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Frog lube failed miserably

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by beeenbag, Nov 12, 2019.

  1. herrwalther

    herrwalther Member

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    Unless the Breakfree CLP is has a lower freezing point than military CLP, Breakfree will freeze as well. I believe right around 0 degrees if I am remembering right, and will gum up a bit warmer. I can't remember the exact cut off in temperature when we would switch from CLP to Miltec 1
     
  2. TikkaShooter

    TikkaShooter Member

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    I've had good luck with this stuff: https://www.cherrybalmz.com/54-5

    No, I don't work for them or in anyway connected to them; other than to say their product works well for me.
     
  3. DustyGmt

    DustyGmt Member

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    I won 1st place in a pinewood derby in BSA when I was 12 using powdered graphite. Good stuff. Never thought of using it in this application though....
     
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  4. tarosean

    tarosean Member

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    So this may be the wrong thread to sell my unused FrogLube bottle ????
     
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  5. DustyGmt

    DustyGmt Member

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    I would never use frog lube. I've already had my go'round with it, made my garbage can smell nice and minty for a while after I discarded it. $20 for a tube of toothpaste, No bueno.

    I too like EWG and would never use a lube or grease that didnt perform in all weather conditions. Living in the north I want something that works in any climate. I used and continue to use BreakFree CLP and swear by it, I've been also using Slip for the last couple years or so and am particularly fond of it specifically for Full Semi auto's. ; )

    I used to use Mpro 7 and it worked well, I actually liked that at the bottom of my 4 oz. Bottle of Mpro lube when I thought I had run empty I found that a good amount of "grease" had collected at the bottom and used that for awhile. Not sure if it advantageous or not for your liquid to change form like that but it didnt seem to have any adverse effect.

    I would stay away from the frog stuff, it could make for an uncomfortable moment....
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2019
  6. Boattale

    Boattale Member

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    A bolt rifle should have the thinnest of thin films of any lubricant on the moving parts. Mobil One is good, CLP is good and Rem Oil is good. After that I can't say. But with any of the ones mentioned, and using as I say, thin film, no such thing as a problem.
     
  7. kenboyles72

    kenboyles72 Member

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    A long time ago, I got caught up in the high tech gun lube scene, bought several different kinds. Used them and was not impressed by their performance, so went back to what I always used since my Army days, CLP. Used CLP exclusively and never had issues, even in cold weather. Then I found Lucas Extreme gun oil and have used that ever since. Lucas is probably the same as a good synthetic motor oil, feels the same. Once I run out of Lucas, will probably go to synthetic motor oil and refill the Lucas bottles, because they have a needle on the bottle and comes in real handy in some applications.
     
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  8. frankmako

    frankmako Member

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    you can spend lots of money for gun oil. but when it is all done, moble 1 oil is hard to beat. come to think about it, any brand and weight of motor oil works.
     
  9. HighRoadRover

    HighRoadRover Member

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    My 2 cents on cold weather -- try Mobil 28 aviation grease. It has an temperature range of -65ºF to 350ºF and is made to work in bearings, actuators, worm gears, etc., at 40,000 feet - where it is real cold.

    And it stays where you put it.

    Now... my next contribution is... .45 ACP is better than 9mm Luger. Chevy is better than Ford. Carry at least 454 Casull for Bears. DA/SA is better than Striker-fired. Steel-cased rounds will ruin your guns...
     
  10. DustyGmt

    DustyGmt Member

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    Eezox is supposed to be a rel good thin, dry lube. I think in the OP's application it'd probably be great. I have some, I put some on my bolt action and have yet to take it out into cold temps to see how it works but I know some people swear by it.

    Ballistol is pretty good stuff too....
     
  11. RetiredUSNChief

    RetiredUSNChief Member

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    I use Mobile 1 a lot.

    And it doesn't cost me anything extra either.

    Why?

    Because I just drain the dregs out of the 5 quart container whenever I'm done changing the oil in my car. Doesn't take a lot to fill the small oil bottles I use in my cleaning kits!
     
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  12. Anchorite

    Anchorite Member

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    I realize we are talking about cold weather here .... but I’ll throw out that I have some personal friends who worked for a certain JSOC group/unit just returned from Africa. They used and swore by Balistol. The same guys used motor oil when they took their leave trips to Afghanistan. For colder environments they suggested dry lubes worked well (think powdered graphite). FWIW.
     
  13. Ignition Override

    Ignition Override Member

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    Dusty Gmt:
    My question was about whether people reading this have tried "Seal One".
    This was the point--not about its lousy ancestor, about which I've read at least 30-40 first-hand bad stories.

    I spent a few hours reading about various products, wanting better lubricity than what B. CLP offers.

    Seal has been fine in all of my handguns, and they have worked as reliably as they did with Breakfree CLP and Mobil One grease.
     
  14. herrwalther

    herrwalther Member

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    Lube one would use in Africa is not the same as used in Alaska. Having been to both places. 2015 is when I got out. And the last few times I pestered the supply guy for dry weapons lube (graphite, lithium etc) none had a NSN number for him to order from. He was rather lazy so, mileage varies. As far as military applications go, getting it through official supply is a no bueno and you have to go out of pocket for dry lube. Which can be rather difficult being in remote places of the world. At one point in a certain location, we got low enough on supplies such as weapon lube we took motor oil out of the trucks to keep weapons running.
     
  15. Bill460

    Bill460 Member

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    This is a good point with gun lubricants that is often lost. Any product that claims to do a lot of things at once, usually doesn't do any of them very well. The military uses CLP because a soldier cannot carry around a cabinet full of firearms cleaning products in the field. So for that type of application CLP is a good product. But for recreational shooters and firearms enthusiasts, we do not have to limit ourselves, or our products in this manner.

    We can be afforded the luxury of using different products for different purposes. Solvents to clean, lubricants to lubricate and protect. Still, a lot of guys swear by CLP. And of all the CLP products, Break Free seems to be the most popular. While I have no use for CLP because of the reasons I have stated above, I do have and use Break Free LP. It is a very good product.

    Break Free LP leaves the "C" or "cleans" out of the equation. It is only for lubricating and protecting...... Hence "LP". This product has more viscosity than it's sister product Break Free CLP, and lubricates quite well. A lot of people don't know this stuff exists, because it's not as common as CLP, which is pretty much everywhere. I've turned a lot of CLP guys on to this stuff who have never seen it.

    While a lot of smaller gun shops and big box stores like Wal-Mart don't have it, places like Amazon and Midway USA do. I just thought I would put this out there for the CLP guys who like and use CLP as their main gun cleaning and lubricant product. I think if you try a bottle you will see an improvement in lubricity in your weapons. You can still use your trusty CLP, and use the LP for final lubrication. It will stay around longer. Especially on semi auto pistols and AR's that tend to throw off most of the thinner lubes and CLP products.

    vtopk8o.jpg
     
  16. Rule3

    Rule3 Member

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  17. gbw

    gbw Member

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    Serious question, not meant cynically:

    For you guys that use any of the specialized, and expensive, 'weapons' lube products, what do they provide that is not included in Mobil1 or other good quality motor oils? Same q for greases.

    ftr, I use M1 on nearly everything, standard graphite grease (low temp rated) where called for. A thin coat of M1 oil, any weight, is the best thing I've found for rust prevention on iron and steel alloys in deep south, non-climate controlled areas.

    Also, a thin coat of anything is infinitely better than nothing, but it is a thin coat - no matter what it is it will wear/wipe off over time.
     
  18. RetiredUSNChief

    RetiredUSNChief Member

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    You want an answer based on reality?

    "We don't know."

    We don't know because what's ACTUALLY in a given product, and in what amounts, as these are usually trade secrets.

    Therefore we cannot easily answer this question.

    In the case of motor oils and transmission fluids, we at least know there are actual engineering standards which must be met in order to have earned the "SAE" on their labels. These are based on actual engineering requirements, born of much research in the automobile industry out of necessity.

    The gun oil industry, however, has none of this in comparison. Most certainly not to the extent the automobile oil industry does, anyway.

    For example, an oil coating does a good job of inhibiting corrosion, because it prevents moisture and oxygen from coming into prolonged contact with the metals. However, this can be enhanced by the addition of corrosion inhibitors as well.

    What makes these differences in performance requirements important is critical to their application. For example, one absolutely critical function of the oil in your vehicle is its ability to maintain solids and contaminates in solution. Why? Because solids and contaminates in solution travel with the oil through the oil filter where they are removed. If they cannot be maintained in solution in the oil, then they deposit somewhere in the engine and build up.

    So all those additives in engine oil are very much important in providing lubrication, corrosion resistance, contaminate removal, cooling, etc. They are proprietary, because doing a good job is an important marketing tool and must be kept secret from competitors.

    But which ones? How much? Under what conditions are they designed to work best?

    What works best inside an internal combustion engine may not work as well on cooler gun metals which are not operating in the same chemical and temperature environment of an IC engine.

    In general, it's a good assumption that the less stringent requirements of your firearm are going to be more than adequately met by the oils/lubricants commonly used in your vehicle. So long, that is, as you apply common sense. Axle grease may not be your best choice to coat your guns and magazines, for example!

    Just don't expect, or ascribe, magical unicorn abilities to it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2019
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  19. Rule3

    Rule3 Member

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    Bottom line is most any solvent will clean a gun along with a proper bronze brush and patches, then you want to put any kind of oil on it for lubrication, which will also prevent rust,
    Take a SW revolver. There is almost NO oil needed inside for all the moving parts. On New semi auto handguns, the frame is polymer so all it needs is a few drops of oil on the slide and wipe the exterior with some oil. A qt of Mobile 1 will last a lifetime.

    Amazing that motor oil like M1 can protect an internal engine at extreme heat, 6K rpm for up to 7500 miles but we need some $12 an oz magic fluid for a gun??
     
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  20. DustyGmt

    DustyGmt Member

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    I would have to agree with this. I never gave much thought to it but the rationale is pretty sound. I know I definitely cringe every time I spend $12-$16 on a pretty small bottle of lube. I have some motor oil around my place I'm gonna try it out.....
     
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  21. roo_ster

    roo_ster Member

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    Lots of things will work. Nowadays, I use all the following, depending on teh application & conditions.

    Breakfree CLP
    A good all-in-one. I have seen it as it ages on a gun and yes, the cleaner proportion likely does evaporate. The remainder is good for months/years.

    Mobil-1 synthetic motor oil
    Will use as lube/preservative and as a cleaner in a pinch. "Detergent Motor Oil" dontcha know? Wife is OK with the odor on her HD shotgun, next to the bed. I use 5W20 and 0W20, depending on if I used leftovers from the sedan or truck.

    Mobil-1 Synthetic Tranny Oil
    Good cleaner, a bit smelly. Keep it off the wood.

    Mobil-1 Synthetic wheel bearing grease

    For those applications requiring grease like 1911 rails.

    Rem Oil
    Some of my guns like a thinner oil when it gets cold (Rem 1100, Rem 7400, Ruger 10/22 looking at you...).

    Renaissance Paste Wax
    Just started using this on some knives & gun exteriors. Impressed by the performance. Will use it more as I use firearms.

    Lemon Oil
    Not great at any task, but it sure smells nice. I like to wipe down wood stocks with it. Some guns will get it if odor is really a priority.

    WD-40
    OK for hosing down a truly foul gun, not so great for most everything else.

    3in1 Oil
    If that's all you got, you're gonna be OK, because it works.

    Odorless Mineral Spirits
    A good cleaner, but not a serious attacker of copper or lead deposits. Used in a lot of commercial parts washers.
     
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  22. Buzznrose

    Buzznrose Member

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    I hear it makes great lip balm....
     
  23. steven58

    steven58 Member

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    I’ve used Lubriplate FMO lubricants for my EDC handguns for decades. They are formulated to use in food processing machines. Wet, corrosive, high speed moving parts environment. The 350 is good to -10 F. There are others that go to -20. These lubes are also food grade so I feel more comfortable about having small amounts of it on clothing and skin 8 hrs a day every day.

    AFBE3465-9CBA-418A-B7F3-96BB3A203EE2.jpeg
     
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  24. film495

    film495 Member

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    most of my firearms, are older - 70s and earlier, pistols, rifles, shotguns, revolvers … never found one reference in any of the owners manuals about using grease on any of them so I just use gun oil.
     
  25. Dfwkid

    Dfwkid Member

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    WD-40. 'Nuff said.
     
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