Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by george burns, Jan 1, 2015.
I too, have an airweight bodyguard that I love, but if at all possible, the SP101 comes with me instead.
I carry an S&W 327 TRR8 with five inch barrel IWB with no issues so long as the stocks do not extend much past the bottom of the frame. My Ruger Alaskan's grips were far too big for appendix carry and GP100 grips were better. My GP100 with 4" barrel in a Milt Sparks Versa Max 2 needs some boot grips since the rubber grips chafe and are at least 3/4" too long. I am only 5' 6" tall and am thin. Anyone can do this with determination, the correct holster with forward cant, a good gun belt, and a good concealing garment.
I recommend the Ruger GP100 over a current S&W. I have seen too many bad S&W builds at the gun store recently. They had stupid problems such as terrible triggers, bad finish, mill marks/incorrect cuts and canted barrels. THE LOCK stinks too, but that can be mitigated without sending the gun back. Some people are wary of S&W's two piece barrel system, but my 327 has had no trouble. If you choose a new S&W, go over it carefully using the "Revolver Checkout" document.
Well from a fellow Washingtonian, and Soldier to Marine; your assessment of the Taurus® Mdl 605 is dead, bang, accurate. I thoroughly enjoy mine. I did replace the factory grips with a set of Pachmayr® Compac-Presentation™ grips and they really mitigate the recoil!
That made me dizzy
You can see the sights, the trigger can be tuned beautifully, and they can be very accurate.
I once had to shoot mine indoors, in the dark, with no ear protection and full house loads. I didn't like that much, but it worked and worked and never failed.
A great balance of size and weight and ergonomics. If you're not intending to shoot it to death with full house loads all the time, that is a real sweetheart.
In order to make 357 a carry caliber, I make it a reloader's caliber and tune the ammo for the gun. To each his own, but I never shoot 38 in my 357s, but I can load a wide range using 357 cases.
After all that, is it really a ".357 Magnum". I would like to think of the caliber as having the level I, II, III load concept applied to it, similarly as applied to the potentially powerful 45 Colt.
I carry one of two autoloaders most of the time, but when I'm walking in viper country, it's the SP101 loaded with scattershot. And, on my weak side, two cylinders' worth of full-house .357 just in case something bigger wants me dead that day.
My only complaint is how heavy the trigger is; I still prefer it to any revolver I've tried in anything like its size class.
I found an action job to offer a great improvement. Cost me $125.
Yep,same here. Mine came with a hammer spring so tight I could barely cock it a dozen times with my left hand. After looking into it a little, it was recommended ( right here,in fact) that I order a Wolff replacement spring kit and do the job myself.
After consulting a You-tube video, I dove right in, over the hoots from my brother that I was "screwing up big-time, and gonna be taking a box full of parts to my gunsmith".
Well, 10 minutes later I was done, and the SP101 was fixed up nicely (as in night-and-day difference) . The kits are inexpensive and easily found (MidwayUSA, Brownells,etc.) and the job couldn't possibly be any simpler.
It is heavy enough to soak up full house loads even in DAO fire. Putting all five rounds on a paper plate at any reasonable combat distance is really pretty easy.
Love this weapon...........
The LS model comes from the factory with a bead blasted finish, a great trigger job and what I consider to be very pretty but very useless small rosewood grips. My SD revolvers all wear Crimson Trace hard rubber grips.
I use Buffalo Bore's "tactical" short-barrel .357 load, a 158-gr. SWCJHP that gets 1075 fps and about 480 ft. lbs. of energy out of the 3" M65.
And those 66's are have exquisite actions also. So smooth functioning, and clean looking lines. I polished one of them, it now looks like nickel, every time I look at the other one, I almost wish I hadn't though.
For my "snubbie 357 option" I picked a S&W 640 Pro Series 5 shot J frame.
It is an all stainless 5 shot chambered in 357 Magnum with a 2 1/8" barrel. The sights from the factory are tritium 3-dots which give a much better sight picture than any other J frame I've ever owned or shot. The cylinder comes machined to accept ammo clipped in 5 shot moon clips for faster reloads. However, you can still load, shoot, and eject single rounds just like any other revolver.
Because it is chambered in 357 you can opt for the milder 38 Special rounds for practice or for carry if you are sensitive to recoil. The all steel construction is heavier than the aluminum framed Airweights which helps to absorb recoil making 357s manageable and 38s a pleasure.
The Pro Series can be hard to find while the basic 640 can be easier to locate. The 640 is the same gun without the sight and moon clip upgrade. The basic 640's front sight blade is removable and aftermarket tritium front blades are available.
Just a couple of options...
Many people say that the .357 magnum is "wasted" out of a short barrel, and is too loud and has too much muzzle flash.........I say NO WAY!
The 357 magnum is far superior to .38+P, even from a short barrel.
I'll take a 125gr bullet in 357 mag, from a short barrel, ANY DAY over most other defensive calibers.
That seems subjective, or is there some data on which you're basing that evaluation.
Data is available all over the place, and varies according to barrel length, bullet weight, powder type, etc...
In general, the .357 averages around 250-400 feet per second better than the .38+P, even from a short barrel.
The ft lbs of energy generated from a .357 is Significantly more than the .38+P load!
Muzzle flash and generated sound effect different people in different ways.
My argument is simply that a .357 magnum is superior to a .38+P for "stopping power", regardless of barrel length.
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