other calibers are cheap enough to buy surplus for.
I would want the ability to load reasonably quickly. I don't want to spend a minimum on equipment to find out that it takes me 2 hours to load a box of 50. Even though I am sure this would be reasonably fun I don't want to waste that much time.
What is the best reloading manual to use? Obviously this isn't a "hey ya'll lets try this." undertaking.
Initially I would probably only want to reload .30-06 and .45 ACP as those are my big expenses. Maybe .357 which brings me to another question.
Are .357 loading dies different then .38 Special loading dies?
I want to start out with .45ACP and learn with that as I feel that there should be a little more margin for error with that caliber.....am I wrong for thinking this?
I am sorry for asking so many questions and I guess I could get off my lazy butt and use the search engine but I really have to get some work done today, as averse to some other days.
Although I am reasonably well versed in shooting and have experience shooting and cleaning a huge variety of firearms I have absolutely no experience what so ever with reloading. I have friends who do it and a family memeber who is into class III and has been doing it for years but I just never took the time to check into it. So that makes me completely ignorant on the subject.
Anyway I appreciate all of your help and knowledge. It seems to me Dillion is the way to go but there are a couple other reloader equipment providers out there also. Is Dillion the cream of the crop though?
Thanks again.
Chris
Zak Smith
Member
Chris,
Reloading isn't hard, as long as you can read and follow directions and are careful and diligent.
I suggest buying several reloading manuals, such as Speer, Hornady, Sierra, and Lee. These will all have a "how-to" section in the front that describes how to reload, and what are the most important things to get right. Having multiple manuals on-hand is also very useful for cross-checking data.
Lots of these questions have been answered before here or on TFL.
Does caliber affect how many times brass can be reloaded? Yes, mainly as a function of pressure and how much the brass is "worked" each iteration. Most pistol brass is relatively easy to reload due to straight-wall cases. .357SIG is tapered, which complicates it somewhat - not the best caliber to start with.
All reports I've heard praise the Dillon 550 and 650. (There's a reason why most IPSC/IDPA shooters use Dillon equipment.) These two progressive machines are capable of reloading rifle ammunition. The Square-Deal B is much cheaper, but can only handle pistol calibers.
-z
Reloading isn't hard, as long as you can read and follow directions and are careful and diligent.
I suggest buying several reloading manuals, such as Speer, Hornady, Sierra, and Lee. These will all have a "how-to" section in the front that describes how to reload, and what are the most important things to get right. Having multiple manuals on-hand is also very useful for cross-checking data.
Lots of these questions have been answered before here or on TFL.
Does caliber affect how many times brass can be reloaded? Yes, mainly as a function of pressure and how much the brass is "worked" each iteration. Most pistol brass is relatively easy to reload due to straight-wall cases. .357SIG is tapered, which complicates it somewhat - not the best caliber to start with.
All reports I've heard praise the Dillon 550 and 650. (There's a reason why most IPSC/IDPA shooters use Dillon equipment.) These two progressive machines are capable of reloading rifle ammunition. The Square-Deal B is much cheaper, but can only handle pistol calibers.
-z
- Status
