Garand Op rods?

[BsChoy]

What (if any) amount of bend in an op rod is allowable? I fired some handloads in mine last week and it looks different now. The max charge I used was 47.0gr 4064 under a 168 amax...should have been fine. Again it only looks very slightly bent but still different to me.

 

[Steve in PA]

The load is a safe one. Op rods have a slight bend to them.

 

[fatelk]

When you remove the spring and move the rod and bolt back and forth the op rod shouldn't rub or bind anywhere, and yes it does have a couple bends in it naturally, it's made that way. I agree about the load, should be fine for an M1.

My M1 I got from the CMP had a slightly bent op rod and it was quite a job to get it bent back correctly. With patience I did finally get it just right.

 

[BsChoy]

thanks guys I thought so...

 

[Oohrah]

Op. rod and Gas cyclinder are two parts that are not drop ins. Must
be fitted to each rifle (Op. rod). I think there is a jig that is used to
do primary. While in the sevice, the gas cyclinder was never removed
and an armorer only worked on a faulty op rod.

 

[Onmilo]

Simple answer is if your operating rod now starts popping out of the receiver channel when you shoot the rifle you have a problem.

 

[10X]

Op rods

There is supposed to be bends in the rod.
Your load should have been just fine. I have used 48 grains of 4064 and 168 for years. This load is softer than Gi ball.

You might test the op rod. Take the barrel and receiver group out of the stock. Remove the recoil spring. With the bolt closed hold the receiver in one hand and slowly tilt the barrel up 40 degrees. The bolt should open fully from the wieght of the rod and bolt. Do the opposite with the open bolt, tilt the barrel SLOWLY down 40 degrees. The bolt should full close.
If there is binding there is a problem with the rod. No binding-good to go.

 

[MechAg94]

Don't mean to derail the thread, but if you do change out a gas cylinder, what is needed to fit it?

 

[10X]

Gas cylinder

The gas cylinder is not conceptually difficult to remove or install. Unscrew the gas plug and lock. You just need a piece of wood to put against the bayonet lug and tap the wood towards the muzzle to remove the cylinder.
The opposite is done to install a clyinder.

The tricks are the new cylinder must fit tightly on the barrel. In my opinion and in my experience the tightness can affect barrel harmonics and therefore accuracy. No way to tell with out experimentation on each individual combination. If the new cylinder is not tight you must pean the splines.
In addition the installed cylinder ideally is exactly perpendicular not twisted a degree or two left or right, taht fouls up sighting. Again peaning becomes a bit of a art.

Also the rear ring of the cylinder should not touch the barrel but be even around it, again peaning and installing is a bit of an art to make this happen too. When installed the cylinder lock should have a bit of positive pressure on the cylinder when in the lock is in its final position.

Hope the above makes some sense.

Unless you really need to change a cylinder or tighten a loose one it is better to leave it alone.