HELP!! with revolver mainspring strut install

[dagger dog]

Working with a H@R 999 Sportsman 1953 model, need some ideas on how to compress the mainspring and seat on the strut so I can install the small locking pin

this thing is driving me into the loony bin, don't know how many times I've launched it into walls and under furniture having to drag out the vacum to recover the seat. All responses will be greatly appreciated

 

[WestKentucky]

From memory… mind is not a steel trap but I’m 99% on this.

There’s a hole in the guide rod. Compress the spring outside of the gun, insert a paper clip or some other small item to hold the spring. Install the guide rod and then remove your paper clip to release the spring.

Not the video I used when I did mine, but it will show you what you need to see.

Disassembly and Reassembly of the H&R Sportsman .22LR Top-Break Revolver

There’s not a whole lot on the care and feeding of this cool little double action revolver, hopefully this helps someone out. These are great little revolver...

youtu.be

 

[WestKentucky]

Maybe I misunderstood… did you disassemble the spring from the guide rod? That can be a booger to get back together.

 

[dagger dog]

I know about the hole and how the individual parts interact, even have a million paperclips but what tool or tools do you use to compress the seat and spring over the strut?

 

[WestKentucky]

I know about the hole and how the individual parts interact, even have a million paperclips but what tool or tools do you use to compress the seat and spring over the strut?

Got ya. Thats a pain but it’s not that bad now that I have done it a couple times. Need a vise and a socket slightly larger than the head of the strut. Set the vise to just a smidge bigger than the guide rod so that it moves freely. Put the socket over the head of the strut. Get everything in position and push the strut down through the jaws of the vise (jaws catch spring but let the strut slide) and have the pin ready to slip into place.

The socket is optional, but it helps me to hold it longer because the sharp pointy bits dig in and hurt after a few seconds of me not getting the pin in on the first 7 or 8 tries. I have big fingers, and am kinda clumsy. Needlenose pliers or even needlenose vise grips would be a good thing to have handy for putting the pin in.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Got ya. Thats a pain but it’s not that bad now that I have done it a couple times. Need a vise and a socket slightly larger than the head of the strut. Set the vise to just a smidge bigger than the guide rod so that it moves freely. Put the socket over the head of the strut. Get everything in position and push the strut down through the jaws of the vise (jaws catch spring but let the strut slide) and have the pin ready to slip into place.

The socket is optional, but it helps me to hold it longer because the sharp pointy bits dig in and hurt after a few seconds of me not getting the pin in on the first 7 or 8 tries. I have big fingers, and am kinda clumsy. Needlenose pliers or even needlenose vise grips would be a good thing to have handy for putting the pin in.

That's exactly how I did it.

 

[dagger dog]

Got ya. Thats a pain but it’s not that bad now that I have done it a couple times. Need a vise and a socket slightly larger than the head of the strut. Set the vise to just a smidge bigger than the guide rod so that it moves freely. Put the socket over the head of the strut. Get everything in position and push the strut down through the jaws of the vise (jaws catch spring but let the strut slide) and have the pin ready to slip into place.

The socket is optional, but it helps me to hold it longer because the sharp pointy bits dig in and hurt after a few seconds of me not getting the pin in on the first 7 or 8 tries. I have big fingers, and am kinda clumsy. Needlenose pliers or even needlenose vise grips would be a good thing to have handy for putting the pin in.

BIG THANKS that worked! But I still have light strikes which I've been trying to repair for 10 years, that's with the new strut, second new spring and original seat which is a machined piece with a recessed hole for the bottom of the spring and a relief for the disassembly pin, the flat mainspring seats will not fit the gripframe of the 999 1953 model year with the firingpin on the hammer. I've also checked for bent quill, end shake. tight chambers not letting the cartridge rims seat, all light strikes on random chambers and she locks up TIGHT.

Go figure, I hate to give up on such a nice example very accurate model guess she'll go on the back burner for awhile or if any of y'all have any other ideas I'll jump on those in a heartbeat !

 

[Blue68f100]

I've added washers under the spring to increase spring force. Just need to check that it does not bind up while cocking.

Have you checked for things binding, not moving freely?

Are you shooting factory ammo or reloads?

 

[Col. Harrumph]

I had light strikes with my Hi Standard revolver, and hammer springs are unobtainium. I preloaded the old spring not with washers, but with an aluminum spacer found in the fasteners aisle.

 

[WestKentucky]

I've added washers under the spring to increase spring force. Just need to check that it does not bind up while cocking.

Have you checked for things binding, not moving freely?

Are you shooting factory ammo or reloads?

It’s a 22lr so we can rule reloads out. The washers trick might be what is needed, but those mainsprings are strange. Thick and strong with little space in between. Not much room to work with.

 

[dagger dog]

I've tried spacers with old assembly I'll give it a go again and get back with you.

 

[1lnbrdg]

Check with Wolf Springs. I bet they can come up with a spring that will meet your needs.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

I have a slightly different method for compression of the spring, a drill press vice and use the drill press to compress the spring. On your light strikes could there be something interfering with the hammer coming to full rest such as a burr or other thing in the hammer channel?

 

[dagger dog]

Well, so far tried spacers (small E clips) between the coils of the mainspring, nope, nada, nix, didn't work, since I had some NOS Wolff springs, I measured the diameter of the spring stock and picked out one that was the same outside diameter and thicker stock by .003", cut it 1coil longer than the original installed that tried a cyl full double action 6 out of 9, all the misfires fired on the second go round, loaded another cyl and thought I'll try single action fired all nine, hey might be getting somewhere, reloaded 7 out of 9 single action, guess I'll have to strip it all the way down and check for wear on bearing surfaces etc. may have missed something on the first strip right after I got it.

If any of you guys have had this problem on a H&R rimfire 22 either topbreak or solid frame and fixed the problem or if you know of anyone who works on these could give me contact info I'd be greatly obliged,

 

[dagger dog]

I have a slightly different method for compression of the spring, a drill press vice and use the drill press to compress the spring. On your light strikes could there be something interfering with the hammer coming to full rest such as a burr or other thing in the hammer channel?

I'll check that out!

 

[Rule3]

Use a fork

 

[Jim Watson]

And firing pin protrusion is adequate, right?

 

[dagger dog]

And firing pin protrusion is adequate, right?

I purchased a used hammer from Numrich some years ago for testing only, that was for an earlier version all dimensions were the same except for the width, double checked the protrusion it was the same as the original, all misfired rounds ignite on the second hit, but holding a finger against the recoil plate and firing it the hit doesn't feel all that strong. ch check the first large image especially the lower "heel" part of the new mainspring strut where it bears against the hammer, then take a look at the second large image of the two struts toe to toe, the right is the original the left is the replacement, (see the difference?) there is a flat on the heel of the original that's not on the replacement.

Going to remove the excess on the replacement, reinstall all the parts and retest, but right now I'll have to put it on the back burner and get back with y'all later.

 

[Tilos]

I would check the END PLAY of the cylinder.
If it is excessive, shimming the front of the cylinder will move the cartridge rim closer the firing protrusion on the hammer.
jmo,
.

 

[Tilos]

Well, so far tried spacers (small E clips) between the coils of the mainspring, nope, nada, nix, didn't work, since I had some NOS Wolff springs, I measured the diameter of the spring stock and picked out one that was the same outside diameter and thicker stock by .003", cut it 1coil longer than the original installed that tried a cyl full double action 6 out of 9, all the misfires fired on the second go round, loaded another cyl and thought I'll try single action fired all nine, hey might be getting somewhere, reloaded 7 out of 9 single action, guess I'll have to strip it all the way down and check for wear on bearing surfaces etc. may have missed something on the first strip right after I got it.

If any of you guys have had this problem on a H&R rimfire 22 either top break or solid frame and fixed the problem or if you know of anyone who works on these could give me contact info I'd be greatly obliged,

Putting the clips BETWEEN the COILS will not increase the spring pressure, just limit it's compression length.
The added shims/spacers need to go on either END of the spring, not between the coils.
jmo,
.

 

[dagger dog]

Putting the clips BETWEEN the COILS will not increase the spring pressure, just limit it's compression length.
The added shims/spacers need to go on either END of the spring, not between the coils.
jmo,
.

Well knock me over with a feather , that NEVER crossed my mind, can't express my gratitude, thanks so much.

I did shim the cylinder earlier, didn't have much end shake to start.