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Help me choose barrel finish

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by carlosmaurixio, Feb 16, 2011.

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  1. carlosmaurixio

    carlosmaurixio Member

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    Well its time to order the Aluma-Hyde paint discussed on here earlier. It will be used to coat the barrel and receiver on my rifle build.

    I am debating between black matte and black satin. I know, it shouldn't be this tough of a decision, but I want to make this build look good and you all's opinions are very valuable to me.

    Nonetheless, the action is from a 98 Mauser. The bolt will be polished and left "white" while the receiver and barrel will have matching paint (in question). By the way, it will sit on a black synthetic stock.

    I am looking for ideas and pictures, lots of pictures, so feel free to show off your custom rifle and let me know what finish you went with. Thanks!
     
  2. carlosmaurixio

    carlosmaurixio Member

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  3. snake284

    snake284 Member

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    Man, that looks good. Is this finish one you have to bake on in an oven?
     
  4. carlosmaurixio

    carlosmaurixio Member

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    I tracked down the owner and exchanged a few words via email. He said he had it duracoated mate black. Mentioned he didn't like is as it flaked at the crown so he will strip it down and have it parkerized.

    I believe Duracoat is baked on. Gunkote has a similar bake on formula.

    I am planning on using Aluma-Hyde which is air dry. Other have used it with good results.
     
  5. joed

    joed Member

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    About what I figured with duracoat. I looked at it and passed. The best so far has been satin black rustoleum that didn't last either.

    I'm not going to waste any more of my time and money on things that don't work. My decision is to take the gun back to where the work was done and have them send the barrel out to be blackened which is much more durable.

    Good luck on your quest.
     
  6. Horsemany

    Horsemany Member

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    I'd go with matte black but be sure to bead blast it before coating with any product. This will decrease the chances of flaking dramatically. A lot of the complaints I've read about adhesion problems stem from lazy prep work. Any coating needs "tooth" to grip the substrate.
     
  7. jerkface11

    jerkface11 Member

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    Duplicolor wheel paint doesn't chip off at the muzzle. There's only 4 colors available though. The black one does look nice.
     
  8. carlosmaurixio

    carlosmaurixio Member

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    I had not given thought to paints intended for other purposes. Aluma-Hyde is an epoxy paint, I am not sure what Duplicolor is, but if it is meant to go on wheels it might work. I do not have a sprayer so anything I use has to come from a spray can. That is why I had chosen the Brownell's Aluma-Hyde (spary can + no baking.

    Do you have any pictures of your work with Duplicolor paint?

    I do not have access to a beadblast cabinet. I am sanding everything down with 220 then 320 then 400 and degreasing with acetone before paint. I hope this will be enough.
     
  9. jimmyraythomason

    jimmyraythomason Member

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    Most likely that is the reason right there!
     
  10. carlosmaurixio

    carlosmaurixio Member

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    http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=470470

    Awesome! I will give Duplicolor a try. Beats waiting and paying to have it shipped and if it doesn't work I am only down a few bucks and and a couple of hours of re-sanding.

    I was hoping to get more pictures... but meh.

    By the way, how much paint will do the job for a barrel, receiver, and trigger guard assembly? 12 oz can?

    And how many coats will it need? How much time do I let it rest between coats? Thanks!
     
  11. jhngardner367

    jhngardner367 Member

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    Try the cammo kit from Gander.Ipainted my CVA Hunterbolt inline bp with it two years ago, and it still looks great. Just make sure you fully degrease&prep it,and let it dry for 30 min.@60/70 deg.F,between coats. I used 3 medium coats. you can buy the kit,with 4 colors,for $15, or one can for $8. One can will give plenty of coverage. Also make sure it's the permanent paint,as they also sell a temporary paint that comes off easily.The colors available,in the kit,or single,are black,o.d.green,tan,&rust-brown.
     
  12. jerkface11

    jerkface11 Member

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    One can will do it. Just make sure you get all the oil off first.
     
  13. carlosmaurixio

    carlosmaurixio Member

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    I am also considering the Duplicolor Engine paint instead. Any knowledge on that one? I saw several THR posts on it as well.
     
  14. jerkface11

    jerkface11 Member

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    I know the wheel paint is extremely durable. No experience with the engine paint.
     
  15. CraigC
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    CraigC Member

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    I wouldn't use off the shelf spray paint when firearms-specific coatings are readily available.
     
  16. ColtPythonElite

    ColtPythonElite Member

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    If you spray it on, it can be chipped off...Personally, I'd just get it blasted and dipped in hot blue. It will be matte black. I don't know about where you live, but my local gunsmith charges 85 bucks for a matte finish job.
     
  17. joed

    joed Member

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    A very big +1 on the above. I tried paints on mine and none really last very long. All started to chip away at the muzzle. You'll be further ahead paying money and having it blackened if stainless or blued if carbon.
     
  18. jerkface11

    jerkface11 Member

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    LOL they cost more and don't work any better. The only advantage they have is more colors are available.
     
  19. CraigC
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    CraigC Member

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    Yeah, like I've never used spray paint. I've used a can or two in my time. No spray paint on the market will hold up as well as a firearm specific finish. Period. :rolleyes:
     
  20. jerkface11

    jerkface11 Member

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    Roll your eyes all you like. Wheel paint is at least as tough as "firearm specific finishes".
     
  21. Horsemany

    Horsemany Member

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    IMO the problem with gun specific coatings is that they are mostl matte finish to look like a beadblasted blue or parkerizing. In the automotive paint industry the matte paints are the least durable. A catalzyed urethane like the whole care is painted with is extremely durable but nobody wants there rifle barrel to shine like a crystal ball. IME it would be far more durable though than the matte offerings.
     
  22. nastynatesfish

    nastynatesfish Member

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    I use lauer and kg. They both have there uses. If it will fit in an oven id use kg. Ive never had lauer flake on my crown and mine is a 7mm mag. You just have to give ai a good surface to bond to. I use steel wool and carb cleaner to degrease it. If you want some pics messafe me and ill sent you a few
     
  23. carlosmaurixio

    carlosmaurixio Member

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  24. CraigC
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    CraigC Member

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    BTW, my 10/22 has had its AlumaHyde II finish for two years and in that time has gone through several thousand rounds. There is zero flaking at the muzzle. Maybe a centerfire would be different, maybe not. If yours chipped, you probably slacked off on your prep work.
     
  25. carlosmaurixio

    carlosmaurixio Member

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    Blast and blue for around $85 is not too bad. I don't want to invest too much on this old thing though since I don't even know how it shoots. If it turns out to be a heck of a shooter with plenty of life left I might swing for the professional blueing in the future.

    For now, I just wanted to run through it, completely disassemble it, clean it, and while I was at it, sand it down and shoot some paint on it to make it look somewhat decent. I went with the engine enamel for around $5 at the auto parts store. The finish has yet to completely cure since I just finished baking it this afternoon. I'll let it harden and cure the rest of the week before taking it to the range. If it holds up then great, but if it doesn't then I'm only out 5 big ones.

    First impressions are mixed. First and foremost, the rifle looks much better that when I first bought it. I can only imagine what it will look like if I decide to swing for the professional blueing. Next, I'll say that the paint seems to be holding on pretty well for the most part. For the bad: There are a few places on hidden edges and corners that I managed to accidentally scrape while I was handling the parts that chipped upon impact. Minor stuff, but nonetheless the paint did chip. It could be due to the fact that the paint has not fully cured yet or that it was improperly prepped, we'll have to wait and see how long it holds. Lastly, I'll mention on the overall appearance of the paint itself. I had a lot of trouble getting a consistent look to it, some parts are glossy and some parts look almost parkerized. It isn't too bad and it could be due to user error but that flaw is there nonetheless.

    After some shooting at the range this weekend I'll report back with more. Thanks for all of the advice and suggestions.
     
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