Let me offer my thoughts on how I would proceed with my next Hi-Power for trigger improvement, in light of what I did with my first one.
First, I'd create the secondary surface on the sear. This whacks about 2 pounds off of the pull weight.
Second, I'd remove the magazine disconnect and save it. This is for crispness and probably a little trigger pull weight reduction.
Third, I'd polish the trigger lever and the top part of the trigger rub inside the frame. Both the trigger lever and top part of the trigger, and the frame's inner surfaces they rub against, can be polished. I used a pointed jeweler's file with 2,000 grit sandpaper wrapped around the end to do the polishing in hard-to-reach areas. The sides of the sear lever rub inside the slide, and they can be polished. Some of these areas you can polish might contribute to a gritty trigger feel. Decide for yourself if any polishing is worthwhile. If you leave the mag disconnect in your gun, polish the surface that rubs on the magazine, and the area on the magazine where the rubbing occurs.
Fourth, I would snip the sear lever spring by 1/3. This should take about 8 oz off of my trigger pull.
After those four steps, I would probably be under the 6 pound pull weight mark, maybe as low as 5 pounds, depending on the starting pull weight out of the box. The smoothness and crispness should be excellent at this point.
Last, I would take a little tension off of the sear spring. This step might require several rounds of adjusting and testing. The goal is to stay well on the safe side of hammer follow, but with measurable pull weight reduction.
I use an electronic Lyman trigger pull gauge for my checks to make sure I'm not fooling myself any step of the way. Getting below a 4 pound pull is an important red flag, because quite likely I would have induced hammer follow.
First, I'd create the secondary surface on the sear. This whacks about 2 pounds off of the pull weight.
Second, I'd remove the magazine disconnect and save it. This is for crispness and probably a little trigger pull weight reduction.
Third, I'd polish the trigger lever and the top part of the trigger rub inside the frame. Both the trigger lever and top part of the trigger, and the frame's inner surfaces they rub against, can be polished. I used a pointed jeweler's file with 2,000 grit sandpaper wrapped around the end to do the polishing in hard-to-reach areas. The sides of the sear lever rub inside the slide, and they can be polished. Some of these areas you can polish might contribute to a gritty trigger feel. Decide for yourself if any polishing is worthwhile. If you leave the mag disconnect in your gun, polish the surface that rubs on the magazine, and the area on the magazine where the rubbing occurs.
Fourth, I would snip the sear lever spring by 1/3. This should take about 8 oz off of my trigger pull.
After those four steps, I would probably be under the 6 pound pull weight mark, maybe as low as 5 pounds, depending on the starting pull weight out of the box. The smoothness and crispness should be excellent at this point.
Last, I would take a little tension off of the sear spring. This step might require several rounds of adjusting and testing. The goal is to stay well on the safe side of hammer follow, but with measurable pull weight reduction.
I use an electronic Lyman trigger pull gauge for my checks to make sure I'm not fooling myself any step of the way. Getting below a 4 pound pull is an important red flag, because quite likely I would have induced hammer follow.
