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Feeding problems with 10mm reloads... solve with crimp?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Rmeju, Nov 25, 2010.

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  1. Rmeju

    Rmeju Member

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    Hi all,

    I finally got my new 1911 this week. Fusion Scout 10mm, 5" bbl. Made about 400 180gr LSWCs (Missouri #5) and 100 180gr JHP (Hornady)

    I got out to the range yesterday, and had nothing but problems. The rounds would get hung up as they got started up the feed ramp and/or just didn't fit in the chamber.

    I had a few factory rounds, and put a mic on the mouth and noticed my reloads' mouths were a few thousandths bigger than the factory ones. I ran about 25 of my problem reloads through the crimper (Lee seating die, not FCD... which I don't have). Now they all feed perfectly.

    My manual doesn't say anything about crimping. Is it ok? I've never crimped for pistol. Having dialed in the seater for minimum crimp that feeds 100%, am I essentailly recreating the function of the FCD on my seater die?

    None of my bullets have a groove (LSWC, FMJ, or JHP). Even though I've solved the feeding problem, with this cause me other problems? Do I just have a bad seating die?

    Thanks for any help you guys can provide!
     
  2. 918v

    918v Member

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    You solved your own problem. Taper crimp to remove the bell from the case mouth. Don't try to dig the case mouth into the bullet shank. Your reloads now work. You know what to do.
     
  3. PO2Hammer

    PO2Hammer Member

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    Make sure you're using an absolute minimum amount of flare as well.
     
  4. KBintheSLC

    KBintheSLC Member

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    I run all of my 10mm reloads through the FCD... they have functioned 100% so far. A crimp is a good thing on a robust cartridge like 10mm.
     
  5. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Yes.

    All auto-pistol seater dies are designed to provide a perfect taper crimp if you adjust them correctly.

    SAAMI Max spec for the 10mm case mouth is .423".
    You need to screw the seating die down to produce this amount of taper crimp, or more probably, a little more.

    Duplicating the factory load measurement should be about just perfect.

    Auto-pistol bullets normally have no crimp cannulure or "ring" as they are taper crimped.

    A cannulure crimp or lead bullet crimp groove is only necessary for revolver bullets, as they all use a Roll crimp.

    rc
     
  6. cheygriz

    cheygriz Member

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    Simple solution.

    LEE FCD for ALL semi-auto pistol rounds.

    It works for me! :p
     
  7. mdi

    mdi Member

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    Seems the prob is the left over flare at the case mouth. I use a taper crimp die to just take out the flare. (I don't like the term "crimping" when it comes to auto ammo. Just enough "straightening out" of the case to ease feeding.). Usually there is enough "neck tension" from sizing to hold the bullet in place firmly. Also you can use your barrel for a "gage" for your reloads. Take the bbl. out of your gun and drop the reloads in the chamber. The round must freely enter the chamber so the case head/rim is flush with the barrel hood.

    FWIW. I think the Lee Factory Crimp Die for handgun ammo is a waste of time. If correctly loaded, the ammo doesn't need a post seating sizer. I admit not having tried one on my auto reloads, 'cause I don't have chambering probs with my reloads, but I use one on my .44 Mag. once. I got leading from too small bullets. LFCD swaged down lead bullets too much for good bullet/groove fit.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2010
  8. Rmeju

    Rmeju Member

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    Thank you all for taking a couple minutes out of your holiday to soothe my neurosis.

    Nothing is more frustrating than waiting the better part of a year for a new gun and then having all your rounds jam on your first trip to the range. It seems like I've got the solution figured out, and it's a simple fix that won't cause me any further problems.

    I appreciate all the replies!

    Happy holidays

    RmeJu
     
  9. GLOOB

    GLOOB Member

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    I also crimp with the seating die, but I seat/crimp it in one step. I don't see an problem doing so with an auto pistol round, as long as you're not shaving lead or otherwise overcrimping. It seems to me that all my auto pistol FCD's do is the same taper crimp, plus they slightly resize the base of my 9mm brass(?), even after full length resizing. I'm not sure what's up with that, but so far I find it unnecessary.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2010
  10. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    Adjust the seating die correctly as the OP did. Problem solved.
     
  11. rfwobbly

    rfwobbly Member

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    Your buddy RC told you right. Since you have factory rounds, take one and measure it right at the case mouth. You'll see the factory probably uses ~.421 as the crimp. So should you.
     
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