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Having Trouble Rust Bluing.

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by ack3030, Nov 14, 2014.

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  1. ack3030

    ack3030 Member

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    I have been trying to Rust blue my Model 10 s&w and have been having some problems. I Am using Laurel Mountain Forge bluing solution. I stripped what was left of the bluing and degreased with acetone. I put the solution on and wait until the parts get a even coat of red rust and then I boil in distilled water and card off with a carding brush. I do this until I get a nice looking blue then I coat it with Boiled linseed oil and let that cure. The problem I am having is after they step the blue looks great but I can rub it off with little pressure. There must be something I am doing wrong, because I did this whole process twice and the same thing happened. Help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. BBBBill

    BBBBill Member

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    Review the instructions and ensure that you are following them exactly.
    I use the Original Belgian Blue formula from Brownells. Not sure if the instructions are exactly the same, but I'm sure they're very similar.
    Metal prep is important. The surface needs to be no higher than about 400 grit max (360 recommended). Degrease thoroughly. Use acetone or a commercial soap degreaser. Use rubber gloves to keep body oil from contaminating the surface. Plug the bore.
    Boil the gun for a couple minutes before applying the bluing solution. Apply while hot, then boil again before carding off. Repeat as many times as needed to get the color depth you want. It may take as many as 4 - 6 coats to get it as dark as you want.
     
  3. ford8nr

    ford8nr Member

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    Are you sure linseed oil will set the finish? My son rust blued some shotgun parts and wetted the gun with motor oil for a week or so. I just got a gun back from Hot Flash Refinishing and it was wet with what smelled like cutting oil. Even the dipped gun had a little color come off on the rag for the first cleaning. Let that gun sit WET with oil for 2 weeks in the safe though.
     
  4. ford8nr

    ford8nr Member

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    Hot flash has great pricing and gives a discount if you strip and prep the gun. I WILL surly use them again.
     
  5. krs

    krs Member

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    Where'd the idea to use linseed oil come from?

    Generally, linseed is a good wood finisher/rejuvinator but I've never heard of it used in blueing or on steel at all for that matter.

    Wrong oil could be your problem, and I'd look at whatever technique you're using to remove old finish and prep the steel for a new blueing.

    Acetone is a good cleaner but if you can get a can of autobody degreaser try that and then acetone.

    Spend lots of time getting the steel scrupulously ready and use a petroleum oil to set the finish.
     
  6. jaguarxk120

    jaguarxk120 Member

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    The linseed oil is used as a protective coating, just as varnish is put on color case hardening.
     
  7. carbine85

    carbine85 Member

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  8. Jim K

    Jim K Member.

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    Skip the oil until the finish has a chance to take.

    Jim
     
  9. LAGS

    LAGS Member

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    I Oil coat the parts after the 5 or 6th rusting and Boiling.
    After the last rusting, then I boil the parts and do not card them off.
    I apply 3 in one Oil liberally to all parts and let it cure at least over night.
    Then in the morning, you wipe off the oil and all the black crud that you would have carded off comes off.
    I have never heard of using Linseed oil either.
    Linseed oil will dry and then put on a coating, that will eventually start to flake off metal.
    But I think the issue with lack of penetration into the metal stems from the metal Prep, Improper De- greasing, or not wearing latex gloves.
    It could be Over Carding also.
     
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