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Filling holes

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Lee Davis, Apr 20, 2015.

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  1. Lee Davis

    Lee Davis Member

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    I have a vintage Savage that was drilled for a scope at some time in the past and I'm considering restoring the rifle. What is the best method of welding in the holes prior to a reblue? I know that certain welds will blue a different shade of color (such as tig)... but is that the case in every instance? I am a crack gas and mig welder, and I am leaning towards mig as the way to go, but would like to hear some comments. Gas would tend to be too hot on the metal, causing deformation of thinner pieces, whereas mig is fast and clean. But how would it blue when standard wire is used? Also, is there a way that stamped lettering can be restored after the weld?
     
  2. Longhorn 76

    Longhorn 76 Member

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    Brownell's sells a special filler rod for what you want.
     
  3. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    I know nothing about welding, but will say that a full restoration with replaced or refreshed roll marks is usually done by engraving (Unless you send a popular model to Turnbull who has a collection of proper stamps.) The collectors and speculators will tell you they can identify a restoration by looking at the logo to see if it is stamped or cut.
     
  4. Kp321

    Kp321 Member

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    +1 on Brownells welding rod. They market it as 3 1/2% nickel rod. It is 1/16" diameter and works very good. It blues exactly the same as most gun metal so if properly done it makes an invisible repair after bluing. You really need to use TIG to do the repair, oxy-aceteline would put way too much heat into the workpiece. I am afraid that any wire you would use with MIG would come out of the blue tank purple.
     
  5. 4v50 Gary

    4v50 Gary Moderator Staff Member

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    I would find a screw that fits, cut it to almost flush and peen around it to blend it.
     
  6. Zeke/PA

    Zeke/PA Member

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    I would do EXACTLY that!
    More than likely, the screw holes are 6x48's and after a peen/drawfiling effort the hole/s would be un-detectable.
    I really don't like the idea of a welding type heat on a receiver.
     
  7. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

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    There is a picture of a re-sporterized 1903 done that way.
    It has slotted plug screws, not filed smooth so it looks like dashes have replaced part of the receiver ring markings; but the screw threads themselves are almost invisible.
     
  8. rangervoss

    rangervoss Member

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    I do not tig myself, however I have another guy that does that. I would recommend the tig way and using 3.5% nickel rod. The heat you apply will not be enough to hurt the receiver and when properly done will look great. I assume you are refering to hot bluing and that will be no problem and you will not notice it. Good luck!
     
  9. shooter1niner

    shooter1niner Member

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    Not a welder but... had a good tig welder friend weld up some holes for me. Gun was an old .22 beater which had been drilled wrong a few times.

    Started out by putting a screw in the hole and welding from the outside edge of the hole to center. That method always left a little pin hole in the center. The welder thought trapped gas. Next he welded from the center out and it worked great on 4 holes.
     
  10. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    A good MIG/TIG welder can usually fill up holes without getting the receiver too hot, but filling with plug screws or plain screws and then filing off the head can work very well also.

    FWIW, plug screws will usually look OK, and are easy to put in. After all, that is what most new rifles come with.

    Jim
     
  11. Chili_pepper917

    Chili_pepper917 Member

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    I have done a little work on some revolvers recently and was surprised how little heat can cause distortion in the metal. I think I'll lean tward screws next time.
     
  12. entropy

    entropy Member

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    +1. Besides being easier, it won't ruin any collector value any more than putting them in did.
     
  13. ApacheCoTodd

    ApacheCoTodd Member

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    I like button head cap screws.

    The hole's already there. If restored value doesn't follow the expense of "restoration" - I pass.

    Getting welds, plugs and screws to match often does not exhibit failure until after the expense is incurred.

    I like to polish - refinish BHCSs for deliberate contrast. On a radiused face, I custom shape and size a washer for a more perfected look to the finished product - sometimes yet another deliberate contrasting finish. "Nuthin' to see here folks..."

    Todd.
     
  14. hoghunting

    hoghunting Member

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  15. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    He did a very nice job of rust bluing also. The only thing I am not familiar with was the template he used to restore the caliber marking.

    Jim
     
  16. carbine85

    carbine85 Member

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    I wish I had 1/2 of what he has in his shop.
     
  17. ApacheCoTodd

    ApacheCoTodd Member

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    Great link. I like that he sounds like that Disney narrator from the 60s/70s...

    "Uh oh... Ol' Blue is about to meet Mr Skunk... at the wrong end..."

    I'd never seen anyone use those templates for lettering before - clever.

    Todd.
     
  18. 788Ham

    788Ham Member

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    I've got an older Rem. rifle my Pop had, removed a scope and left the screw holes open. I bought a box of gunsmith screws form some outfit, probably Brownells, put some blue Loc Tite on them, screwed them in to level, still there, doesn't look bad either.
     
  19. rachjake

    rachjake Member

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    The template is cut on a typewriter.
     
  20. ApacheCoTodd

    ApacheCoTodd Member

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    "... typewriter."?

    Where do I get that app?

    Todd.
     
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