For those using Disk or Bushing type powder measures

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amlevin

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When using a powder measure like the Lee AutoDisc or a measure that uses bushings rather than a "micrometer" or screw type adjustment, how do you deall with the "a little too light" or "little too heavy" but "not just right" powder charges?

Do you just take the one that comes closest or do you have a "tweak" that you use to make it "just right"?
 
When I used a Hornady measure that used brass bushing I would modify bushings, or make my own. I modified the measure to drop automatically on my Projector. It worked very well and the bushing type measures drop consistent charges.

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For the Lee disc powder measures you can drill the hole slightly larger, trial, carefully calibrated, or buy the adjustable insert, it works well.
I use a Bonanza Bullseye pistol powder measure. It has been out of production for some time but I can fill the cavity with glue and reduce an over size drop.
Lots of ways to tailor your powder drop.
 
I try the closest actual drop weight in my Pro Auto Disk. If, after firing several of this weight, I am satisfied with that load, I continue to load it.
If I am not I go to the adjustable bar to hit the exact loading I was looking for. Oft times the disk is what I go back to.
 
Usually you can get pretty close with the discs; otherwise carefully file the hole bigger for more powder. Go slow, a small change makes a bigger difference than you think.
Pistol loadings are not so critical that .1 or .2 grains will make a lot of difference usually.
 
I have the double disk set and they were mostly close enough at first, but nowdays I almost always use the adjustable charge bar.
 
Like others, if I can't find the Auto Disk hole that I want to use for that "custom tuned" load, I will buy extra disks and drill out in-between size holes.
 
I use the $8 Lee adjustable charge bar. Works great for everything but my lightest .380 loadings. I switch over to the micro disk for those.
 
I have a couple "bushing style" powder measures and several home made dippers. I usually have spare/duplicates of bushings and find the one closest. If I need a hair more powder, I'll use a tapered hand reamer to enlarge the cavity (or sometimes a drill or a rat-tail file). To lighten up a charge I have placed a large drop of epoxy in the cavity, on the side, and when it dries remeasure and repeat if necessary. I've also glued BBs inside dippers to make charges smaller. Obviously it's easier to go bigger so be careful. Using this method I've customized a Bonanza Pistol Powder Measure bushing for 5.3 gr. of W231. I get consistant charges With W231 but other powders (Unique) is a bit more difficult...
 
Thanks all. I wondered what others did. I used to use scotch tape in the bushings for my Pacific 366 shotshell press but didn't know what others were doing. Was just curious.
 
I use a rat tail file to cut the holes in my Lee disks. If you get overzealous or want to change down the road a dab of JB Weld will fill in some of the space for a re-cut.

Greg
 
I drill the closest smaller disc holes "from the bottom" until I get the drop I want. My 3 "custom" holes are spot on and re-marked (example #47.5) so they can also be used with any powder on the chart.
 
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On the Lee disks' I have used a small file to increase bore size of the cavity - then mark it for reference when using other powders. The J.B Weld works good for filling in a cavity - if that way will get you to your desired load quicker.

The main reason I have ever modified a disk was to make sure I was making a "power factor" on every case while not going fully to a larger cavity. Really an effective technique for a reloader as long as you don't go overboard and make changes for every load just to refine a .1 or .2 charge difference.

regards,

:):):)
 
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