Gun Cleaning: Field vs Detail Stripping

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i have never detail stripped any of the guns that i own. the only one that might be close to detailed stripped is the ar but i don't even consider that detailed stripped. i have never had any need or desire to do it. i would like to learn on my xd's, and for the 1911 platform, but for me too date i have hd zero issues with standard field stripping and maintance.
 
I've only ever detail stripped my Mosin-Nagant which isn't saying much as it's easy to do. Field stripping the AK is about halfway there as most of the parts are accessible even while still attached to the receiver. For pistols though I've never gone farther than field stripping, I've removed the extractor from my P9R but all that takes is knocking out a pin with a punch, and I wouldn't dare to take apart my Colt Trooper without an armourers manual and a gunsmith nearby.
 
I don't take my guns any further apart than the manufacturer recommends, typically. After a few range sessions with my XDs though, I'll oil them heavily and blow the oil out with my air compressor. 90 PSI does a pretty good job of getting rid of dirt and debris.
 
The best thing you can have to clean your guns is a mini compressor,
Harbor Frieght has one for $50.00, turn the air down to around 20lbs, field strip the piece down ,spray with Rem oil and blow dry. There will still be enough oil on the gun for function.
This is how the Police range does it in my area.
Floydster
 
I'd love to detail strip my Sig, but the manual doesn't even mention it.
Depending on the SIG you need "special tools" and a couple of replacement pins (a couple of the 229 retaining pins are supposed to be "one time use").

I tend to detail strip/disassemble all of my firearms when I first get them and give everything a good inspection/cleanup/lube. After that It's generally just field strip unless there is some indication of an issue.

The best thing you can have to clean your guns is a mini compressor,
Harbor Frieght has one for $50.00, turn the air down to around 20lbs, field strip the piece down ,spray with Rem oil and blow dry.

I've been known to do the same. Remember, wear eye protection if you do this!
 
I was wondering when someone was going to mention air. I use an array of different sized paint brushes with natural bristles and aerosol oils to clean everything...then blast out with the air hose. If you're worried about the moisture in the air tank, you can purchase a condensation trap/regulator like they use in paint shops. I may get flamed for this one...WD-40 makes a good cleaning solvent as long as you blow it all out of the gun, then go back and spray down with something like RemOil...I always use it on the first cleaning when I purchase a used gun or surplus gun...use it to "dry-clean" my racing bicycle too rather than washing with water every time. I don't particularly like WD as an oil, but it's a great cleaning solvent. I don't see how modern man gets by without compressed air...I guess growing up in a shop, I have found thousands of uses for it.
 
hankdatank1362 said:
Oh, and JesseL, what kind of HK handgun is that? Looks like some kind of fixed-barrel blowback. I don't see a squeeze cocker... I'm clueless. I recall reading once about an HK fixed barrel pstol that was great to put a suppressor on, but it was discontinued... is that it?

That's an H&K P9s45. I believe it uses a roller delayed blowback mechanism, like the cz52 and H&K rifles. It could be the one you read about, I'm not sure. I do know it has a shocking number of little parts.
 
OK -
[FLAME: ON]
It has been MANY years since I have used WD40 for anything. These days I use aero-kroil, or something similar.

The problem which I experienced having to repair prematurely worn parts was WD40 left a coating [I know, they say no silicon] on parts which, upon drying, would NOT hold a coating of oil. This coating was a lubricant, but the short side of it was it did NOT last until the next maintanance. And oil wouldn't stick to take up the slack in performance. This is why I do not use or own WD40.

I could probably find 100 techs with the same experiences and predjudices.

Maybe it is not as it was.

[FLAME:OFF]

Berk Walker
 
The grade of care depends on the weather and guns used..

After a day at the range with snow and rain I clean and oil my guns more meticulous than a sunny dry day. My Mauser and Tikka:s get more attention than my 10/22 and 1300 Defender.

My Mauser M/96 is in mint condition, so I keep a army cleaning kit in my car so I can start to clean it while it´s still warm.. Barrel, bolt, and a thin film of oil on all metal surfaces. Some stock oil when she gets home...

It´s important not to be too serious with detail stripping/cleaning.

An investigation in the Swedish army showed that many of the modified FN-FNC:s used in troop education was so worn by intense cleaning that they had lost their factory rust protecting treatment, so that they would be unfit for field use... :cuss:

"Do it again - Do it right..."
 
Hank that looks to me like a P9s.

I am with Tauruowner and sig228, I am confident I could get my guns more apart then filed stripped, but I don't think I could get them back together.
 
An investigation in the Swedish army showed that many of the modified FN-FNC:s used in troop education was so worn by intense cleaning that they had lost their factory rust protecting treatment, so that they would be unfit for field use

This is one of the top two reasons I don't detail strip to clean. It simply isn't needed, the firearm is designed to be cleaned properly with a field strip. Because of this parts and pieces are not designed to be constantly taken apart and put back together. This actually causes more wear on the parts because they aren't designed for it.
 
There is generally no need to detail strip a handgun or rifle. I have some guns 25-30 years and they have never been detailed stripped and are running fine.

I have had guns totally immersed in salt water, rinsed them with fresh water, WD40 to get rid of the water, and then Brake Kleen to get rid of the WD40. No problems.

Blackpowder guns may need to be stripped more often.
 
JesseL, I am a camera repairman and I will not completely stip my Ruger 22/45 down to clean it, nor did I ever strip my Marlin model 60. I use electronic parts cleaner (CRC brand) and simply give the firearm a good spray/flush cleaning and then spray some light weight lube into the mechanism. I then follow up with a compressed air blow job. The reason I use CRC brand electronic parts cleaner is that it doesn't contain M.E.K. or acetone which can damage plastic/polycarbonate parts.
 
HOW do you detail strip any gun?

I've got S&W revolvers as well as M&P pistols.
I've got Kahr.
I've got 1911's from Springfield, Bear, Smith and Colt.

Every single user manual clearly states, "Do NOT strip past the point we describe", and then shows field-stripping only.

I have yet to see an instruction anywhere that shows how to tear a pistol down further than that level.

Smith Revolvers don't even mention removing the grips, much less dealing with what you will find if you do.

PLEASE -- tell me where you get the information from which you are able to DECIDE if you want to detail strip or not?

Fud
 
I have yet to see an instruction anywhere that shows how to tear a pistol down further than that level.

Things have changed. I have a manual for a Ruger .44 Carbine that shows how to take the trigger group off, remove the bolt & magazine tube, etc. after recommending that it isn't normally necessary for cleaning.

I have a manual for a 70 Series Colt Commander (OK, it technically isn't a 70 series as that only applies to the spring finger bushing Govt model, but it's from that era...) which also shows details for full disassembly, after saying its not necessary to go past removing the slide.

However, I also have a manual for an 80 Series Colt Commander which definitely does not go beyond removing the slide.

The lawyers have gotten into everything. It used to be your decision to take the gun apart and then take it to a gunsmith in a cardboard box...now it's assumed you have no business doing that.
 
mostly i feild strip. but, when things seem a little dirtier than i like, and i do not have time to do a full disassembly, i use "GUN SCRUBBER". IT IS AN ARESOL CAN OF PRESSURIZED CLEANING SOLVENT THAT IS SAFE FOR USE ON FIREARMS, THEN I BLOW DRY IT WITH COMPRESSED AIR. FOLLOW THAT UP WITH A SPRAYDOWN OF "REM OIL" AGAIN FOLLOWED BY LESS PRESSURE COMPRESSED AIR. AND I HAVE A VERY CLEAN GUN. ONCE A YEAR. I SCHEDULE A TEAR DOWN OF ALL BUT MY LEVER GUNS. SOMEDAY, I SHOULD TAKE THEM TO A GUNSMITH FOR A THOUROUGH CLEANING.
 
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