Educate me please re: Ruger Mini-14's

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Speedo66

Speedo66

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I'm thinking of buying a used one, but don't know much about them. I see different models; tactical, ranch, different series, etc., but don't know the subtle or not so subtle differences, or what I should stay away from.

I understand some of the early models have a reputation for not being accurate, when did that change? And differences between blue and stainless other than just the metal type? Any benefit of wood or plastic over the other?

What price range should I expect to pay for one in nice condition? Is there a price uptick for stainless, wood stocks, or any particular model? I haven't seen it, but a local pawn shop is advertising a used ranch model, asking $660.

Thanks in advance for help from the collective wisdom here!
 
I bought and traded into and out of four of the early Minis. Weaver K-4 on each of them. 3-shot groups were commonly 1.5 MOA. First shots were commonly within an inch of point of aim. Never any mechanical problem.

Later versions are said to be better for group size beyond three shots, which is fairly irrelevant to a hunter.

Personal opinion, but they seem to me to be priced higher than need be.
 
I inherited one of the early ones from my mom. Like Art's, it also had a Weaver K-4 on it, but unlike Art's, it wouldn't hold 4.0 MOA for 3-shots. Nevertheless, I watched as our grandson took his first deer with it 5 or 6 years ago.:)
I've been thinking about getting another one, stainless with a synthetic stock, to just have around. I'm sure to get more use out of it than I do the AR I bought just before the election.:D
 
I have a mini 30. Got it used with 800 rounds for 650. Ultimately I put a barrel stabilizer, new stock, shortened barrel, bedded stock, and worked on trigger. With a leppy 2-7 it does 1.5-2 moa at 100.

Older model 14s (not 580+) have tapered varrels that tend to wiggle and throw off the accuracy. Newer models are not tapered (some, like tatical iirc, are even bull barrel). 30s don't have this problem. IIhavent shot a 14. It' been reported that the older shoot different in the action and feel "better" but I tend to think that's sugar pills. These are the biggest differences.

I bought a new stock (Hogue) made all the difference. Lots of other people go for the tacticool stocks (archangel comes to mind). Different strokes different folks.

Stainless is more expensive.

Older ranch models have flip down rear sites to accommodate a scope. My 30 is a ranch but I took the site off anyway for more clearance.

If it's older (not 580+) and you want accuracy, prepare to do some work. Otherwise expect 3-4 moa. Newer can expect 1.5-2.5 iirc. When they are cleaned up they shoot well.

I like my 30. It's a nice little carbine that has a good effective range of 150~ to knock a deer just right. (At least that's as far as it can go in my hands). I enjoy it when I shoot it.

Ultimately that wasnt what I bought it for though. If i could do it again I would have bought an M1.

I did lots of research. If you have any specific questions, fire away.
 
My first rifle was a stainless Ruger Ranch with a Weaver K-4. The older pencil barrels get hot quickly, changing POI. As the barrel got hotter, mine would walk up and to the right.

If you're using it for hunting it's not really an issue; just take the time between shots to zero with a cold barrel.

The newer models have a thicker barrel.
 
All of the Ruger Mini 14 rifles share the same action. With the exception of the Model: 5820 having a 16" barrel the rest all have 18.5" barrels. They come in a blued steel finish or a stainless steel finish with wood or synthetic stocks. As to how accurate the rifles are? Depends on who you ask I guess as some claim shotgun patterns while others claim bug hole groups at 1/2 mile. My experience over the years with several having passed through my life was 2" to 3" groups of 5 shots at the hundred yard line with good hand loads. All of the ones I had were guns I took in trade at a shop I owned, personally I never had much desire to own one but they are fun to shoot. I think my main attraction to the rifle was a result of The A Team TV series. :)

I doubt in current production rifles any one version is better than the next and it becomes a matter of which version trips your trigger as to taste in what the rifle should look like. Again, they are all the same action and reports of accuracy will vary.

Ron
 
pretty sure they're all stainless now, with the black ones coated. all are "ranch rifles" now with integral scope mounts milled into the receivers. The original ranch rifle had a flimsy flip-up rear sight, while the original mini-14 had a similar rear sight to an M14. All recent models use a different (superior) rear sight.

The very first 180 series I don't think Ruger even supports any more, but 181 and later you should be GTG. The tapered barrel/heavy barrel models of recent years are typically acceptably accurate. The thin/straight earlier barrels were pretty whippy and heated up quickly, which caused accuracy issues. Also the gas block screws were sometimes torqued unevenly which may have hurt. And they are pretty well known for being overgassed and launching brass 20 yards. Mine does. However I put an accu-strut on mine and groups went from paper plate size at 50 yards to tennis ball sized (offhand) which is good enough for me. I love minis. Yes, because of the A-team (and Romancing the Stone), and I like how the action is a combination of the M1 Carbine and M14. Get Factory magazines.
 
Around here, that would be a reasonable price to start from, and would still be okay as a final sale price, assuming the gun to be clean and in decent condition. I'd like to have one, but I'd have to stay at $600 as a top limit. That's just me.
 
I've had 2 mini-14s, both were pencil barrels. They were good guns, very reliable, not overly accurate but accurate enough for most field uses. +1 on sticking with Ruger factory mags... If I were buying a used mini I would get a newer model with the thinker barrel, not the pencil barrel. On average the thicker barrels shoot a little better IMO. Not sure of the date when Ruger made the switch to the thicker barrels, or what the serial number prefix is on the newer models, but its easy to tell the difference just by looking. Look if the barrel gets thicker or not just before the barrel clamp. (Disregard the aftermarket sight and flash hiders.)
 

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The 581 series was the first to have the "heavy" tapper barrels, which is a bit of a misnomer imo. They are still about the same as a AR light taper, the older ones being pretty much "pencil" barrels.

The 581 I had after bedding, gas reduction, and muzzle brake weight shot a pretty consistent 1.5" with good handloads. You would get the odd 1" or better groups, but they we're rare, and honestly I didn't try that hard.
Two things I noted about my rifle.
The chamber was larger than any AR I ever had. Ammo sized for the bolt on the mini to close with no obvious resistance, would lock any AR I tried it in out of battery.
Secondly the trigger is shapped to be very comfortable and natural with a sporter style pistol grip stock. Vertical grip stocks (I had the ATI) made pulling the trigger seem awkward and uncomfortable to me. This may just be my experience, tho.
 
Factory mags are important for reliability. I have 4 mags, 2 came with gun, 1 I bought (promag) and after all 3 failed over very light use I finally bought a Ruger 10 Rd. So now I have 1 working mag that's been used more than the other 3 combined.

Retorqueing the gas block is an easy gain for accuracy. Simply loosen the screws then finger tighten them until the gap on either side is approx equal. (Don't take them out! The gas bushing will fall out and roll out of sight... Or, be ready for it) Then do a quarter turn on each until it is reseated tight.
 
I'm perhaps an anomaly, I had excellent service from "John Mason"? 10rnders.
The only 20+ round mags I had we're one factory and a Crapco....you can guess my experience with that one.
 
On one of the pencil barrel mini 14's I had I installed a long, M14 style flash hider just because I liked the way it looked. After I put that flash hider on my group sizes shrunk by about half. The only thing I can figure is that it either dampened or changed the vibration of the barrel. Maybe something similar to what a barrel tuner does. Anyway, it was a pleasant and unexpected surprise. The rifle was actually a pretty good shooter after that...
 
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Speedo66 wrote:
I understand some of the early models have a reputation for not being accurate,...
Click to expand...

I bought a 181-Series Mini-14 in 1979. Next to the prototypical 180-Series, that's about as early as you are likely to find. It does have the "pencil" barrel. I have shot it regularly. Shooting off-hand, I can manage to consistently get 9 out of 10 shots (often 10 out of 10) into the circular divot on the side of a gallon milk jug at 100 yards which works out to between 3 - 4 MOA depending on the size of divot. Off of a bench, it will do better, so based on my own experience I've never understood the complaints about accuracy.

My father bought a 182-Series in 1980. It's performance is similar to that of the earlier rifle.
 
Bushpilot said:
On one of the pencil barrel mini 14's I had I installed a long, M14 style flash hider just because I liked the way it looked. After I put that flash hider on my group sizes shrunk by about half. The only thing I can figure is that it either dampened or changed the vibration of the barrel. Maybe something similar to what a barrel tuner does. Anyway, it was a pleasant and unexpected surprise. The rifle was actually a pretty good shooter after that...
Click to expand...
That's good to know, Bushpilot. As I said, I'm thinking of getting another mini, and I too like the way flash hiders look on that style of rifle. If a flash hider will improve its accuracy, that would be an added bonus.:)
 
I have a series-180 that was part the very first 1974 production run made available for public sale (serial# 180-008XX). It has the 10/22 style gold bead front sight and a fully adjustable M14 style rear sight- a feature that was quickly ended due to cost. I have ZERO complaints about accuracy.
 
If a flash hider will improve its accuracy, that would be an added bonus
Click to expand...

.308 Norma, I don't know if this works with some regularity or if mine was just a fluke. After I noticed the accuracy improvement I looked around online and found one other person who seemed to have a similar experience so maybe there is something to it. On the other hand, on the other mini I owned I had installed one of the short little flash hiders on it and it didn't seem to do a thing accuracy-wise.
 
As to magazines, I have the 5 round magazines that came with the rifles. They are the only factory magazines I own.

I have twenty 30 round third-party magazines. They have no identifying marks but have two holes in each side (one at the top, the other at the bottom). I bought some of them at a gun show in Pine Bluff, Arkansas and the rest came from CDNN Investments. I have tested all of them and they have worked fine. I keep a dozen in an ammo can for future need. I have shot about 1200 rounds through the other eight without any sort of failure.

Out of every third-party Mini-14 magazine I have tried (and I may have tried them all) these are the only third-party magazines that work and they work as well as the factory ones.
 
Varminterror said:
Education for Mini-14’s:

Remember when you were young and your grandpa warned you about cheap whiskey and loose women?

He forgot to mention Mini-14’s.
Click to expand...


Bah accuracy nut :p :D

Bushpilot said:
.308 Norma, I don't know if this works with some regularity or if mine was just a fluke. After I noticed the accuracy improvement I looked around online and found one other person who seemed to have a similar experience so maybe there is something to it. On the other hand, on the other mini I owned I had installed one of the short little flash hiders on it and it didn't seem to do a thing accuracy-wise.
Click to expand...

From my research before I bought my mini, this is a common phenomenon, but not a set in stone.
The other "trick" is to lop an inch or two off the barrel. If that just means they have bad crowns, or if shortening the barrel stiffens/changes harmonics in dunno. Mine responded to adding the short but fairly heavy flashhider.
Another trick to try is adjusting and retorquing the gas block.

But all of these things may, or maynit do anything.

VTs right, I'd liken the mini-14 to cheap booze, it will always get you there, but it wont always be enjoyable.
 
I have heard the newer ones are more accurate. They were a bargain back in the 80's when they could be had for less than $300, but they are way too expensive now for what they are IMO. Factory magazines are expensive, and the aftermarket ones often have reliability issues. The mini does not loan itself well to customization like an AR, and a new one of those can be had from a reputable manufacturer for $600, or even less. The AR is much more adaptable for different functions, even the simple task of mounting optics, and options for other easily installed accessories abound. With the purchase of an additional upper, caliber conversions are even possible. To me, a mini is a good option for someone living somewhere that the AR is not an option due to laws that make one illegal. Otherwise, no thank you- unless I could get one at an 80's price.
 
Good tips and info loonwolf.... I also think the accu-strut that 1Kperday mentioned is a good option to try for those with pencil barrels that don't shoot as well as expected.... (plus it looks kindda M14ish...lol)

Mini 14s also came with a wide variety of barrel twist rates including 1/7, 1/9 and 1/10.
By determining your rate of twist and better matching your bullet weight (length) you can improve the accuracy, as is the case with any rifle.

Chart for twist rate by serial number...

http://sunflowerammo.blogspot.com/2012/11/ruger-mini-1430-barrel-twist-rates.html
 
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