I'm trying to decide how to build the firing point for my range. My original plan was to build a deck with a cover, then add benches for rifles and a flat area for pistols. I'll surround the right side with mesh to catch ejected cases. Now I'm considering building a frame from railroad ties and filling the area with pea gravel. I'd still build a cover and wrap with mesh. Seems like this might be a cheaper and faster way to go. The issues are that the ground has a slope to it, so I'd need to grade it for the gravel to work. The only way to get to it is down a trail that is just wide enough for a backhoe to barely fit through. I'm looking for something that will be long lasting and relatively low maintenance.
Firing point for range
- Thread starter Armymutt
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Kingcreek
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Not enough info but if it's not easy accessible I would minimize the haul in, especially heavy stuff like gravel. If you can get a skid/track steer or a compact loader tractor or backhoe in, level as much as possible so you don't have to muscle much gravel to the site. Car port type structures are pretty cheap and light and can be assembled on site or you can use post and frame with metal roofing. Sounds like a fun project.
I'm spoiled. My pistol range is behind the barn. Rifle range is in the front yard and shotgun is in the back.
I'm spoiled. My pistol range is behind the barn. Rifle range is in the front yard and shotgun is in the back.
Wisco
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Make sure you think about the ease of policing brass on whatever surface you install. I'd take a smaller concrete slab over any size gravel. Or maybe pavers since access for concrete might be tough - just level and build like you'd build a patio with large bricks.
Also sound/acoustics - whatever structure you have shouldn't make noise or blast worse than it has to be.
Railroad ties are a great idea. If not, any treated lumber.
Also sound/acoustics - whatever structure you have shouldn't make noise or blast worse than it has to be.
Railroad ties are a great idea. If not, any treated lumber.
Pavers and concrete are both out - way too difficult to get either back in there. Gravel doesn't need to be handled carefully - just throw it in the loader bucket or on a wagon. My brass policing idea for the gravel is a sieve. Shovel brass/gravel admix in, gather brass from the top. Good thought about the acoustics considerations. Have to look into panels.
Sunray
Member
Army uses a pile of dirt covered with grass and a poncho. Or a hole in the ground framed with wood. snicker.
There are hordes of site with plans for permanent and semi-permanent shooting benches.
Concrete comes in a bag. So does sand. It's the water that might be an issue.
Gravel isn't light or easy to move either.
Railway ties are friggin' heavy things too. 80 plus pounds each. Usually 6 x 6 x 8. And the EPA says, "Creosote is a possible human carcinogen.".
Assuming your range is already in use, sound is probably not an issue.
There are hordes of site with plans for permanent and semi-permanent shooting benches.
Concrete comes in a bag. So does sand. It's the water that might be an issue.
Gravel isn't light or easy to move either.
Railway ties are friggin' heavy things too. 80 plus pounds each. Usually 6 x 6 x 8. And the EPA says, "Creosote is a possible human carcinogen.".
Assuming your range is already in use, sound is probably not an issue.
Kingcreek
Member
It's not hard to pick up brass from packed gravel. Even easier if you drop a loader of sand on top. It will get worked in until it's almost like concrete. RR ties or a treated lumber box frame would work great.
Take pics- post back.
Take pics- post back.
ChuteTheMall
Member
If you can grow grass there, mow it when you wish, try for a putting green but settle for a rough.
The grass will dampen the noise better than anything else, minimize erosion, and give you nice padding for prone shooting.
If your grass hides your brass, you can lay out temporary tarps when you shoot.
You can also rig temporary shade with a canopy, which again is quieter than shooting under a tin roof..
The grass will dampen the noise better than anything else, minimize erosion, and give you nice padding for prone shooting.
If your grass hides your brass, you can lay out temporary tarps when you shoot.
You can also rig temporary shade with a canopy, which again is quieter than shooting under a tin roof..
Snyper
Member
That's a lot of work when you could just throw down a tarp that would catch the brass.
Since it would be hard to impossible to get concrete there, your idea of a "framework" of treated lumber or railroad ties filled with small pea gravel with fine sand mixed in will pack tightly. I had the same issue and went with easy. (Don't have a tractor with a bucket yet, I have to use a trailer and shovel all the rock or dirt I bring in.) I built an 8 foot by 8 foot shooting deck. Nothing fancy, just a place to shoot off of. Sounds like you have bigger plans. Looking forward to the pics of your progress.
Jim Watson
Member
We are going to improve our club range surfaces and entry road. The excavator we are dealing with says we were originally sold rock and gravel too large for the job and he will put down a layer of "pug mix" that when wetted and rolled will be firm and stable. I saw an area like that at another range yesterday and it looked good.
Still a lot of hauling if you can't get in a dump truck.
Still a lot of hauling if you can't get in a dump truck.
CapnMac
Member
True railroad ties are actually 8" x 10" 8'--and, unused, and very spendy (and heavier than sin).
"Used" railroad ties are a gamble. They are either split or rotted, or torn up by the mechanical equipment the railroad uses to automate their replacement. (Another caveat, be careful who you buy from, "used" ties that are more than 80% are probably stolen RR property--it's become a thing).
Far better, if smaller dimension, are "landscape timbers." These are actually cores from trees peeled to make plywood laminations, which are then treated to resist rot bugs. Those treatments are typically, residential friendly (no creosote). Check locally, though, you might be able to get Western Cedar, Cypress, or Hemlock as dimensional lumber cheaper than the landscape timbers at the home center.
The traditional way to anchor these timbers is to drill a hole and hammer in rebar or all-thread. My personal preference is to not drill the timbers, but to set the bar on the outside of the timbers. That's because I can come back later and add a wedge to adjust for soil movement, timber shrinkage, etc.
I used to recommend Trex and similar synthetic decking for these applications. And the price point is still good. But, ipé, a hardwood from Brazil is actually better, and the price point is real close. Either just need some sort of joist at 16" or 19.2 (black diamond) spacing.
"Used" railroad ties are a gamble. They are either split or rotted, or torn up by the mechanical equipment the railroad uses to automate their replacement. (Another caveat, be careful who you buy from, "used" ties that are more than 80% are probably stolen RR property--it's become a thing).
Far better, if smaller dimension, are "landscape timbers." These are actually cores from trees peeled to make plywood laminations, which are then treated to resist rot bugs. Those treatments are typically, residential friendly (no creosote). Check locally, though, you might be able to get Western Cedar, Cypress, or Hemlock as dimensional lumber cheaper than the landscape timbers at the home center.
The traditional way to anchor these timbers is to drill a hole and hammer in rebar or all-thread. My personal preference is to not drill the timbers, but to set the bar on the outside of the timbers. That's because I can come back later and add a wedge to adjust for soil movement, timber shrinkage, etc.
I used to recommend Trex and similar synthetic decking for these applications. And the price point is still good. But, ipé, a hardwood from Brazil is actually better, and the price point is real close. Either just need some sort of joist at 16" or 19.2 (black diamond) spacing.
Tinpig
Member
I'd think twice before putting up a metal roof, or any roof for that matter. My range got "improved" by a corrugated roof over the firing positions, and although I wear plugs and muffs, the noise while shooting is much worse. I much preferred shooting in the open.
I don't own any firearms that can't take a little rain or snow.
Tinpig
I don't own any firearms that can't take a little rain or snow.
Tinpig
wally
Member
Around here you need some kind of roof for shade so you don't bake during our ~8 month summer season!
Fired brass laying in the sun often becomes too hot to pick up without gloves.
The roof is for shade. Only got 15 rounds off the other day because it was too hot. Hard to see the target when your eyes are full of sweat
buck460XVR
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I think your original idea of a wooden deck makes for the easiest, least expensive, least intrusive and nicest shooting platform. Post used for the foundation to level the deck, can also be used as supports for the roof. This is how I made my shooting platform. What I found for a roof covering was just sun shade material supported by rafters. It does not resonate sound back towards you like metal or plywood and was like $60. Has been on the roof for three years and still works fine. (I do remove it in the winter tho because of snow load.
I was thinking of building something like this for the top: http://myoutdoorplans.com/gazebo/lean-to-gazebo-plans/
Enough space to put in shooting benches, sitting benches for observers, and maybe even build a target shed on one end so I don't have to haul them to the range all the time. Could turn it into a hunting blind during deer season - the range will eventually double as a food plot if I can get grass to grow, whether I want it to or not.
Enough space to put in shooting benches, sitting benches for observers, and maybe even build a target shed on one end so I don't have to haul them to the range all the time. Could turn it into a hunting blind during deer season - the range will eventually double as a food plot if I can get grass to grow, whether I want it to or not.
I am in the middle of rebuilding my range....our heavy rains have basically washed it away, but hay my house got a new roof out of the deal so there is that.
I would like to see your area....and your back stop.....think I might open a thread on that.
I would like to see your area....and your back stop.....think I might open a thread on that.
You could try using the wooden latticework they sell that the home improvement stores to provide filtered shade that would not be very reflective of sound. The laticework itself is kind of flimsy, so unless taken out by hail sooner, a useful life of 5 to 7 years could be expected.
You could also build a pergola using 1x2 boards installed at an angle chosen so that it will block the sun most of the day. Again, such a structure would not be very reflective of sound. If you paint or varnish the wood, you could expect a 20 year life. You didn't say where you are located and the angle the boards must be mounted at is dependent upon your latitude, so you would need to check locally.
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