Gerber MK2 problems

FL-NC

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I acquired a gerber MK2 survival knife from the mid-80's. Not being an expert on knives, I don't know Conan the barbarian's riddle of steel. No idea what the blade on this thing is made out of, and even if I did know, I wouldn't know what it meant. I just can't get this thing sharp. I don't know if it is the steel, or the blade design, but this knife is about as useful as a letter opener. I think I know how to sharpen a knife, since I am able to get knives like my various SOG, Case, Kershaw, and Buck knives as sharp as I want. I have tried different grits of Arky stones, Smith pull-through sharpeners, and even some diamond shrpeners. No luck, at all. So if there is a "trick" to getting these MK2's sharp, what is it, and what kind of sharpener do I need to make this happen?
 
The problem is that because of the blade geometry, to get it reasonably sharp, the secondary bevel has to be either very small or non-existent. If it has been sharpened conventionally, getting it back in good shape is probably going to require significant metal removal. Here are some representations of the blade cross section.

SharpeningProblem.jpg

Each of the 4 "facets" is going to have to be ground from the centerline down to the edge, keeping the original grind angle until a burr forms. I would do it with a good quality coarse grit (300-400) diamond stone, working very slowly and carefully to keep the angle right for each stroke. A pro could do it with power tools, but there's a good chance of ruining the knife. Then repeat the process three more times to get all the facets right.
 
Thanks for the info, all. I think this thing is going into my son's collection of knives he collects but doesn't use. I'm going to stick with what the ones I have that I can sharpen easily.
 
Originally, they were tool steel and chrome plated. Grinding down the flats will break through that plating.

If it’s a 440 steel one. No problem.
 
I had never heard that the originals were plated.
Should be 440C if it's from the 80's.
Most of the 1980s production MkIIs were 440C, but there was a 5000 item run in 1986 that was made from L6, and 200 knives made in 1989 out of 440A steel.

The one I have is a 20th anniversary edition made in 1986 (XX prefix serial number) with the original "Cat's Tongue" gray handle, L6 blade steel, no serrations, and the 5 degree blade offset. I have one of the knives from the run that didn't have the 20th Anniversary electro-etching and came with the Cordura sheath instead of the brown leather.


Anyway, this style of knife/grind isn't really made for utility use where frequent sharpening might be required. That grind style (particularly if the blade is plated) means you leave it alone and use it only for what it was intended for (poking deep holes in meat) so you don't have to go to the considerable effort that proper sharpening requires when it dulls.
 
I have an old Kabar that was chromed from the factory. Apparently it wasn't unheard of for knife companies to do such things.
 
My MK II is from the early 70's and the flimsy brown leather sheath shows it.
Like Flatrock, I like the dagger style too and also have a MK I as well as a couple of the Guardians from the early 80's.
 
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Hey, I was part of the spec 4 Mafia at one point! 😆
E-4ever!

I'm not sure frankly that a great edge could ever be put on a dagger with a slim blade and a double edge. The primary bevel will always be short and steep no matter what you do with the secondary.
 
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