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Gun Lubricants?

Discussion in 'Shooting Gear and Storage' started by G11354, Feb 23, 2017.

  1. hdwhit
    • Contributing Member

    hdwhit Member

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    The manufacturer of every gun I own puts in it's owner's manual that the gun is to be lubricated with a "Light Machine Oil" or "High Quality Firearms Oil". I did not make the choice to follow this recommendation for economic reasons although using a Light Machine Oil is a very economical proposition.

    I also note that I did use motor oil on certain inaccessible locations since I believed the motor oil would not be as liable to migrate as the light machine oil.

    As to "informal test results", I have the longest term "test" that I have seen referenced on this site. In 1993, I routinely cleaned and oiled my guns and put them in the gun safe. Later that year, I was stricken my a neurological disease that handicapped me. Between 1993 and 2014, the safe was opened on rare occasion and various guns shown to other people before being returned to the safe without the guns being wiped down or the lubricant being refreshed. In 2014, after successful treatment, I was able to return to my guns. They had suffered no rust, corrosion, or other deterioration in the intervening 21 years.

    So, I didn't use the gun-specific products John and others touted, like BreakFree CLP. I didn't consult with unnamed experts. Instead, I used the "Light Machine Oil" that the manufacturers (who presumably have some expertise in caring for their own product) said to use and it worked perfectly well far longer than I would have imagined it would.

    Finally, the belief that the motor oil would not migrate was borne out. Even though the rifles whose barrels were libricated with motor oil were stored in a muzzle-up position, the oil did not run down the barrel onto the wood or plastic furniture even after 21 years.
     
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  2. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    I see, you weren't just talking about Kroil which the link lead to, but you should have explained yourself more clearly if you wanted to convince anyone. Blanket statements tend to get rejected.

    Yes, Kano makes some good products, but you still need to put forth substantiating arguments if you want to declare "case closed" Or should I say "closing arguments". :)
     
  3. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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  4. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Member

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    I saw the citation in post #19 because I read all of post #19. I also saw that in post #20 you state that the lubricants you are using are recommended by the manufacturer--because I read all of post #20 too.
    My post #14 was "Last edited: Feb 25, 2017". Your post #19 was made on "Mar 20 2017". I promise you that what I said in February was most certainly NOT premised on anything you said in March.
    First of all, my comments on this thread, have been primarily focused on the attempt to justify substitute products economically. If that's not where you're coming from, then it would make the most sense not to pay too much attention to comments that are primarily focused in that direction.

    Second, it doesn't make sense for you to continue to claim that you followed the recommendations in the owners manuals. None of the recommendations involved the use of motor oil. You can't use what the manufacturer recommends PLUS some other product they don't recommend and still claim that you're using what they recommend.
     
  5. ponchh

    ponchh Member

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    LUCAS now makes gun oil. In the racing world we used Lucas on any moving part where ever it may be.
     
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  6. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    I have some, and it seems to be pretty good stuff.
     
  7. grampajack
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    grampajack Member

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    OP, you can't use canola oil because it dries out extremely quickly when exposed to air. It's iodine value is high enough that you could actually use it to mix oil based paints in a pinch, and I have actually heard of artists doing so. Anything that will dry on a canvas isn't something I would leave on my gun for very long.
     
  8. danez71

    danez71 Member

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    Me too and I agree.

    I happen to see it an auto parts store and bought it on a whim. I'm not disappointed at all.
     
  9. RPZ

    RPZ Member

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    I use Tetra gun grease for wet and dry application. It can, and I do use it, as a bore protectant dry, and an exterior (dry) and internal rust protectant. Various gun oils for penetration of close tolerance moving parts. Back up is Amsoil synthetic which I use exclusively in my car. Amsoil now make a firearms lubricant and a cleaner-protectant. Have not tried them yet, but on my to do list.
     
  10. jimmyraythomason

    jimmyraythomason Member

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    I've done that and still do after I've freshly hot salts blued guns and parts. No adverse effects.
     
  11. RPZ

    RPZ Member

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    I use WD-40 to saturate bolt, receiver components, revolver internals (esp after rain exposure) etc as a cheap "prewash" cleaner. Flush with evaporating solvent cleaner, lube/protect, stand to drain.
     
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  12. Elkins45

    Elkins45 Member

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    Quoting myself. I mixed a quart of this stuff 25 years ago and I still have some left. I have never found anything better.

    If you're going to use a natural vegetable oil I would think peanut would be best because it resists oxidation so well.
     
  13. Elkins45

    Elkins45 Member

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    Or maybe castor oil. I know model airplane racers use it in high-revving 2 stroke engines because it doesn't break down under high heat.
     

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