Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by Idaho shooter, Jan 19, 2016.
I have been using this product and like it. Any idea how the ingredients compare with borebutter?
I just googled it and found nothing but this thread.
What do you mean by "seasoning" ?
It is supposed to season the barrel, somewhat like a cast iron frying pan. I can tell you it does help reduce fouling, but does not eliminate it.
No such thing as seasoning a barrel, unless its cast iron.
This is one of those "things" in muzzle loader mystery.
You know and I know that there is no such thing as "seasoning a barrel" but I followed the Bore Butter instructions and my 50 never shot better.
Treat/Preserve a BP barrel like any other barrel.
- The one difference is to clean w/ warm soapy water instead of solvent.
- Dry patch the same way.
- Oil w/ CLP and/or full synthetic the same way.
- Run a dry patch before shooting again (the same way).
CLP and most other petroleum oils will gum up something fierce with black powder residue.
Use an organic based oil, or mineral oil based products instead.
It would actually take a lot of petroleum in order for it to gum up. I used to use a lot of Barricade, rem oil, and some others with no ill affect.
#1 Crappiest thing I ever used for rust protection was bore butter.
The CLP/full Synth is used to protect the barrel after you have cleaned it w/ warm soapy water.
At that point a BP weapon is no different from any other firearm for preservation,
Run a dry patch through the barrel/flash channel before firing again.
There is NO effect on BP shooting at that point.
I only use what they had back in the day, and have never had any rust or gumming problems. Triple distilled sperm whale oil. Have to use it sparingly though due to it's cost a $35. a liquid ounce and getting harder to find.
I normally get flamed for this so I don't post it very often. For the last 20+ years I have used water soluble oil to clean my gun and lube my patches. This is the same stuff sold at Dixie Gunworks labeled Moose Milk. Birchwood Casey used to sell it also.
This what we used in my dads machine shop for tool coolant. We called it goats milk. Most of what we machined was cast iron pulleys and parts for aftermarket car ac units. Let me tell you nothing rust faster than bare cast iron.
This oil is mixed with water at a 20-1 ratio. I use a 12-1 ratio on my guns. I bought one gallon of Wynns water soluble oil over 20 years ago and still have 3/4 of a gallon. I gave some it to BP shooting buddies.
Its all I clean my guns with. I haven't taken off a barrel or poured hot water down a barrel since I don't know when. I soak my precut patches with before starting to shoot and I never stop to clean the bore using patched round balls. And I can shoot a 100 rounds without stopping if I want.
If you are near the Ft Worth Tx area and want to stop by I will let you run a patch through every gun I own and you won't find a speck of rust. I will even give you some to try. And it has never gummed up with BP. The water evaporates and leaves a thin film of oil in the bore.
Now you can flame away and tell me it won't work. But I know better from my own personal experience.
I actually use 1:7 "moosemilk" when I don't have hot water/soap available.
Works OK -- just takes [a bit] more time to get "white glove" clean.
1 part water to 7 parts WSO?
Or you got that backwards?
For years our group used a form of moose milk for cleaning between shots, for patch liberals, for cleanup after shooting and for soaking felt or fiber wads in when shooting trap or skeet. Of course a full cleanup was done after getting home.
To sixteen oz of water we added one oz soluble oil, one oz Lestoil, and two oz peroxide. Worked great. I put it in a little plastic squeeze bottle for wetting cleaning patches and patched round balls. We would fill a peanut butter jar with fiber wads and then fill with the solvent. Pick out a wad, squeeze it out and put it down over your card wad, add shot and a milk carton disc and you are shooting shot out of a pretty clean bore for each shot.
Parts (added to 8 water):
1 Murphy's Oil Soap
1 Ballistol (or WSO/NAPA Cutting Oil)
⅓ Simple Green (4 character)
I won't flame you because I use machine shop water soluble oil too. I works great. You can dilute it in differing amounts to do different things. Or use it straight for other things. I also use it with black powder cartridge guns.
Got a buddy that just shot a bear.
Might have to bug him for the bear oil.
Supposedly, it's a fine patch and general lube and preservatant.
You can also go by the local printer and ask for a little "Blanket Wash". Made by several companies, it is a water misible oil that will make a nice Moose Milk solution.
If the printer happens to be in a good mood it's cheap too.
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