Heads up on Lee Pro Auto Disk

[chbrow10]

I have been having an unacceptable squib ratio since I started reloading in March. About 1 every 3000 rounds. Most bullets would clear the barrel no problem.

I began to examine my process very carefully, thinking it was operator error. Then last week I think I discovered the problem. My Lee Pro Auto disk was throwing a light charge every once in a while. I found that if I cleaned it before every reloading session, the problem doesn't seem to repeat itself. Anyway, since no one had posted this problem before, I thought that I would give everyone a heads up.

DVC,

Chris

 

[GLOCK45GUY]

Not sure.

What kind of powder do you use? Make sure you fully cycle the ram.

 

[chbrow10]

I use Clay's, and I am very, very careful to fully cycle the ram to the stop.

 

[hill billy]

I've loaded about 2500 rounds with mine with no issues. Generally I leave it full of powder between sessions as well.

 

[chbrow10]

I do not leave it full of powder. I empty it each time.

I would estimate that I have reloaded roughly 5000-7500 cartridges through it since March.

 

[wingman]

I have the standard auto disk with the adjustable charge bar and have not
had problems using aa5 or titegroup actually better then my Lyman powder
measure. Consistent cycles are important also I understand some run Graphite
power through measure to lube unit have not tried it as mine works fine.

 

[prickett]

Are you using the discs or the adjustable charge bar when having this problem?

I've run about as many rounds through mine as you have (WSF, W231, and now Titegroup) without any problems. In fact, I still marvel at how accurate its charges are.

(I'm using discs, not the adjustable bar)

 

[kennedy]

so I have not had any problems with mine, except when loading .223 i wack it with a handle of a screwdriver each round to make sure all the powder goes in, I also do a visiual check to see if it looks right.

 

[rodregier]

I had intermittent squib issues on a Loadmaster using the Lee adjustable charge bar, the Lee Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure and WSF powder in 9mmx19. Occurance was (say) 1-2% level in loaded ammunition. When I switched back to using the fixed cavity discs (only) my problem was resolved.

 

[ants]

chbrow10, after you clean the powder measure and charging die, coat all interior surfaces liberally with powdered graphite. Not only does it help eliminate static, it helps the powder flow much more easily for a complete charge every time. Graphite is coated on gunpowder at the factory, so it doesn't do any damage to the gun, nor does it affect the performance of the powder.

Of course, make sure everything is working mechanically. Full movement forward and backward of disk/charge bar is vital.

The micro-adjustable charge bar disk is difficult to use with very small pistol charges. If you have trouble and cannot remedy it, consider using lighter bullets (which require a larger powder charge) or a powder that requires larger volume (like Unique).

My standard disks and my micro-adjustable disk drop the same charge every time, unless I mess it up myself. When everything is set up correctly, I measure charges as low as 2.1 grains with less than 0.1g variance.

 

[RyanM]

Do you tap the measure in between rounds? I'm using an old original Auto-Disk, and tapping the measure before and during charging results in very consistent powder drops.

 

[ForneyRider]

I have very solid, consistent loads with W231 and Power Pistol for 45ACP.

I also use W231, H110 for my 41 magnum.

Varget I tap a little in .22-250.

I have some AA 2230, and RE 15 I am hoping to use as well. But I may use the PPM for the target loads.

I tend to try and stick with single disk, then double disk, then the adjustable charge bar.

I am setting up the Lee PPM to work on my Pro 1000.

I still eyeball each load. Hard to do when doing a soft load for 45 ACP. But I avoid squibs and double charges.

 

[bluetopper]

I have the Lee Auto Disc set up also on my turret press, and only with large flaked powders such as Clays, American Select, and IMR 800X I sometimes used to experience light charges.
I have two Lee hoppers, one for fine/ball powder and one for flake. The one for fine granulated powder I left as is. The one for large flaked powder I took a hot butcher knife and cut the baffle out that is over the hole in the bottom.
It has worked like a charm ever since. I now have very consistent charges with flake powder.

 

[evan price]

Large fluffy powders can bridge especially in small disk sizes or in the micro-charge bar. I personally don't like the micro charge bar, I found that it can be somewhat more sensitive than the discs are. If I have a charge that I want and I can't find a disk already made to get me where I want to be, I take a smaller disk and carefully ream it out larger to drop what I want every time. Just permanantly mark it as changed, and good to go. I bought extra disks cheap on eBay from people who have partial sets. Don't care if it is all A and B disks, actually those are the smallest holes and are best to use.
I also have tried drilling and tapping and inserting a screw in the side of the disk to decrease the volume. This is good for tuning small powder like Win296, 2400, AA#9, Titegroup, etc. but is no good at all for fluffy stuff like clays or stick powders.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

chbrow10,
It's not the Lee Pro Auto Disk that's the problem, it's a problem with metering low charges of Clays that's the real problem. I know because I have a metering problem with Clays when reloading 148gr DEWC in a .38 Special. The 2.5gr charge doesn't meter well at all. Until the charge is close to 4.0gr, Clays doesn't seem to meter well with our setup.

What caliber are you having a problem with?
What is the charge weight you are throwing?

 

[sniper7369]

That's interesting. I couldn't get mine to throw 3.0gr of W231 for my .380ACP loads to save my life. Tried the charge bar, disks, graphite, tapping it, etc.... I finally gave up and bought an RCBS Uniflow just for charging my .380 loads. I also couldn't get it to meter consistent charges with Unique. As long as I use W231 and the charge is bigger than 4.0 gr it works fine.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I haven't had a problem that I can remember with W231 but then again, the lowest charge I've used is 3.2gr.

I've found the Adjustable Charge Bar doesn't do what it's supposed to do on light charges because the opening is oblong and doesn't sit directly under the drop opening in the powder measure. I did buy a Lee Micro Disk which has the same round holes as the other disks and does sit inline with the powder measure opening. That works very well with low charges and well worth the $7 it cost me..

chbrow10,
If you are throwing very light charges a Micro Disk might be your solution.

 

[Eric F]

Every so often some one will come out and say their auto disc setup will have problems, Some times its user erroe some times its the powder some times its the equipment. Disassemble all the plastic parts and wash with soap and water allow to dry I have an anti static dry spray I use but there are a few ways to "destatic" the plastic parts, lube with dry graphite if this does not work then check assembly and inspect parts for burs. Asside from this it sould work barring user error or incompatable powders. Always empty when not using.

I load 4.9 aa#2 for 38 super. I had a hard time finding a disc to throw this measure, so I went with the charge bar, works very consistantly and never has had a problem.

 

[wingman]

With any system it pays to be consistent and careful, I tape a LED light to my turret shines directly into each case I position my chair so as I cycle I can view the powder charge never have a squib. When using my lyman powder measure and dropping block charges again I use an LED light to check charges only takes a few seconds and could save a lot of grief. Most tools take care, cleaning, lube, etc. Reloading is a super hobby just be safe.

 

[chbrow10]

Good input guys, thanks.

I am using the double disks to throw 4.6 grains of Clays for 45 ACP target loads.

I'll try the graphite thing, and the tapping thing.

 

[schloe]

Accurate's ball powders meter very well in the lee pro powder disk equipment so i use them exclusively. I tried Hodgdon before (the cylinder/stick type powder) and it didn't do as well, plus it was extremely messy.

 

[SSN Vet]

I tap after ever throw.... never had a problem....

but then again...I've never used a flake powder

nor do I see a need to.

W231 has met my needs very well.

 

[prickett]

I am using the double disks to throw 4.6 grains of Clays for 45 ACP target loads.

You might want to try a single disc. You may need to do what Evan suggests and ream the hole to the appropriate size to get the charge you are after.


Evan, out of curiosity, how did you ream yours? I've considered a drill bit, a file, and a reamer, but wonder how plastic discs would be affected by each (e.g. melting)

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

A though I'm having is clays doesn't have much graphite in the powder, causing it to stick more. Adding the graphite to the measure should help resolve your problem I'm thinking.

Regards,

Dave

 

[benzuncle]

I use HP-38 (which is the same as Win 231) with my Pro Auto Disk with the disks and the Lee Charge Bar. I load 45's and 380's. I've had 2 squibs, one in each caliber. That's after around 3000 rounds between the two. The squibs were the fault of the Lever Puller, not the equipment. The Lever Puller has fixed this by visually looking into every charge before seating a bullet on the casing. No more problems.