Hello, first thread and issue with Uberti Walker

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LaneP

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Greetings.

My first post here. I have been shooting black powder off and on since the mid-1970's, including rifles both percussion and flint, double barrel shotgun, and numerous percussion revolvers. My current collection consists of a Lyman .44 New Model Army (originally purchased in 1977), and the rest all Uberti: 3rd Model Dragoon, Remington NMA, 1860 Army and Baby Dragoon.

So recently I bought an Uberti Walker. I have not even touched off a chamber and have already sheared off one of the frame/barrel alignment pins. This started when I decided to disassemble it for a general wipe and lube, and could not get the barrel off. Ultimately it came off by tapping the loading lever against the cylinder face with a wooden mallet.

When attempting to fit the barrel back on, I got the brilliant idea (lol) of trying to unscrew one of the alignment pins to smooth it, due to the ultra tight fit Uberti made on this Walker. I have unscrewed them from several other models over the years with no problem. This time though, the pin just sheared off.

So I have replacement pins on the way from Taylor's. I can't find any info on the thread size or pitch but once I have the replacement in, I can measure that, then drill out and retap the replacement.

Until purchasing this Walker (it's a 2018 model), all previous Uberti's I've purchased have been very good quality with no issues whatsoever. This Walker though, is a bit of a disappointment. There are other minor fitting issues with it, but nothing I can't work out. It's just this one is a departure from the generally great quality of earlier models I've bought. Not horrible but not what I expected.

I've searched the web numerous times and can't find a word about anyone ever shearing or replacing these pins, so this is a long shot. If not, I'll certainly post my results. It will take a while due to having to wait for the pins to arrive, then getting the correct tap for it.

I think when all is said and done I can bring this revolver back to the fold, it's just a bummer it started this way. Oh well, that gives me time to cast bullets this weekend. Thank you all in advance and thanks for a great forum that though I've never post to until now, have used for years for research.

Here is the Walker, next to my '60 Army and 3rd Model Dragoon, which last week I fitted with a Kirst Konverter. Thanks.

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LaneP

Sorry to hear about the problems you're having with your new Walker. Hope everything turns out okay with the frame pins.

Nice photo of your other guns as you definitely have the makings of a fine black powder revolver collection going on there!
 
Yep, pressed in (Tommygunn is correct). Whughett offers an excellent fix for pin replacement. I use a common nail and "turn it down" the same way but use a 1" bench belt sander instead of a file (it's faster).

Like that Dragoon! You may as well correct the short arbors on all your collection. They'll be better revolvers for it!!

Mike
 
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and compliments, they are great ideas too. Percussion revolvers are a labor of love, and I'll have this thing tossing lead before long. I'm taking my time, being methodical, and taking a break when necessary. I've found when I do that instead of trying to rush I get the best results. Thanks all.
 
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and compliments, they are great ideas too. Percussion revolvers are a labor of love, and I'll have this thing tossing lead before long. I'm taking my time, being methodical, and taking a break when necessary. I've found when I do that instead of trying to rush I get the best results. Thanks all.

Sorry about your troubles, but sounds like a great fix for it.. Would love to see a close up photo of the damage???
 
Uberti in general isn't the same Uberti as it use to be from what I hear, but having a pin just shear off doesn't sound like any of the Italian reproduction companies. Then again, those pins are likely aluminum since their only purpose is for alignment, so IDK. Whatever material they are, you'd think they wouldn't just break.

Having said that, Uberti does make interesting stuff, my favorite of theirs is the 1862 Pocket Police. There aren't many 5 shot percussion revolvers out there in "serious" calibers, which is why I like it so much.

As for the Walker, you do get a longer cylinder and more powder charge, but if all you're shooting is a .45 Colt conversion, that's nothing the Dragoon can't do better. The real benefit to a Walker today is using those long chambers and shooting it with black powder and percussion or the .460 Black Powder Magnum cartridge. The .460 BPM is very powerful, I'm talking exceeding .357 Magnum levels of power.

One thing to keep and eye out for with the Walker is the loading lever for the Walker has a tendency to drop under recoil which would force you to put it back in place often.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
Another way is to regrind the latch spring to more of a hook shape, makes it a lot more positive. There's a picture of it somewhere on THR but don't recall where. I did it on mine and it works a lot better.
 
The best fix is what ever Goons does to them. My Walker does not drop the lever even with 60 grain charges, not that I shoot 60 grains often, 40 is my standard load. One of the Dragoons is on my wish list, cant decide which one though. I do like the looks of the square back trigger guard.
The Uberti 1862 Police is indeed a sweet little piece, also gonnerazied. I don't shoot it often, just not a "36" fan, but its a pretty thing.
 
LaneP, you do have good taste in guns,:). That Dragoon is a honey. I don't have any Kirsts but three others are outfitted with the Howell design..
 
client_PART_1503427041830_IMG_20160307_1152092_rewind.jpg Be aware that I had a similar issue with my Uberti Walker when new (2 years ago). The barrel was extremely difficult to remove and reinstall. My conclusion (after measuring) was that the arbor was slightly tapered--instead of bottoming out in the arbor channel, the taper stopped the barrel from inserting any farther when it was fully seated...just a little too soon for tool-free disassembly and re-assembly.

I did some patient polishing with 1000 grit wet/dry paper and Remoil, and 45 minutes later has a perfect fit that came back off with a light tap of the hammer to the cylinder face. This may be your issue.
 
Thanks again gentlemen, very much appreciate all your assistance and compliments. The pins are press fit (now that I've been educated here!), so after flattening and redrilling the frame side, I just tapped in the new pin and set it with a dab of the ultra strength green Locktite.

I am going to look into fixing the arbor length at some point. It falls about 3/16" short of bottoming out in the bore of the barrel. That's another study unto itself as far as how people tackle this. I have polished the hammer face and deburred the safety pin notch cut-out. I replaced the stock Uberti nipples with hardened steel replacements from Track of the Wolf. They look great. Also had to perform the standard enlargement of the bullet port in the barrel to permit conicals to cycle under the plunger (works great now).

Also purchased a replacement lever catch spring and went ahead and flattened the original on the barrel side just a little, to the point it feels like there is a little more added resistance. The earliest I will be able to get to the range will be next Friday morning, time permitting. Plan is to try it out with about 40 to 45 gr. 3F and and a Lee .450" 200 grain conical (not sure if this is a good match or not just yet).

This will fix the lever.View attachment 853203

I plan to make something like that eventually! I just have this feeling that the 200 grain conicals I plan to shoot with are going to drop the lever enough to be annoying, even with the spring "fix" (based on other reports at least).

View attachment 853479 Be aware that I had a similar issue with my Uberti Walker when new (2 years ago). The barrel was extremely difficult to remove and reinstall. My conclusion (after measuring) was that the arbor was slightly tapered--instead of bottoming out in the arbor channel, the taper stopped the barrel from inserting any farther when it was fully seated...just a little too soon for tool-free disassembly and re-assembly.

I did some patient polishing with 1000 grit wet/dry paper and Remoil, and 45 minutes later has a perfect fit that came back off with a light tap of the hammer to the cylinder face. This may be your issue.

Beautiful collection Brad. My Walker is set up exactly as you note. The muzzle end of the arbor is tapered to the point it's a loose fit in the arbor hole, then the section closer to the breech end looks to be where all the friction is. Probably easier for the assembly line to fit the pistols together that way.
 
Thanks again gentlemen, very much appreciate all your assistance and compliments. The pins are press fit (now that I've been educated here!), so after flattening and redrilling the frame side, I just tapped in the new pin and set it with a dab of the ultra strength green Locktite.

I am going to look into fixing the arbor length at some point. It falls about 3/16" short of bottoming out in the bore of the barrel. That's another study unto itself as far as how people tackle this. I have polished the hammer face and deburred the safety pin notch cut-out. I replaced the stock Uberti nipples with hardened steel replacements from Track of the Wolf. They look great. Also had to perform the standard enlargement of the bullet port in the barrel to permit conicals to cycle under the plunger (works great now).

Also purchased a replacement lever catch spring and went ahead and flattened the original on the barrel side just a little, to the point it feels like there is a little more added resistance. The earliest I will be able to get to the range will be next Friday morning, time permitting. Plan is to try it out with about 40 to 45 gr. 3F and and a Lee .450" 200 grain conical (not sure if this is a good match or not just yet).



I plan to make something like that eventually! I just have this feeling that the 200 grain conicals I plan to shoot with are going to drop the lever enough to be annoying, even with the spring "fix" (based on other reports at least).



Beautiful collection Brad. My Walker is set up exactly as you note. The muzzle end of the arbor is tapered to the point it's a loose fit in the arbor hole, then the section closer to the breech end looks to be where all the friction is. Probably easier for the assembly line to fit the pistols together that way.
I did the spring reshape and it got better but still dropped the rod at least 2 of 6 and was bit of a buger to get it to release by hand. All kinds of order new spring here or there but the piece I made fixes it 100%. Can't take credit for I saw it somewhere but can't remember where.
 
I did the spring reshape and it got better but still dropped the rod at least 2 of 6 and was bit of a buger to get it to release by hand. All kinds of order new spring here or there but the piece I made fixes it 100%. Can't take credit for I saw it somewhere but can't remember where.

What material did you use? I suspect mine will be like yours...probably hold up a little better but still drop, particularly with conicals.
 
Use piece of ferrous pipe just a bit bigger diameter of barrel and another as close to diameter of rod. Had to ream the rod piece a bit so it wouldn't be tight. You can use round or U shape for rod loop. Welded the pieces, brazing will be ok. Then measuring from centerline of rod loop cut top opening enough to get it around the front sight with enough room to see the sight easily. I poxied a strap of 4oz leather in the top so it wont mare the barrel and give it tension so it doesn't slide off too easy. It's snug enough that if you push it on with too much pressure it can be rough to get it off but at least it won't just fall off if you point it down or remove it from holster. Dress it up and blue to match and Walla.
If I had it to do all over again I would use the U shape for rod loop. That will decrease the thickness a bit between the pieces allowing the rod to be more parallel with the barrel. It's not bad but mine is just a hair off. Not enough for me to warrant making another.
If you don't have a welding rig you could put round pieces together with 4 riveted brads by using the U shaped lower with flange on each side. -u-.
Pretty self evident I know but thought I'd give you my thoughts.
 
Someone sells these loading lever keepers on Ebay occasionally for the DYI challenged of us although he does not seem to have them currently listed.
 
Someone sells these loading lever keepers on Ebay occasionally for the DYI challenged of us although he does not seem to have them currently listed.
You probably take the pix, barrel diameter and lever diameter to a welder and get one made pretty cheap. Just make sure to increase the barrel diameter enough for the rub protection material. The cut for the front sight will work at 3/8".
Let me know if you don't have any luck. I might still have some scrap. I'm not really interested in volume but if I have the stuff I don't mind making a couple. Just bare with me it's hot and I'm not as young as I use to be. Have had too many heat strokes to be out in the heat. Shouldn't cost much of nothing to ship. Don't know what they sell for but all I'm interested in is the shipping but if you make a donation I'd be appreciative. If you find others that might want one this fall when it cools off I can devote more time to it. A few at a time at best.
 
Use piece of ferrous pipe just a bit bigger diameter of barrel and another as close to diameter of rod. Had to ream the rod piece a bit so it wouldn't be tight. You can use round or U shape for rod loop. Welded the pieces, brazing will be ok. Then measuring from centerline of rod loop cut top opening enough to get it around the front sight with enough room to see the sight easily. I poxied a strap of 4oz leather in the top so it wont mare the barrel and give it tension so it doesn't slide off too easy. It's snug enough that if you push it on with too much pressure it can be rough to get it off but at least it won't just fall off if you point it down or remove it from holster. Dress it up and blue to match and Walla.
If I had it to do all over again I would use the U shape for rod loop. That will decrease the thickness a bit between the pieces allowing the rod to be more parallel with the barrel. It's not bad but mine is just a hair off. Not enough for me to warrant making another.
If you don't have a welding rig you could put round pieces together with 4 riveted brads by using the U shaped lower with flange on each side. -u-.
Pretty self evident I know but thought I'd give you my thoughts.

Excellent ideas, thank you.

Someone sells these loading lever keepers on Ebay occasionally for the DYI challenged of us although he does not seem to have them currently listed.

Thanks. I'm probably going to have to scrounge something up at home knowing my luck :)
 
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