How accurate should a varmint rifle be?

Trey Veston

Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
2,891
Location
Idaho/Washington border
I took my late father's Sako Vixen out to the ranch today to see what it could do with some very expensive ammo. It is a beautiful rifle chambered in .222 Remington Magnum, which is apparently very hard to find and very expensive. I mistakenly fired .222 Remington ammo in it the first range trip with obviously awful results.

I found some proper ammo online at $116 a box...

2025-02-27 (3).png

Today, it was 55 degrees and a light wind. The rifle functioned flawlessly and I fired three 3-shot groups at 100yds. I was expecting sub-inch groups with factory ammo, and half-inch groups or better with reloads. I got two 1 3/8" groups and one 9/16" group. Not bad for a hunting rifle, but disappointing for a fine heavy barreled varmint rifle.

I did a video of the range session...



I have two rifles billed as varmint rifles. This one, and a custom Model 70 in .220 Swift built by Jim Zahm. I'll probably sell this one as I don't want to have to spend the time and money to start reloading for it, but if I do get back into varmint hunting, what is acceptable accuracy for such a rifle? I always thought a heavy barreled rifle with a good trigger and in a .22 caliber should be doing 1/2" or better at 100yds.
 
My .22-250 shot 0.33 moa until the throat gave up the ghost. the .222 REM was one of the most accurate cartridges ever. Have a gunsmith scope the throat, check all screws, the scope, trigger, and bore (copper fouled?). Have the best shot you know shoot 20 rounds at 100 yards. 0.5 MOA is what i would find acceptable. Check the barrel, a twist of 1-14 means 52gr bullets or less. My 1:14 .22-250 shot 45 grain Sierra’s lights out.
 
I might not be so hard on the rifle, just because one factory load fired from a really wobbly rest (and no rear support?) shot two disparate groups.

I'd DEFINITELY be seeking some solution to avoid buying $2.30/shot ammo, but I also wouldn't through the baby out with the bathwater simply because that one load shot ~1/2" and 1 1/4" out of only 6 shots.

Yes, your expectation for ~1/2moa performance is reasonable from a heavy barreled varmint rifle, but it's not free. Yes, if we put a million monkeys in a room with a million typewriters, given infinite time, there's certainty that they would inadvertently type the entirety of Hamlet, but that's still a near-zero likelihood of happening on the first day.
 
I wouldn't be happy with a varmint rifle that wouldn't shoot well under an inch 5 groups at 100 yards. I wouldn't expect most rifles to do that well with factory ammo, though. I would expect to get the results I wanted I would have to work up a good load and might have to try several different powder and bullet combos to get there.
 
It sure shows potetial. Don't take this wrong but your rest is rickity. Get in a comfortable position with a solid rest and i bet things get better. I've got the 18 inch full stock version in .222 rem and it likes light bullets. It's no varmit rifle, the best reloads or factory hit about a inch an a quarter at a 100 yards. 9 holes aint much of a test but that all i saw.
 
I have a 93 Mauser in .222 that will do under MOA regularly. Have killed chucks and crows with it at 300 yards. Don't remember missing. Your rifle is probably a better action for the purpose.
 
I'd shoot it from a solid rest before doing anything else. That rest wobbles around like a old lady with a cane
 
I always thought a heavy barreled rifle with a good trigger and in a .22 caliber should be doing 1/2" or better at 100yds.

When I think that way, I try and remove myself from the equasion.

I've watched people use a box of ammunition to get a rifle sighted in but if you have a rest that allows the rifle to stay where you put it...

 
1/2 MIA or better for me. That is a beautiful rifle and if it belonged to me I wouldn't give up so quickly on It. I would get sturdier rest equipment, buy a set of reloading dies and work up a good load for it. I have never owned a rifle that wasn't more accurate with hand loads than factory ammo. Just my 2 cents and you know what 2 cents is worth today. Since the rifle belongs to you it's your choice to do with as you please.
 
Off a bench w bipod and rear bag I want .5" at 100 yards for a chuck blaster, .75" for a yoter.

That with handloads.

Factory ammo has my well worn Ruger B .22 250 at .75 for 5 at 100. But its old Norma factory, so when that runs out who knows what will be next.

Looks like Hornady 55gr Varnint Express might be comparable.

My 700 ADL in .243 does .75" at 100 w cheap 80gr WW fodder.

But I have 70gr Nosler BTs to put on top of some AA4350. The old handload did .5 in a couple other sporters
 
Taking any rifle from over an inch to less than half an inch is an undertaking that takes a good optic, a good trigger and a solid rest. Even with all of them the shooter has to do his part. It doesn't come easy.
 
some varmit rifles are close range guns for around the homestead or home etc so extreme accuracy is not needed. Depends on the game/use I think.
 
So, let’s remember that sub-MOA out of the box is a 21st Century phenomenon and that very good rifles of the last Century, and the Sako Vixen is one, did not routinely do so. If the barrel is a recent aftermarket addition, then, yes, you may have a problem. If it’s original, then you have a challenge.

As per above posts, one load does not a barrel condemn. And is it all barrel? As described above, the rest was not conducive to sub-MOA accuracy. If it’s been sitting in safe for decades, is there stock-barrel pressure or interference of some nature, for example? What’s the throat like? Did your father shoot the snot out of that beauty? 222 Mag is not kind to barrels. Where is the factory load you used positioned vis-a-vis the lands? There are a lot of things that impact accuracy. I’m quite sure that I wouldn’t be ready to throw a rifle out based on that very limited experience. But, to each his own.
 
Back
Top