Help me choose a revolver

[Waveski]

https://thefiringline.com/Misc/library/Revolver-check.html

Here is a good tutorial regarding the evaluation of a used revolver.

New vs used: Many (I) believe that the older Smith and Wesson revolvers are of a quality standard which cannot be matched by present day production. (Hoping Driftwood Johnson chimes on this...) As to online options such as Gunbroker , be careful to read the return policy of any seller you consider. Some are very reasonable with returns , some say NO. I own a bunch of great Smiths ranging from 30 to 100+ years old , all from Gunbroker.

As to barrel length , 4" offers a good , workable sight radius along with good balance and handling characteristics. Snubs are for concealment ; 6"-8" is for target , a bit barrel heavy for some shooters. A 4" K frame Smith will please you. (The model 15 is a 4" K frame ... did I mention that?)

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Adjustable sights allow you adjust your sights. That may seem obvious, but if you shoot different ammunition, you will probably find that different ammo hits different points of impact, so being able to adjust the sights is good.

Also, you may find that you have certain shooting quirks that make adjusting your sights useful.

Personally, I suggest you look for a K frame or L frame S&W. The J frames (small frames) are a little bit small for full power 357 Magnum ammunition. Recoil can be uncomfortable.

The K frame is the original frame that was designed for the 38 Special cartridge. The L frame is more recent. The L frame is a little bit larger than the K frame. This means that the problem of split forcing cones with High Velocity 357 Magnum ammo will go away.

If you are going to buy new, pretty much everything S&W is making today is Stainless, they make very few blued guns anymore.

Yes, you can fire 38 Special ammunition in any 357 Magnum revolver. After firing 38 Specials in a 357 Mag, the chambers should be cleaned fairly often. Otherwise the shorter cases of the 38s will leave a ring of carbon and fouling in the chambers. Eventually this ring can build up enough that it would become difficult to seat full length 357 Magnum ammunition. Not a big deal, just run a chamber brush through the chambers every once in a while.

Frankly, most shooters who buy a 357 Magnum shoot 38 Specials through it most of the time anyway. I do. No need for the extra blast, expense, and recoil of magnum loads fort most normal shooting.

If you don't have any need for a Magnum, just buy a 38. If you think you have a need for a Magnum, then buy a 357 Magnum. I have quite a few of both, but frankly I almost always shoot 38s.

Other cartridges, such as 32s, 44s, or 45s are going to be more difficult to find locally. For your first revolver, choose a cartridge you will be able to find anywhere.

If I were going to buy a brand new Smith I would probably opt for a Model 60 or a Model 686.

 

[Wanderling]

Thanks guys.

How concealable is a 4" barrel in an emergency ? And how much less fun to shoot / accurate is a 2.5" one ?

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Many (I) believe that the older Smith and Wesson revolvers are of a quality standard which cannot be matched by present day production. (Hoping Driftwood Johnson chimes on this...)

Well, since you quoted me, yes I will chime in.

I did recommend a Model 686, and I do have one, but frankly S&W quality today just does not compare to their quality from 40 years ago or so.

I buy used S&W revolvers all the time. I am familiar enough with them that I don't feel uncomfortable buying a used gun. I knew a guy years ago who felt comfortable buying used cars. He knew enough about cars that he could be comfortable buying used. I don't know much about cars, but I am pretty familiar with revolvers.

If I was looking used, I would be looking for an old S&W Model 10, like this one. The Model 10 is the classic S&W 38 caliber police revolver. Notice it does not have adjustable sights, but frankly, once you get used to fixed sights they are no problem. This one is a Model 10-5, probably made about 1964. It was a police hand in, notice the armorer's number above the trigger guard. I picked this one up for $125 about 15 years ago, but don't expect to find one for that price today. It is still a great shooter.






A real classic 38 Special revolver is the Model 14. Basically the same as the Model 10 but with adjustable sights. I found this one a few years ago for the unbelievable price of $500. I couldn't get to the checkout counter quick enough.






I have not found a Model 15 yet, but this K-38 Combat Masterpiece is the predecessor of the Model 15. Basically the same as the Model 14, but with a shorter 4" barrel and Baughman front sight. This sight is designed to be unholstered easily without snagging on the leather.






Here is my Model 19-3 that I bought brand-spanky new in 1975 for $125. Don't expect to pay that today. This one is a 357 Magnum. Don't be mislead by the oversized target grips on this one. All four of these revolvers are built on the same K frame.





If I wuz looking for a nice used revolver, I would be looking for one of these.



Or maybe a nice old 38/44 Outdoorsman from the 1930s. But they are a little pricey and a bit harder to find.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

How concealable is a 4" barrel in an emergency ? And how much less fun to shoot / accurate is a 2.5" one ?

The thing that makes revolvers less easy to conceal than semi-autos is the diameter of the cylinder. A revolver cylinder is automatically wider than almost any semi-auto.

4" barrels are reasonably easy to conceal certainly easier than a 6" barrel. I have lots of 6", and 7 1/2" barreled revolvers, but I do not attempt to conceal them.

Technically speaking, a revolver with a 2" barrel is just as accurate as one with a longer barrel. But because of the shorter sight radius, it will be more difficult for the average shooter to shoot well with the shorter barrel. The longer barrel allows you to see misalignment of the sights more easily than a shorter barrel will.

For your first revolver, I suggest you look for a 4" barrel. It is a good compromise.

The 38 Military & Police with the 2" barrel at the top of this photo is fun to shoot, but it is tougher to shoot accurately. The same is true of the J Frame 2" Model 36 (Chief's Special) below it.

 

[SharpDog]

Thanks guys.

How concealable is a 4" barrel in an emergency ? And how much less fun to shoot / accurate is a 2.5" one ?

It depends on how you carry it. Remember that a 4" bbl on a revolver is longer than a 4" bbl on a semi by the length of the chamber. A 6 shot revolver will also be thicker than a semi. From your posts, I would not worry about concealment since you are saying you don't want to sacrifice concealability for shootability. You're not getting any good hits at anywhere near 50 yds with anything less than a 3" bbl and it will take some great shooting to shoot a mid-sized bbl that far, but it's possible. My range instructor can put 6 full-power shots of my .44 mag full 3" model 29 into a quarter off-hand at 25 yds (I can't come close to that). The other problem with a short bbl is that they are usually on lighter frames and you DO want weight if you want shootability. However, weight is another factor hindering EDC.

Personally, I would get a nice shootable revolver (since that seems most important to you) and forget about EDC. If you need have a backup EDC for your Glock, plan on getting a used semi-auto for that.

And I have to post some gun porn as well, the upper right is my model 29 The other is a 329 4".

 

[stonebuster]

I agree with SharpDog get your revolver for the range/home defense and your chosen semi auto for carry. That's what I've chosen to do. I love my Ruger revolvers but difficult and heavy to conceal. Shooting 158 grain 357s and 38 specials are comfortably shot from the GP-100s. Here's the 5" stainless GP-100 and my 4" blued GP.

 

[kidneyboy]

In the spirit of the pics posted here is my G19, S&W 15-3 and GP100 in various poses for comparison. The 15 and G19 have 4" barrels and the GP100 has a 4.2" barrel.

 

[Wanderling]

I think I will go with this one

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog...uger+1705+GP-100+KGP-141+6RD+357MAG/38SP++P+4

No wood grips, but this leaves the possibility of getting a grip I really like in the future.

Any pros / cons ? Does the price look high / low / ok ?

 

[entropy]

Excellent choice. Price is about right for new.

 

[stonebuster]

I think I will go with this one

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/2084_21_49_1814/products_id/70258/Ruger+1705+GP-100+KGP-141+6RD+357MAG/38SP++P+4

No wood grips, but this leaves the possibility of getting a grip I really like in the future.

Any pros / cons ? Does the price look high / low / ok ?

I don't see how you can go wrong with the GP-100 and the price looks fair to me. They're fun guns to shot and at 40 oz. won't beat you up and you won't wear it out. Those black Hogues do work well to manage recoil but you have options for a grip change. The Letts style like I have is what used to be stock on the GPs. They're available on line and there are a lot of wood insert options including Altamont and Chig's grips. If they're still making the GPs with the plunger type front site you can change out the plain black ramp for a fiber optic or red ramp in seconds. Good luck

 

[MidRoad]

Gp100 is a great choice. Don't be afraid to buy a used one. Check out GunBroker too

 

[TTv2]

I know you want a DA/SA, but I think a Ruger Blackhawk .357/9mm convertible would be a good choice for you. 9mm is as cheap as you're going to get when it comes to non-rimfire ammo and it's pretty effective, but .357 is more effective.

If you're dead set on DA/SA, then a GP100 with a 4 inch barrel in .357 Magnum. If you're interested and aren't against buying ammo online, take a look at the .327 GP100. It can shoot the .32 S&W Long, which is maybe a $1 more a box compared to .38 Special and it's a fun as hell round to shoot.

 

[The Evangelist Cowboy]

Do NOT be discouraged from carrying a revolver, youll find they are not as hard to conceal as some of these people say they are, Ive carried N frames inside the waistband and out, the trick to any setup is the belt, if the belt works everything else falls into place. As for a first revolver, Id highly recommend you look at used smith K and L frames or the newer Model 66 or the ruger match champion.

 

[WrongHanded]

I like the GP100 a lot. I think if you discount CC (which I do with a 3" in summer, and a 4.2" in winter), I'd say go for a 4.2"- 6" barrel. I've yet to own one with a 5" barrel, but I suspect it may be the ideal length for woods carry and general range fun.

The trigger on a new GP may be a little gritty, but they only get better with use, in my experience. And a kitchen table action job can speed that up considerably. I've tried both ways.

@Waveski gave you a very good rescource to use for selecting a used revolver. Armed with that knowledge, you should be able to confidently buy used, if you'd like yo do so.

Just my 2 cents. I hope you find what you're looking for!

 

[stchman]

I own several revolvers. To many people's surprise, I really like my Taurus Model 66. It has the nicest SA trigger I've ever shot. I do like my GP100 as well.

 

[bullseye308]

The 4” GP-100 is my next revolver if I get another one. I have the 6” stainless and love it, but it’s a little heavy to carry.

 

[Confederate]

The revolver I'd go with is the S&W Combat Magnum 66.

Oh, scrud! Never mind! I just went to the S&W website and they're not making it in 4- or 6-inch barrels. Those idiots are putting rubber grips on their 2.75-inch barreled guns, plus they're putting black screws in the side plate and a black cylinder release! They must have a committee to determine just how far the company can get away from attractive, classy revolvers.

So start looking for a mint Ruger Security-Six. Or a S&W 686.

I don't know whether S&W still makes nickel-plated revolvers anymore or not, but if they do, they're great. Just DON'T USE HOPPES on it. Stuff eats away the nickel finish.

 

[fallout mike]

Hard to get more classic looking than a K frame S&W.

 

[expat_alaska]

I think I will go with this one

https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/2084_21_49_1814/products_id/70258/Ruger+1705+GP-100+KGP-141+6RD+357MAG/38SP++P+4

No wood grips, but this leaves the possibility of getting a grip I really like in the future.

Any pros / cons ?

I think you made a good choice with the Ruger GP100 in .357. Just be apprised that the DA and SA trigger pull may be a bit heavy, which is easily and inexpensively cured.

I have a Ruger SP101 .3" .38 Spl., first year of manufacture (1989) that I bought in 1990. The cylinder was reamed for the Remington .357 125 grain cartridge (as was the practice back then), as it has a shorter frame and cylinder than the SP101 .357 guns produced by Ruger shortly afterward to date due to demand for that caliber in an SP101. The factory grip was always too small for my long fingers so I got a Hogue Monogrip for it. I also bought and installed a Wolff spring kit to lessen the trigger pull. Factory mainspring is 14#, factory trigger return spring is 10#. I used a Wolff 11# mainspring and a 9# trigger return spring, checked it for proper function (adequate firing pin primer strikes and trigger reset), all was satisfactory, and now it is a pleasure to shoot and handle. It has snag-free fixed sights so even 25 yard accuracy is not a point to consider for my use.

The SP101 is built like a tank for its size and is a bundle to carry concealed compared to some small Colts and Smiths (my 1911 .45 ACP 5" is slimmer and more concealable!). I keep it loaded for HD with Federal .38 +P HP Hydrashok rounds, easily handled by my 5'-2" wife.

If you are dissatisfied with the factory springs when you get it, check this out. Easy to change out:

https://www.gunsprings.com/RUGER/GP-100/cID3/mID52/dID233

If you ever have to send it back to the Ruger factory, save your aftermarket springs and replace them with factory springs, because Ruger will toss them and put their factory springs back in.

My Ruger had very sharp internal edges (enough to cut fingers if not careful) so I would advise just to slightly remove them with some 1500 grit sandpaper and it will help with the internal fit of the gun.

Sincerely, good luck with the GP100. Again, I think it's a very good choice!

Jim

 

[Stephanie B]

These DAO Model 64s are a good deal, but spring for the hand-pick. Some other deals can still be found. I picked up a Model 15-3 for $350 last year. There are plenty of Model 10s around. Look over the revolver checkout information (someone posted a link) and keep an eye on the used gun sections of your local stores. Don't pass over the ones with rough finishes, as you can find a gun whose external finish shows signs of neglect, but which was rarely used. (Found a rough-looking Model 10-7 which had nearly-new timing for just over $200).

Outside of rimfires, if you don't reload, stick with .38s. IMO.

 

[expat_alaska]

These DAO Model 64s are a good deal, but spring for the hand-pick. Some other deals can still be found. I picked up a Model 15-3 for $350 last year. There are plenty of Model 10s around. Look over the revolver checkout information (someone posted a link) and keep an eye on the used gun sections of your local stores. Don't pass over the ones with rough finishes, as you can find a gun whose external finish shows signs of neglect, but which was rarely used. (Found a rough-looking Model 10-7 which had nearly-new timing for just over $200).

Outside of rimfires, if you don't reload, stick with .38s. IMO.

Stephanie B:

I am guessing (and hoping) you are a female, and we need more like you around here for your point of view. This is mainly a male forum and it would be very refreshing to hear further your point of view..

Looking forward to that!

Jim

 

[Tallball]

The OP made a nice choice. My shooting buddy has a 6" GP100 and it is a very nice revolver with a good trigger. I've bought from Bud's several times and had good experiences. The OP could probably find a better price if he scrounged around Gunbroker, but Bud's prices are normally reasonable.

It's not just that adjustable sights are adjustable, they're also much larger. The notch rear sights on my fixed sight revolvers are so small that I can't shoot them well much past 20 or 30 feet.

As others have said, the shorter barrels are theoretically as accurate as longer barrels. The longer sight radius makes a big difference to me as a (mediocre at best) shooter, though. Also, the longer barrels seem to have less felt recoil for me. My daughter is only 13, but she shoots my 8" S&W Model 14 very well. The extra 4" of barrel doesn't really weigh that much, if you think about it.

And just to be contrary, there IS such thing as a good Taurus revolver. My Model 689 below has a very nice trigger and is as accurate as any other 4" 357 I've shot. It's one of my HD revolvers. (Bring out the pitchforks and torches!)

Taurus Model 689

• Tallball
• Jan 7, 2018
• 1

My "Old Model" Taurus 66 has an amazingly good trigger. It has a 6" barrel and is a joy to shoot.

Taurus Model 66

• Tallball
• Jan 6, 2018

This is the 8" plus (I think it's eight and three eighths) Model 14. It had barely been fired when I bought it recently. After a few more years its trigger may catch up to the Taurus above, but it isn't quite there yet.

Smith And Wesson Model 14

• Tallball
• Dec 22, 2017

 

[huntsman]

For $600. You should get a fine revolver but a work of art? Maybe at x4

 

[Tallball]

$2,400? I would never pay that much for anything, unless I could live in it or drive it to work! (Yeah, I'm cheap.)

Here's one that I got for $400 (plus shipping). I'm not sure if it would be a work of art to everyone, but I sure like it, and it's pretty to me.

It's an old Colt Army Special from 1921. It's a better shooter than my similar S&W, by a little bit.

Colt Army Special

• Tallball
• Mar 4, 2018

Two other favorites of mine are an Old Model ("three screw") Ruger Super Blackhawk that I got for the same price, and a S&W K22 Masterpiece that I got for... I think a little over $400, but less than $450. Like the other poster said, if you don't mind them being a little "finish challenged", you can get a very fine firearm surprisingly cheaply. You just have to be patient and keep your eyes open.