FEG Hi-Power Issue

[Kenton38]

Greetings all, for my first forum post here I am coming to you with a problem plaguing my first handgun. A fair warning first that my camera and lighting are not very good where I currently am, my pictures did not come out great.

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

I recently purchased this FEG Hi-Power clone, and while it is in pretty rough shape cosmetically, I actually really adore the worn look. Mechanically, it is in good working order, apart from one nasty issue which has basically made it unusable as a beater/carry gun, which is what I purchased it for.
I've done a little research on the gun to try and identify what is causing the problem, and through that research I've come across a few terms I was unsure of, whether they were just handgun terms I didn't know or used specifically for the BHP. That being said, excuse me if I sound ignorant while explaining this issue.

When the hammer is pulled back completely, and safety off, the trigger will do one of two things when it is pulled. If eased back gently, it will pull back into the "wall" which I understand is characteristic of BHP triggers, break crisply, the hammer will drop and a round will fire successfully. However if the hammer is pulled sharply, there is no "wall," and the trigger feels the same as when the magazine is pulled out. The hammer will not drop.

This will happen reliably, every single time.

At first I suspected that the magazine safety was somehow causing this, but after reading up on a few similar cases posted on the internet, I ruled that out. The magazine safety seems to working properly. Instead, I have come to suspect that something is wrong with the "lifter" or "lever" connected to the trigger mechanism through the trigger spring. In the case which I read about which was the most similar to mine, the OP's situation was solved when he discovered that his "lifter" was too long. I do not think that is the issue with mine, as mine rests well below frame when the trigger is not being pulled back. Is it possible that it is too short? As far as I know it is a factory install. Nowhere on Buds' website did it mention any kind of refurbishing involving new parts.

I'll post a series of pics below, maybe someone here will be able to spot something I am missing.

Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks for your time.

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

With trigger pulled.

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

My finger is around the trigger guard in these next two, the trigger is not being pulled back.

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

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• Kenton38
• Aug 15, 2017

 

[Schlegel]

The spring should press that part so it slides along the frame,not pulling away. Did you do that, or it happening when you pull the trigger? Moving away from the frame at the tip puts it out of position. Your spring looks funny to me, either it's backwards or it's got a longer leg than mine. Good news, factory parts from Browning will fit you.

 

[Kenton38]

If I'm understanding you right, in reference to its position in the third to last pic, than no I am not pulling the trigger in that picture. With the slide off, the trigger not depressed, and a magazine in the magazine well, the lever does seems to "pull" from the frame slightly.

 

[Schlegel]

Ok, then your trigger spring is actually doing something weird, could be worth putting a factory spring in, its easy to do. Maybe someone can corroborate my thoughts as i am a handy owner, but not a gunsmith.

 

[Mizar]

The trigger lever is puled to the center by the magazine safety. The problem is, that for some reason your magazine safety is not disengaging when magazine is inserted - it's lever seems to sit too far in the frame and disengaging only when the trigger is puled. And that will lead to trigger lever missing the pivot lever. Remove the magazine safety and the problem will go away.

 

[Mizar]

Double post.

 

[Kenton38]

Okay Mizar, so you are saying that the problem actually is with the magazine safety? I have tried before to take it out, simply to clean the internals of the trigger mechanism, but I have never been able to get the trigger pin that holds the safety into the mechanism out. It is extremely tight. What would be the best way to remove it without harming the frame or trigger?

Also, I've read a lot of horror stories online about people ruining their triggers doing this, where would you suggest I find the best guide to doing it correctly?

 

[Mizar]

Removing the trigger: slide the trigger spring's rear leg out of it's slot on the trigger pin - you may need to remove the leg from the trigger lever to accomplish this, tape the right side of the frame around the trigger pin so you can protect it, lay the frame on a firm surface (wood, plastic), use a captive punch on the right side of the pin to start it, then use a standard punch to finish taking the pin out. That's about it - there are numerous videos and descriptions on the net how to do it. It is a straight forward job (depending on your skills...).

Also, I've read a lot of horror stories online about people ruining their triggers doing this, where would you suggest I find the best guide to doing it correctly?

There are many ways for Bubba to ruin a perfectly fine firearm... The simple act of removing the magazine disconnect cannot ruin the trigger. If, after the removing, you have a problem with the trigger spring not returning the trigger, or failing in any other way, this is a simple indication that this spring must be replaced - magazine safety was just masking the issue.

 

[Kenton38]

Alright, thanks Mizar, I will try that as soon as I can. I will need to get a hold of a set of punches first.

There are many ways for Bubba to ruin a perfectly fine firearm... The simple act of removing the magazine disconnect cannot ruin the trigger. If, after the removing, you have a problem with the trigger spring not returning the trigger, or failing in any other way, this is a simple indication that this spring must be replaced - magazine safety was just masking the issue.

This makes a lot of sense, this was my main concern, and the main problem I was seeing people complain of after removing their magazine safeties. I was planning on going ahead and getting Wolf Springs' complete replacement package anyway, I guess I'll just go ahead and get a replacement trigger spring as well.

Thanks again for your help Mizar and Schlegel.

At risk of going totally off topic, what size and kind of punch have you used to remove your trigger pins Mizar? I have never owned a punch set before, and I would like to make the correct purchase first.

 

[Eugen]

Alright, thanks Mizar, I will try that as soon as I can. I will need to get a hold of a set of punches first.



This makes a lot of sense, this was my main concern, and the main problem I was seeing people complain of after removing their magazine safeties. I was planning on going ahead and getting Wolf Springs' complete replacement package anyway, I guess I'll just go ahead and get a replacement trigger spring as well.

Thanks again for your help Mizar and Schlegel.

At risk of going totally off topic, what size and kind of punch have you used to remove your trigger pins Mizar? I have never owned a punch set before, and I would like to make the correct purchase first.

Wolf offers good springs. I have used them for several guns. But, for your BHP also check out BH Spring Solutions. They specialize in springs, tools, etc for BHP's. They have a great website and are good to work with.

 

[Mizar]

One word of caution about Wolff springs - the standard weight (17 lbs.) recoil spring might be a little bit too long and in need of shortening a coil or two - check if the slide is coming all the way to the back and stopping at the frame's impact surface. If the spring is too long it can damage the recoil spring guide, slide stop pin, or the slide stop hole in the frame. For the mainspring - there are some gadgets sold online, that will ease installing it, but all you need is a pair of cheap pliers and a small vise. If you have trouble installing it then come back to us and we will guide you thru it.

 

[WVsig]

Use Browning OEM springs. You can get them cheap directly from Browning. Wolf is inconsistent when it comes to BHP springs. BH Springs Solutions is a company but I like their disassembly tools but they have not been in the marketplace long enough for me to trust them over factory parts.

 

[Kenton38]

Thanks Eugen, I think I may go with bhsprings, they have a very good presentation on their website, and I think $25.95 package is a better deal than Wolff's, especially taking into account what Mizar just posted.

It looks like I have a little bit of work to do. Thank you all for your advice.

 

[WVsig]

Alright, thanks Mizar, I will try that as soon as I can. I will need to get a hold of a set of punches first.



This makes a lot of sense, this was my main concern, and the main problem I was seeing people complain of after removing their magazine safeties. I was planning on going ahead and getting Wolf Springs' complete replacement package anyway, I guess I'll just go ahead and get a replacement trigger spring as well.

Thanks again for your help Mizar and Schlegel.

At risk of going totally off topic, what size and kind of punch have you used to remove your trigger pins Mizar? I have never owned a punch set before, and I would like to make the correct purchase first.

Really all you need is a 1/16" and 3/32" but a lot of people will recommend the following.

-1/16” Standard Pin Punch

-1/16” Non-Slip Roll Pin Punch

-3/32” Standard Pin Punch

-3/32” Non-Slip Roll Pin Punch

Also a 1/16" starter punch can also come in handy.

 

[Mizar]

What I posted is not a deal breaker, but only a word of caution - Wolff do make quality springs.

 

[WVsig]

What I posted is not a deal breaker, but only a word of caution - Wolff do make quality springs.

They do but.... their BHP springs have a history of being problematic. Factory springs directly from Browning are cheaper so why would one use Wolf? There have been lots of reports of Wolf BHP not being the weight they are listed as. Much of the popularity of the Wolf springs use in BHPs is from Mr. Camps website which recommended a heavier recoil spring in MKIIIs when one is shooting +P ammo. IMHO it is not needed unless you are shooting a ton of +P ammo.