Hornady lnl primer feeding too lowl

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Hamburgler

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Jan 2, 2012
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Hey all, new to the forum,and just getting into reloading.got my new hornady lnl ap a couple days ago and finished setting it up but can't seem to get the primers to seat under flush.i searched the web and watched every video on the press and read just about every post bout it but still can't seem to make it right.

I tried calling hornady but got out the waiting queu after an hour and a half of waiting and only advancing 6 spots.any help would be very much appreciated.thx
 
I do not know if it will help but when I set mine up I noticed the bracket holding the bin would hit when seating primers. Maybe ?
 
Make sure your shell plate is tight. If loose the brass will move away when you try to seat. And the primer seater tight/snug against the base.

If you have primer pocket uniformer you may want to hit a couple of brass and see if the seat lower. I have had some brass that the pockets only allow flush, which is ok.
 
Fwest,my bin bracket was also getting hit, I took it off but it made no difference.shellplate is tight and the brass I'm using is once fired and the old primers were seated below flush as should be.ive gotten back on the phone with hornady,ive currently been waiting three and half hours,this is nuts
 
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I got me LNL about a month ago, and in my internet search for tips and tricks, I ran across a post somewhere where somebody had this issue and solved it. They JB welded a small screw head onto the press directly underneath the threaded spring loaded ram that pushes the primers into to case. The scew head was upside down as you look down on it (you don't see the slots). They cut off as much of the shank of the screw as they could, all that was left was the head. That will force the ram to raise the primer a little earlier, and get you seated. I'd be careful with this and start with a small screw to see if it works.
 
I saw that too John but when talking about primer seating your working hundredths of an inch right,glueing a screw underneath the punch doesn't seem very precise hehe
 
Though personally my AP doesn't have this issue, I could see how it'd easily happen from the factory. One thread I saw somewhere suggested to drill and tap a hole right where the primer plunger hits the frame, and put in a screw from underneath with a jam nut on it. Then you can adjust that screw and lock it in place with the jam nut to vary seating depth.

Personally I'd just stick some kind of shim under it and call it good.
 
Dan,your idea is def decent but id really rather not have to modify the press.J,its not insulting and yes ive done a few times over.I spent six hours waiting in a telephone line up today,trying to get through to a hornady tech but i gave up after i was number 1 for about an hour and a half,ill try again later this week.

Someone mentioned not having a problem with primers being flush,im wondering if i should just go ahead and make some rounds and see if their junk or not......
 
Sorry to hear about that. I called Hornady last friday and I waited 15 minutes and they were able to fix my primer problem while I was on the line with them. It's been flawless since.
 
Take the punch assembly out and carefully disassemble it.
Sand or file the nut bottom so the plunger goes into the nut deeper. Won't take but .002"-.004". Reassemble it and put it back.

Be careful and don't lose the little spring or C clip.

I didn't have to do this since mine was seating at least to flush but I like it better a little deeper than flush also.

I don't know how many times I've posted this but it has been a bunch.

I even called Hornady and told them and they said they would start recommending this. Guess they lied.
 
I hot-glued a thin square of vinyl plastic (cut off an old VHS cover, I believe) under the priming pin. It increases the depth, and also keeps the pin from eventually making a divot in the frame itself. You can also use a thin square of copper sheeting, brass, or etc. I've even seen someone use a dime.

thorn
 
Check to make sure the part is machined correctly. The seater should be able to over seat the primer. A good test is check it with no brass and see how far it sticks up with ram full down (primer seat). Measure it without the shell plate and with, compare to the other one. Adding things to the bottom does nothing to increase the depth. If I recall the plunger can go no further than the outer body.

My press is 4 yrs old and has a dimple on the frame but it dies not stop the primer from fully seating.
 
Hamburgler,
Do you have a single stage press or a hand primer that can seat the primers below flush?

Are you sure the primers can actually go below flush with the components you have?

Are you getting failures to fire when shooting these rounds?

How many failure to fires have you experienced with these reloads on your LnL?

Do the primers "feel" high when running your finger over them (a sure sign they are not seated properly) or are they flush, but simply not below the face?
 
thorn- said:
I hot-glued a thin square of vinyl plastic (cut off an old VHS cover, I believe) under the priming pin. It increases the depth, and also keeps the pin from eventually making a divot in the frame itself. You can also use a thin square of copper sheeting, brass, or etc. I've even seen someone use a dime.

thorn
Click to expand...

Hey that is a good idea, never thought of that. I do have a little depression in the base plate now after about 4 or 5 thousand rounds. I have read about a lot of primer issues and maybe I was lucky but haven't had any problems with mine. For what's it worth sometimes I have to seat mine with 2 pushes of the handle. Now I have had some flush, it seems to depend on the brass but hasn't caused any issues and they all went bang.
 
I hot-glued a thin square of vinyl plastic (cut off an old VHS cover, I believe) under the priming pin. It increases the depth, and also keeps the pin from eventually making a divot in the frame itself. You can also use a thin square of copper sheeting, brass, or etc. I've even seen someone use a dime.

thorn
Click to expand...
This evidently worked for you, but I don't see how.

The nut bottoms out on the frame. If the plunger is not going deep enough, putting something under the assembly that the nut still bottoms out on shouldn't make any difference. I tried this first until I studied the process and realized why it didn't work for me.

I took about .002" off the thickness of the nut and that works.
 
Hey K4,i tried it and it didnt work for me.At first i took off a tiny bit,didnt seem to do the trick and just kept taking some off till i got about .03 off....yup i know thats alot but it still doesnt work.I tried a dime,i tried tin foil...nothing.I dont understand why its not working tho,the punch goes up super high,i cant see any reason it wouldnt work.

I got thru to Hornady today,they said yester i waited for 6 hours cause some retard left his phone system on active so calls went into the queu.They apologized profusely and told me my shell plate might be bent so they will send another along with a primer punch.

32,dgrz i didnt see any threads on primer depths
 
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I have to agree with k4swb. This is the only solution that makes sense. I sanded mine a bit, but it wasn't enough and still had some high primers. I just completed a 2nd try. Worked fine on the first test, I'll know better after the next run.
 
Hamburgler, my large and small punch bodies were two different heights. The large was about .010 taller than the small. I ground 'em down on a flat sharpening stone, now the "nut" part of the large is about the same as the small. Haven't tried the large out yet. I'm thinking of putting a spec of devcon 'steel' epoxy in the frame divot, just enough to fill it flush to keep it from getting deeper.
 
My bad 32 dgrz,i found a good thread,although all the people with primer problems end up getting a dillon hehe.

Germ,if my new punch doesnt work ill try sanding again but i dont think ill try the steel epoxy ,at that point ill get another press.
 
Hamburgler said:
My bad 32 dgrz,i found a good thread,although all the people with primer problems end up getting a dillon hehe.

Germ,if my new punch doesnt work ill try sanding again but i dont think ill try the steel epoxy ,at that point ill get another press.
Click to expand...
I had primer problems with my LNL, but the call to Hornady fixed them, now I'm happy with it. There might be a Dillon in my future, but it'll be an addition, not a replacement.
 
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