Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by taprackbang, Jun 15, 2008.
Nice rifle.. I love two-tone colors.
Guess I'll add mine to the bunch here....
FA-91 "Skateboard tape" version
Brunton NRA Sport Optics 3-9x Scope
Added a wide foregrip with the help of hours of dremeling
Can of Krylon for the furniture
Trigger group is at Williiams Trigger Specialties for a trigger job as we speak.
To the guy who mentioned the bolt assembly being the hardest part, yes it was!
I not only got most of my scrapes and cuts from there (and general soreness in the hands) but it was the part of the assembly that held me the most back, time wise.
A friend of mine however managed it very well, so it is all technique. We will train more the next time we get to play around with the rifles I hope.
As for ammo, we were shooting the kind of ammo that the Home guard keep at home with their rifles, “readiness ammunition” or some sort.
Seeing as I have never held a rifle before (except 22LR) I did not notice the balance issues…until afterwards when I got to hold one of the instructor’s rifles. (A Sauer, competition rifle I assume)
I've had my PTR91 for a couple of years now. I too made some relatively extensive modifications to it, including the Magpul PRS stock, heavy buffer, muzzle brake, Bill Springfield trigger job, Ambi safety from Williams Trigger Specialties, and the excellent Hensholdt scope. When I bought the rifle, it seemed to recoil excessively to me, so the muzzle brake was added. This is a great addition to the rifle as it keeps the muzzle on target, it doesn't drift at all. Unfortunately when I shoot from prone, it does kick up quite a bit of dust!
In its present configuration it is my favorite rifle, and gets the most range time, even if I don't shoot that many rounds through it. Even reloads aren't cheap anymore at nearly 30 cents apiece.
It is accurate, reliable, and just plain fun to shoot.
One more thing. I have a subcaliber device for shooting 22 long rifles through it which make this rifle the hit of the range for new shooters and young people. I like it too in this configuration!
It is versatile, reliable, accurate and a whole lot of fun for what I use it for, plinking at distance. It has also accounted for a few prairie dogs over the years, including one on the run at 425 meters shooting the 308, not the 22 long rifle (I have witnesses! LOL).
The Prairie Dog sniper. Cool!
My PTR 91F
Here is my baby.
She is sweet...
Scopes for the PTR
Can you guys tell me about which scopes you have mounted on your G3? Was it difficult or easy?
It is a Springfield Armory SAR8-Greek version
It was made by Hellenic Arms in Greece on HK Tooling.
All parts interchangeable.
THe PTR was above the SAR 8 in the store.
I chose the SAR 8.
But to each his own.
So, with all the owners on here, can anyone tell me where I can buy an "ejection port buffer"? I understand this is a small piece of plastic or rubber that keeps the case mouths from being dented and creased on the ejection path. I'm hoping I might be able to reload cases at least once or twice and not feel so wasteful shooting brass cased ammo.
Sorry, Z-Mich. I don't have a port buffer and don't know where to get one. My solution is simple -- just shoot milsurp ammo! It's not reloadable, anyway, due to the berdan primed cases.
These days the port buffers are made of unobtanium. If you find one on gunbroker or hkpro dot com, it will run $125 - $150 or so. I find it to be worth the money spent, but then I reload. If I can find my empty cases, I can reload them, as the buffer prevents those gawdawful dents and creases. The buffer does nothing for that herculean Vorgrimmler fling of empty brass, other than direct it more downwards and towards the front. Still the empties land 10 yards or more away from your firing position.
The Hensholdt 4x scope which was designed for the rifle and which snaps easily into place using the HK claw type mounting system, is really quite a value these days. CDNN, Cheaper than Dirt, Copes Distributing, and others are online sources. The Cheaper than Dirt (maybe it is CDNN) have the older style scopes too, prior to the Fero-Z model which I have and just think the world of. Has a built in BDC, easy to use range finder, hold offs, and other neat features, including a sun filter and a provision for an illuminator for using the scope in low light conditions. It is usually sold in like new condition for less than $400.
Otherwise, get the sniper claw mount with the 30 mm rings, and 1 inch inserts. It can be used with some scopes, but eye relief becomes an issue using the 30mm claw mount, unless you can find the original Schmidt and Bender 6x or the Zeiss Diavari 6x scopes made for the setup. These too are excellent scopes. Presently I am using a 6x IOR scope in this ring set on a HK 93 clone. Even with the stock fully extended on the Magpul PRS scope, I still have eye relief issues in the prone position with that scope.
stubbicat, any leads on where I can find an original illuminator for my Hensoldt Fero-Z24? It's the one piece I'm missing. CTD and other places have some knock-offs available, but the price is way too high ($25) for the terrible quality. I'd gladly pay $25+ for an original, if I could find it.
Can you post a photo of the port buffer? A friend has access to a great machine shop and lots of materials - maybe he can custom make one for me.
Valmet/AK port buffer from robertRTG.com
What type of muzzle brake is that? Where can I find more about getting one? I assume it screws right on in place of the flash hider?
SAR-8, lots of fun but forget about reloading the brass.
Well, this is what an AG3 looks like.
I have a CETME and have never had a problem with it. Can't even remember the first hiccup. I'm completely satisfied with it. Accuracy is good and I don't mind the weight, I was an M-60 gunner in the Army. I use it deer hunting. By the way, I only paid $300 for it and 300 rds of ammo!
A buddies CETME was fun until it started ripping case heads off the cases... the rifle was filthy however...
The muzzle brake is a Cooley Compensator sold by JPrifles dot com. I like it quite a lot, and had initially intended to run with the rifle in Tactical Class in 3 gun. I lost interest in that game, but I still have the rifle, and the brake makes it much less "bouncy" and stable on target. It is louder, however, which makes me less popular at the range.
Had I to do it over again, I think I would have purchased the tank brake from JPrifles.
PTR 91 F Failure to Eject
Hello All, I hope you can help with some insignt in to a Failure to Eject issue with my new PTR 91-F. I'm a new member to the forum, been reading for a few months info gathering for my purchase. Bought a PTR 91-F. I had read the posts on this thread and also purchased 600 rds. of British surplus from JD Sales, Head stamped with Nato stamp, 94 and RG. Ammo got good reviews from others. Rifle will not eject. Rounds fire well and accurate at 100yrds but will not cycle the bolt. A few rounds have jammed with the following round, but most are stuck straight in the bolt head, easy to eject this round with the charging handle. I broke the rifle down and removed the carrier and bolt without ejecting the spent case and the case was just stuck there in the head, straight in firing position.
Does any one have any advice or action I can take to inproe my chance of these rounds cycling. PTR was not much help. They attached a nasty letter indicating they only recommend commercial and no surplus ammo. Which is in direct disagreement with the posts on this thread.
Any help for a new-be???? Thanks you.
I don't have any British surplus, fired Austrailian without any problems.
If the British ammo uses a tar sealant around the bullet, than that could be your problem.
The chamber flutes of the HK91 action have to be clean. This action opens up so early and so violently (it is a delayed blowback) that without gas lubrication, rims would be ripped off cases . The gas lubrication is created by the flutes directing burnt propellant down the upper 2/3rds of the case, breaking the friction between the case and the chamber, leaving only the bottom one third of the case as a gas seal.
In this rifle, as in all semi automatic mechanisms, breech friction is bad.
So, you have to keep the flutes clean. I always use a chamber brush, which for the PTR-91 is a 45 caliber rifle brush. I clean the chamber each time I am done shooting any gas gun.
If the British ammo uses a tar sealant, the tar evaporates but condenses once everything cools down. That will clog the flutes.
Anyway, that is a guess as to what your problem might be.
Thanks for your thoughts SlamFire1. The .45 rifle brush sounds invaluable. I read somewhere Britsh and the rest of the recommended list was made without tar, but who knows. I understand your thoughts. Keep'er clean. I have Breakfree Clean/Lub/Preserve. Any solvent you like better than the others? You mention the flutes, I understand the flutes importance. What about what I am callling the interior of the receiver? The travel or slide path of the bolt and carrier. I'm not sure I understand the difference between the breech, chamber and receiver? Anyway, the carrier bolt assembly seems smooth enough, easy to lightly oil, but the interior receiver seems rough.
Lastly, thanks again for your thoughts, please feel free to correct any of my thoughts and pass along any information an experienced person might think obvious....and...any ideas on tracking down some surplus with a proven track record in these rifles?
I use what is cheapest. As long as it dissolves powder residue, a powder solvent is a solvent. Break free is expensive. Lots of people have used it, so it must be good.
I use other stuff as a copper cleaner.
I wipe off all surfaces to remove as much powder residue. Then I go over it all with the powder solvent. That includes the locking recesses and the interior of the receiver. I like to get the surfaces clean. After wiping off the powder solvent, I apply lubricant to every moving part, locking part, and surface.
Mine is quite smooth. I don't know why it would make a difference. Being a delayed blowback, the HK91 design should puke out everything.
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