help with 336 info/date

[proven]

i'd like to pick up a marlin 336 in 30/30. i've been trying to find one for $300 or less. doesn't have to be pretty, just in solid condition and a good shooter. low and behold, at a local shop today, i found one for $299, very clean, but of later manufacture with the hammer block safety.

i'd prefer a pre-safety model, which is what my 39 is. i mainly prefer the pre-safety models, simply because that's how they were made in the first place and there never seemed to be anything wrong with them. what exactly are the pros and cons of the pre-safety vs. safety models? the sn# is 06D655xx. any idea on date of manufacture? i've heard some not so nice things about the recent marlins, and wonder if this one was made long enough ago to precede those issues.

 

[Abel]

The last pre-safety was from 1983? Maybe 1982. I have a 1990 that is fine. The main thing is to get a pre-2010. That s/n looks wrong. Here is a chart:

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/m...ar-code-production-dates-ser-1-sheet-pdf.html

 

[proven]

if i'm looking at that chart correctly, '06' would be a 1994 manufacture date. can anyone chime in as to any specific pros/cons to the safety/pre-safety?

seems like a decent buy for $299. it's missing the filler screws on top of the receiver where a scope had likely been mounted, but i'm sure i can find those easily enough.

 

[jmr40]

On most Marlins you subtract the first 2 digits of the SN from 100 to get the date of manufacture. On rifles made since the early 70's at least. Older guns, and a few limited runs of guns use a different code. So yes 100-06=1994.

 

[Abel]

can anyone chime in as to any specific pros/cons to the safety/pre-safety?

The pro is that you get an extra safety asides from the half cock on the hammer.

The con is that it looks dumb and it will cost you a deer if you forget to take it off safe. When the hammer strikes the block that is in place when safe is on, its pretty loud!

if i'm looking at that chart correctly, '06' would be a 1994 manufacture date.

Yep.

seems like a decent buy for $299

Better than decent, its a VERY GOOD price.

 

[jmr40]

I prefer the pre-safety rifles too, but it isn't that bad. Only 2 of my Marlins have the safety and I just don't use it except for unloading. Which isn't really a bad idea. Most AD's that happen with leverguns happen when guys are unloading and hit the trigger while cycling rounds out of the magazine. I'd never suggest using it while actually hunting.

Some guys are concerned about accidentally putting the safety in the "Safe" position while hunting and not having the gun fire. They do make a plug that can be bought online to fill the gap after removing the safety. The best idea in my opinion is to buy the correct size "O" ring to put on the safety button. It won't move either way as long as the "O" ring is in place.

Most of my Marlins are made between the 1950's through the 70's, but I have one 1990 model and one 2005. While the stock styles have changed a little over the years they are all about the same in quality. Marlin has done a good job of making consistently quality guns. At least until very recently apparently. I've not really handled any of the new guns, so I cannot comment personally as to current quality. But what I'm hearing is not good.

 

[heeler]

Frankly I despise the looks as well as the lawyers guild inspired wart safety's on these fine Marlins.
But they have some good points as jmr40 pointed out.
Especially for someone unsupervised and inexperinced with firearms...To a point of course.
I just very recently purchased a 1976 built 336 that was pretty fair for $300 but it did have some very light rust here and there although certainly nothing glaring.
My 1981 built 336 was damn near perfect for $275 and absolutely no rust bought two years before.
These non safety 336's are starting to climb in price so you are getting that rifle for a pretty good price safety button and all.
You sure could do a lot worse and at the end of the day it is still a true Marlin.