Glock Advice.... Glocksters sound off

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TheProf

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1. I field strip and clean my Glocks after every range trip.

2. I think that I am confident enough (after watching enough youtube videos) to detail strip the slide assembly.

3. I fire around 500 rounds per month and use factory loads only.


Question 1: What do you all use to clean the slide assembly parts? Would Hoppes #9 be sufficient?

Question 2: If I wipe down all the visible parts of the lower assembly, would that be sufficient...so long as I religiously do #1 and #2?

Question 3: At what point would it be necessary to do a detail clean of the lower half?
 
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1: All I use is dry gun patches and a dry nylon brush, for 95% of the slide parts. The only place that gets solvent is the infrequent striker channel and FP safety-hole overhaul. I don't put any oil or solvent anywhere else but the slide rails. All it will do is attract more powder.

2. Yes. Powder can cake up in there all it wants. There's very little contact between the moving parts in a Glock, and the only metal-metal contact in the action is between Tenifer and/or nickel plated surfaces, which are self-lubricating. The key areas of friction will hardly be affected by powder residue. A quick wipe down with a dry gunpatch in forceps every once in awhile is all I do.

CLP: outside of barrel, slide rails, triggerbar/connector interface (just a touch).

3. In all seriousness, never. It's purely cosmetic, unless you're getting sand in there. If you want to keep your trigger super crisp, then pull out the innards and wipe off the triggerbar and connector when you feel the urge. If you dry fire a DA pistol a thousand times, you'll feel it when the gun starts to get dry, needing some oil around the trigger, trigger bar, sear, and hammer. A Glock will never reach that point unless you get grit or rocks in there.
 
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non chlorinated brake cleaner and CLP in the proper places
 
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I clean after every range session because:

1) My 21SF is my house gun and my 26 is my carry gun.

2) It's so friggin easy.

I use CLP on a q-tip to clean the slide, then wipe it completely dry. I also use CLP to wet-patch the barrel, then brush, then wet-patch, then dry patch. I then wipe the exterior of the barrel completely dry. I use only dry patches/q-tips on the frame, along with compressed air if needed. once everything is clean and wiped dry, I use Slip2000 EWL to lightly lube all the necessary parts. The 21 round count is 1,400 and the 26 is at 600, both 100% malfunction free.
 
Wow, you really give yours lots of love! Hell, the beauty of the Glock is you really don't have to do squat to keep it running. I usually drop 500+ rounds through mine before I get excited about cleaning it. The Glock is the AK of the handgun world, but more accurate in comparison. Break clean in quantity has been sufficient to keep mine operational after countless thousands of rounds, just spray her down real good, paying close attention to the small nooks, crannies, and channels/holes.
 
I use Breakfree CLP for all the cleaning chores, then wipe it dry. A tiny drop of Tetra grease on the slide rails is all the extra lube it gets.
 
Use rubbing alcohol in the firing pin channel and on the internal slide parts. Do not use any lubricant. There is really nothing in the frame that needs detailed cleaning.
 
I do what Hikock45 does on YouTube during his clean (search "Glock clean") Big fan of Ballistol.
 
I clean my duty 22 with Simple Green. I just field strip it,, spray some SG on, brush here and there with a tooth brush, run a brush thru it a time or two, blast with brake cleaner, oil in the right spots, and reassemble. I spend less than 10 minutes on it....Been doing it this way for 10 years. It gets an annual inspection from an armorer. He never gigs me for having a dirty weapon.
 
My whole process takes me 10 minutes per pistol. I don't do it because I "need" to, I do it because I take pride in the weapons. Hell it can't hurt...


(and for the record, I fire 100-500 rounds per range session)
 
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I usually just "friction-clean" mine at the range when gun is still warm. Gunk comes off with hard rub of wash cloth real easy. Use a thinner cloth to clean rails and smaller parts + bore-snake or wire brush for barrel and lube lightly with oil. Takes 10 min.

Every 300-400 rounds, I use regular cleaning oil and brush.

Never anything but field a strip for breakdowns. Suppose I should do a complete one sometime but I tend to lose small metal items routinely.

Sometime I will or pay a friend who's a Glock Armorer. But I don't worry too much about anything with a Glock. Kind of the Camry of handguns.
 
Reaper....(and anyone else who uses rubbing alcohol)...

Any danger that the rubbing alcohol will affect the small plastic parts (cups) of the firing pin?

I'm assuming that you guys wet the cloth with rubbing alcohol and then just wipe down the parts.....correct?

Do you just wait until the alcohol evaporates and dries?
 
No harm at all. That is how Glock recommends cleaning the slide parts. I use cotton tips/rag and just let it evaporate.
 
M-Pro 7 to clean the slide and FP-10 lube. I never have gone beyond a field strip. There is nothing in the lower that needs lubricating that can'r be reached with the slide off (trigger bar-connector interface).

I have detail stripped my slide once in two years because I wanted to see how it was done. It wasn't dirty. I have about 2k rounds through the gun

:D
 
The two Glocks I've shot the most are a G19 and 34. Both have +/- 4000 rounds. For a while I shot the 19 at a slow pace (about 100rds a month) and cleaned it after every session. I detail stripped the slide right at 4k rounds; there was some junk in it by then (mostly around the extractor), but it was still perfectly functional. The slide is easy as pie and you can get it apart in well under 20 seconds.

The 34 I shoot at a quicker pace of about 400 rounds a month; roughly 100 per week. I clean it once a month or so. I have yet to detail the slide. I'll do it whenever the striker is no longer free floating in there, or at maybe 10k rounds, whichever comes first.

I've never taken apart the lower on either of them. I clean with Hoppes, and lube the outside of the barrel with CLP.
 
I blast mine down with CLP spray. Clean the barrel with the Glock brush and an Otis patch.

Then I wipe her clean with a patch and rag.

I detail strip the frame every 2-3000. It's super easy. I detail strip and clean out the slide every 500 or less. I want my firing pin to rattle clean and free. You can usually just blast the frame down with CLP, but the slide needs to be cleaned a bit more often. And Glocks are way too easy, so why not?

I overlube. But I never have had much lint or dust build up. Detail strips are fun to me, and really helps me track parts wear and dirt build up before its a problem on all my guns.
 
Question 1: What do you all use to clean the slide assembly parts? Would Hoppes #9 be sufficient?

Question 2: If I wipe down all the visible parts of the lower assembly, would that be sufficient...so long as I religiously do #1 and #2?

Question 3: At what point would it be necessary to do a detail clean of the lower half?
Click to expand...

1/ I use rem oil, hoppes dries the metal out a little too much for that IMO.

2/ It's worked for me. Although sometimes I take an air compressor and blow it out once in a blue moon.

3/ It probably will never be necessary. But, eventually curiosity and a desire for perfection will get the best of you and you'll end up doing it. Luckily there's not that many parts and it's pretty obvious where they go.
 
I had a gun blued recently. The gunsmith recommended Ballistol to use as a wipe down for at least 3 weeks to stop the rusting. After 6 weeks of daily polishing with a white paper towel and Ballistol, I was still getting brown off. It never seemed to slow. At that point, I switched to Rem Oil and it was done in about 3 days....Of course, I might have rubbed on it and got rust off for 6 weeks with Rem Oil.
 
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