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German Luger ?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Doug Kennedy, Nov 25, 2007.

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  1. Doug Kennedy

    Doug Kennedy Member

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    Jul 13, 2007
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    Location:
    RFD Illinois
    Anyone have and info on where I can look to see the value of a German Luger that I have? Thanks for any help
     
  2. dmftoy1

    dmftoy1 Member

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    Lexington, IL
    Hey Neighbor. :)

    I've had good luck here: http://luger.gunboards.com/

    There are some good reference books available too but the best one's are fairly expensive. My brother just got a Krieghoff war capture (with all the papers) from his father-in-law.

    Have a good one,
    Dave
     
  3. XavierBreath

    XavierBreath Member

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    Location:
    Louisiana
    The Luger Forum has some of the foremost luger men in the world prowling it's pages.

    The problem with a Luger is value is based on originality........ie all matching serials over about 26 individual parts, the amount of strawing left, and then the gun's condition. Take some high resolution digital photos and place them on photobucket or a similar site, and go pop up a post. They can at least give you information if they can't give you the value.

    WaltherP1and1910LUGERsmallfile.gif
     
  4. Doug Kennedy

    Doug Kennedy Member

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2007
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    Location:
    RFD Illinois
    Thanks for the great help. I'll have lots of reading to do. I would like to sell it to finance other projects.
     
  5. alamo

    alamo Member

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    Dec 27, 2002
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    Location:
    austin, texas
    There are lots of parts, not all externally visible that must match for a Luger to be considered "all matching". From the Gunboards Luger forum FAQ:

    20) What parts must be numbered on a Luger?

    The following parts should have serial numbers on them:

    Frame, full serial number with suffix

    Under barrel, full serial number with or without suffix

    Left side of the receiver, full serial number without suffix.

    All the following parts should have the last two numerals stamped on them:

    Firing pin
    Extractor
    Sear bar
    Breechblock
    Front toggle link
    Rear toggle link
    Locking bolt (takedown lever)
    Side plate (with a few exceptions through the years, see comments on side plate)
    Trigger
    Safety lever
    Safety bar
    Hold-open latch
    Grips (inside)

    Note, that the rear toggle pin was not serial-numbered until 1932.
    There were two "styles" of serial number marking, Commercial style and Military style. In commercial style some of the numbers, notably the side-plate and locking bolt, were stamped underneath in a way which did not affect the surface look of the gun--military serial numbers were stamped on the visible surfaces. If your mismatched parts are stamped highly visibly they likely come from military guns.
     
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