the Black Spot
Member
Believe this is a 922. Trouble finding a firing pin.
Hopkins and allen 922 22lr .....?
- Thread starter the Black Spot
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Believe this is a 922. Trouble finding a firing pin.
dh1633pm
Contributing Member
I had a Hopkins and Allen 12 gauge a while ago. It was in rough shape, certainly wouldn’t shoot it.
Mauser lover
Member
So... what's up? You trying to sell it? 
BBBBill
Member
A fairly simple project for a gunsmith or a skilled amateur t omake one.
OP
OP
the Black Spot
Member
Not trying sell. Looking to get it working.
I'll try making one.
I'll try making one.
Mauser lover
Member
SORRY! It's me, not you. I missed the text below the photo! You explained what was going on just fine.
Do you have a lathe? Do you have the broken firing pin? Before I had a lathe I made a firing pin by improvising a drill motor and a belt sander and files to turn down a.... well, it was probably a nail! An old twist drill would be far superior!
OP
OP
the Black Spot
Member
No lathe. I have an old sewing machine that may have a screw i can turn down on a grinder
Mauser lover
Member
A screw? What's the old firing pin look like? Or do you have it?
Nothing against screws, but they aren't going to have the heat treat that you want. A twist drill will. Many of us have old drill bits laying around that we don't mind sacrificing. I don't know if you do or not, but you could always make a pilgrimage down to Ace Hardware (or wherever you want) and pick up a drill bit.
Find something as close to the biggest diameter of the firing pin as possible. That will cut down on your grinding time.
Nothing against screws, but they aren't going to have the heat treat that you want. A twist drill will. Many of us have old drill bits laying around that we don't mind sacrificing. I don't know if you do or not, but you could always make a pilgrimage down to Ace Hardware (or wherever you want) and pick up a drill bit.
Find something as close to the biggest diameter of the firing pin as possible. That will cut down on your grinding time.
OP
OP
the Black Spot
Member
I have some old bits. I'll give it a go
SGW Gunsmith
Member
Maybe this schematic will help you get an idea of, at least the shape, and what it should look like. If it were me, I'd make a cast of the breech block cavity where the firing pin would reside and then measure that "Facsimile" casting to get some rudimentary dimensions, and go from there with turning and milling the stop slot, Notice, there is a light return spring involved also. I would make the pin from 0-1 tool steel. Pretty tough stuff and wouldn't need heat-treatment:
OP
OP
the Black Spot
Member
Thx for the schematic!
SGW Gunsmith
Member
There are some who claim that the firing pin should actually smack the bottom of the .22 cases rim instead of the top, like the schematic shows. The thought being, the gunpowder is lying along the bottom of the cartridge case, when chambered, and the primer hit will more easily ignite the gunpowder rather than the normal hit at the top of the case rim.
Mauser lover
Member
You wouldn't heat-treat annealed O-1? The stuff I've always gotten from suppliers is annealed, and (while really probably unnecessary for a part like this) I've always been afraid to not heat-treat it. If you use an old twist drill, as long as you don't let it get hot, you shouldn't need to re-heat treat it.
Catpop
Member
I always bought “drill rod” from brownells, never had one break- that I know of anyway! First used the drill press and file, later a 6” craftsman lathe.
Note: brownells had a firing pin kit I purchased too many moons ago! I’ll check it to see if it has one in it
Good luck!
Note: brownells had a firing pin kit I purchased too many moons ago! I’ll check it to see if it has one in it
Good luck!
SGW Gunsmith
Member
That's the way O-1 round stock comes from my supplier, as is, and not heat-treated so it's easier to machine. It certainly can be heat-treated if needed, once a part is made, and then drawn back to the desired hardness. I haven't found the need for that when making firing pins.
Mauser lover
Member
Well, I'm glad to hear that I don't need to do that.
SGW Gunsmith
Member
I used to buy the "Fatigue Proof" steel rods from Brownells mostly for firing pins and other odd sized pins that needed to be turned, but the cost for that steel got so high it became ridiculous. It is good tough stuff though, and no need to heat-treat.
BigBlue 94
Member
Yes, thats a 922. Removing the 'sling loop' bolt on the bottom allows the barrel to be removed. Behind that, on the receiver, will be the serial number. The bores on these are often in very poor condition from early corrosive ammo. It is over 100 years old after all! Mine looks absolute mint (probably refinished) on the outside but the bore looks like a hand dug well...
If you need, i can try to remove and measure my firing pin.
If you need, i can try to remove and measure my firing pin.
SGW Gunsmith
Member
I do some restoration of the Stevens Favorites, Model 44's and once in a while a Marksman, as time allows. Those that I find during auctions and estate sales all have rotted away rifling in the barrels. More than likely caused by the early .22 rimfire ammunition at those times. It being half black powder and half smokeless, and not cleaned after shooting. If these rifles with fugly bores ever want to be shot again, at least so they can hit something, they would be better off getting relined:
BEFORE:
AFTER:
If you look very closely at the "AFTER" picture, you can just barely see the seam of the liner in the barrel.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
If you look very closely at the "AFTER" picture, you can just barely see the seam of the liner in the barrel.
BigBlue 94
Member
Yup, the bore on mine is absolutely unshootable. Eventually I should get it lined.
Here it is in its take down state.
And with the barrel in place
Here it is in its take down state.
And with the barrel in place
SGW Gunsmith
Member
Nice!
BigBlue 94
Member
Id love to find an original Stevens Favorite. I have one of the re-pops from 15 years ago in 22 mag. Sweet little gun. My only Stevens of actual Stevens make is a 22-410 with uncracked tennite furniture. Its my favorite gun. It was the first gun my dad got. I think his pops paid 15 bucks for it, 50 years ago. Its minute of squirrel head accurate at 100 feet.
Back to H&A, i believe they went out of business in what, like 1915 when their factory burnt down, for a second time. Guns from that time are some of my favorites. And the sheer number of makers was astonishing, kinda like pre 1950 automobiles.
SGW Gunsmith
Member
I bought a whole bunch of parts last summer at an estate sale. Got the lot for an extremely reasonable price as they just wanted rid of this stuff:
I didn't really look at any of it until the next day in my shop. I thought this barrel was misprinted and should have been stamped "22. Short", When I looked in my references, sure enough they made smoothbore barrels for .22 and .32 shot loads:
My plan now is to restore the Favorite in the picture as a combo set up with one barrel to shoot "rat shot" and the second barrel for .22 Long Rifle rounds. Should make for a very neat package.
I didn't really look at any of it until the next day in my shop. I thought this barrel was misprinted and should have been stamped "22. Short", When I looked in my references, sure enough they made smoothbore barrels for .22 and .32 shot loads:
My plan now is to restore the Favorite in the picture as a combo set up with one barrel to shoot "rat shot" and the second barrel for .22 Long Rifle rounds. Should make for a very neat package.
BigBlue 94
Member
That's neat! And rare i would assume.
I have an old Remington single shot bolt action 22 with a factory routledge bore, for shot shells only. It patterns so much better than shooting shotshells out of a normal 22 barrel.
For those not familiar with the routledge barrel, its a normal rifled barrel to start. Then they back bore the muzzle end to about .35" diameter to about the mid point in the barrel. It came about for shooting those tiny 2" bluerock/clay pigeon. Works equally well on rats.
SGW Gunsmith
Member
You are correct, a rifled bore will swirl the shot load and then it will print on paper looking like a donut. Several years ago I was lining a Colt Revolver Police Positive in .22 caliber that had a badly bulged barrel from stuck bullets. The idea came to me at that time, "what if" I tried those shot loads in that now smooth bore. The patterns at 15 feet were nice and dense rather than donut shaped.
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