Hi Power - FN vs FEG

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Reset ... That had not occurred to me but it makes sense. The magazine safety spring is compressed when the trigger is drawn back , so that spring plays a roll in reset.
What is the degree of difficulty in swapping an HP trigger return spring?

BHPs made before the MKII have magazine disconnects that are typically easier to remove than MKII and MKIII disconnects. In fact on many T and C series gun you do not have to remove the trigger to remove the disconnect. Removing the retaining pin in the trigger will allow you to remove the disconnect shoe via the magwell. Epoxy MKIIIs are the worst. The Epoxy really makes the trigger pin problematic. Lots of people have marked up their frame and trigger pin removing tough MKIII pins. If you know how to detail strip the pistol down to the frame and small parts you can do it easily. If you don't go slowly. Protect the frame, watch a lot of Youtube videos or take it to a smith. LOL

PS Many people think the trigger pin is tapered. It is not. It is .117" from end to end. The holes in the frame are different sizes. The hole on the right side of the pistol is undersized to help retain the pin. So be sure to drive the pin out from right to left and reinstall left to right.
 
Waveski

I have used a number of FN Hi-Powers, FEG, and FM copies over the years. I would rank them in the same order with the FNs being the best built, the FEGs for the most part also being very well made, and the FMs, while being fully functional, possessed the heaviest trigger pulls and were the least refined in overall fit and finish.

Now while my Browning Hi-Power Mk.II will probably not win any beauty contests, it still out shoots any of the "nicer" Hi-Powers I have had! The sights are easy to see and are spot on target, the ambi safety works to perfection, and the trigger pull was so crisp and clean right out of the box, I never bothered with taking out the magazine safety.

RpMeXzn.jpg
 
Let me add another inquiry-

I have read conflicting reports and reviews about the Hi Power's ability to cycle hollow point type ammunition. Can anyone share their experience with that ?

There apparently two different types of integral feed ramp designs on Hi Powers..The origional had a "hump" in it with later barrels having a smooth ramp. It is "said" that the humped ramps will not reliably feed some types of HP bullets. My HP has the old style humped ramp that I hand polished to a mirror finish and it feeds the Rem 115 grain HP's with total reliability. As Forrest Gump says..."that is all I gotta say about that!"
 
There apparently two different types of integral feed ramp designs on Hi Powers..The origional had a "hump" in it with later barrels having a smooth ramp. It is "said" that the humped ramps will not reliably feed some types of HP bullets. My HP has the old style humped ramp that I hand polished to a mirror finish and it feeds the Rem 115 grain HP's with total reliability. As Forrest Gump says..."that is all I gotta say about that!"

That’s covered extensively on page 1. It’s also something I’m going to do with mine soon
 
PS Many people think the trigger pin is tapered. It is not. It is .117" from end to end. The holes in the frame are different sizes. The hole on the right side of the pistol is undersized to help retain the pin. So be sure to drive the pin out from right to left and reinstall left to right.

That is very useful information.
 
If you can disassemble the trigger assembly and pull the disconnect out, you can swap the trigger return spring. I removed mine and put the same spring back in. It improved the trigger a great deal. Smoother, not gritty. Also added a certain tactile quality to the reset that wasnt there before.

View attachment 876632
I would put the pin back in and stake it in place, just so you don't have that naked, ugly hole....
 
Update -

My non-hump feed ramp handles hollow points without issue.
Target is from 10 yards , standing unsupported. I attribute the flyer to cold trigger finger (18 degrees air temp) and my gnat-like attention span. IMG_1442.jpg
 
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