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How do I dispose of bad rounds?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by mljdeckard, Oct 18, 2019.

  1. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

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    I am using Titegroup in a Lee Auto Breech Lock Pro with an Autodisk measure. I use Titegroup because it meters better than the Unique i was using before. In some of the early iterations of running it, I was arguing with the indexing mechanism. Sometimes the shell ejector popped loose and allowed a double feed into the case pusher, and I had to hand-cycle everything backwards. It took me a while to learn the quirks and rhythm of the system. But while I was moving that first set through, one (at least) got away from me. That's why I'm not afraid to scrap them and start over. I have done thousands of rounds in a single-stage press, where I can lay them out in trays of a hundred and verify the charge in each case. What I am doing now is re-mounting the press down to a level where I can eyeball every case before I seat the bullet.
     
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  2. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

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    I looked at the lockout die, and I would consider adding one if I had an empty station on my press.
     
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  3. Demi-human

    Demi-human Member

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    That press has no threads.
    Lead gives before steel.
    Some humans have to make do without.


    Well, bless your heart. :scrutiny:
     
  4. Bfh_auto

    Bfh_auto Member

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    But the kinetic makes you remember to quadruple check everything the next time.
    A collet puller is easy.
     
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  5. lightman

    lightman Member

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    The components in 300 rounds of ammo represents something of an investment. I would buy a puller, pull that ammo down and salvage the components. Its your choice to buy an inertia puller or a collet puller.

    I also agree that you should review your loading process and identify where you are going wrong. Not meaning to sound harsh but something is wrong.
     
  6. Blue68f100

    Blue68f100 Member

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    TG is one powder you do not want a double charge on. It has and will disassemble the gun to many pieces. I would pull them. If you only do a few at a time it want be to bad. Most hand gun ammo does not have enough bullet sticking out to grab with a collet puller. The Kinetic puller is your beat option.
     
  7. mdi

    mdi Member

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    "There's only one way to eat an elephant, that's one bite at a time". Unless you need the components right away (9mm, nah!) just use an inertia puller. Get a lead ingot to use as an anvil; much quieter and easier on the hand than banging on the bench top or floor and it won't soften the blow enough to matter. Set out a plastic container mebbe a quart size. Hammer a bullet loose and dump the contents of the puller in the container ( bullet, powder, brass, shell holder). Just do as many as you feel comfortable doing at one time; 10? 20? 50? When you're done for the day, put the lid on the container and go have supper. Next session, do as many as you wanna. When all are disassembled, pick out the bullets and brass and either save the powder since you know what it is, or dump it. Before you know the elephant will be comfortably consumed...

    If that doesn't appeal to you, just trash 10-15 rounds at a time, loose in the weekly trash pickup. No one will notice and no Cat will run over them.....
     
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  8. kmw1954

    kmw1954 Member

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    Don't know from which press you moved from to the ABLP but as you discovered there is a learning curve when moving to any new press. That is my 1st point. Second is the choice of powder. While Titegroup is a good powder and many use it I don't use it because it is such a volatile powder and can peak quickly and because I too use a progressive press and the Auto Disk measure.. I concur with the rest that a powder that will fill the case half full or better will just about eliminate the chance for a double charge.

    Back to your question at hand. I too suggest pulling them apart or at least a good few. That will give you a chance to look at what you did and maybe determine if it was a missed powder drop or an inaccurate drop caused by the powder measure. Anyways by pulling them apart all you are loosing is your time. The primed cases can be salvaged, the cases can be and so can the bullets. Powder that is a individual call. If it looks fine and doesn't smell funky maybe reuse it otherwise it is not that great of an amount it can be scrapped.

    I have had one squib and that was after starting to wet tumble my brass. Pulled them apart and found 3 more with wet powder. I then completely changed my procedure!
     
  9. Virginia Jim

    Virginia Jim Member

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    This^^^^^
    Until you figure out what and how it happened, you might be prone to repeat.
     
  10. Bugster

    Bugster Member

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    I use an inertial bullet puller, but I bought a hockey puck at a local flea market and I use it as the block I hit the puller on. It's solid enough to make the inertial puller work but not hard enough to damage the puller.
     
  11. labnoti

    labnoti Member

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    What I meant was the steel vise-grips will mar the Lock-n-Load bushing receptacle.
     
  12. labnoti

    labnoti Member

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    You need to prepare the brass and load it in two different operations. Don't try to completely reload pistol cartridges with no more than 4 stations. This isn't the avocation for quick shortcuts.

    I use an Auto Breech Lock Pro to load straight-wall handgun cartridges. I use four stations to prepare the brass. First, I pre-clean the brass (rinse and dry) and lube it. Even though I use carbide dies, spray-on lube make everything operate smoother. The brass is deprimed (1). Then the body is resized (2). Then the neck is resized (3). Then the neck is expanded (4). After this, the brass, including the primer pockets is cleaned in the wet tumbler. Once it's dry and primed, it goes back on the press for another four stations. Powder charge (1). Lock-out die (2). Bullet seat (3). Crimp (4).

    Now if you ask other people, they'll all have a different sequence. But the idea that you've got to go from start to finish in four stations does not work out. When I load a rifle cartridge, I only use two stations to size and seat. But I still load it on the press twice because I decap it before tumbling. If you have the ABLP press, be sure you're using the case feeder and collator. They work very well in my experience and make loading ~100 cases onto the press almost as easy as just dumping it in.

    You can do it in four steps: Resize and decap (1). Prime, expand, and powder charge (2). Lock-out die (3). Bullet seat and crimp (4). But that won't necessarily produce the best ammo, and resizing and expanding with powder on the press will probably result in tossing the powder in the hopper and shaking the cases full of powder.
     
  13. 460Shooter

    460Shooter Member

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    This^^^^^
    I accidentally ran my powder drop dry while loading 10mm once. I wasn’t sure how many I’d failed to charge and they were sitting in the bin.

    So I grabbed the last lot to check final cartridge weight, and then weighed the individuals from the current lot. It was easy and fast to pick out the 5 uncharged rounds, pull them and reload.

    There’s no need to pull all 300 in my opinion. Just look for the obvious candidates and pull those.
     
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  14. labnoti

    labnoti Member

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    It's a good idea to use cases of consistent weight, and powder charges where variances are large. I've used the same method described to weigh loaded cartridges to identify possible problems. It helps that I'm loading or reloading quality Starline brass purchased new rather than random range scrap with mixed headstamps. The case weights do vary, but not by much. Additionally, I use powder where the charges are like 8 grains, or 10 grains, or 16 grains. It would be a lot harder to identify problems by weight when the difference between a charge and double charge was 2 grains versus 4, or an empty case was only 2 grains lighter. Detecting a case that's plus or minus 8 grains is a lot easier both before and after it's loaded, visually and by weight. That's why I reiterate my advice to use bulky powders like Trailboss, Longshot, IMR4427 and there are many more. Titegroup and Red Dot and such may be cheap and the powder goes a long way, but they're the least forgiving in everything.
     
  15. mjsdwash

    mjsdwash Member

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    for 300, get a collet puller. I know I have broken those plastic hammers on as few as 5 rounds. Taper crimped FMJ may never be a problem, but old LRN Roll crimped were. The puller is a pretty good system, but will cost around $40 last I checked. If your press has clearence (probably not) a wire stripper on the bullet, pull the handle down will work, very quickly, cleanly, with little work. Works great on rifles, but I know my lee's stroke is not high enough to get a 9mm over the turret. Maybe your is.
     
  16. Jack Ryan

    Jack Ryan Member

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    I just toss them in the trash for the land fill.
     
  17. JeeperCreeper

    JeeperCreeper Member

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    Bad advice but something I've done.

    Get a HiPoint and feed them to it.
     
  18. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

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    I got the die and collet today.

    Here's my hangup with adding the lockout die. My flaw in my process was in not being able to visually verify each case was charged. So I am mounting the press lower and using an overhead light to be able to do it. If I add the lockout die.....do I not still need to visually verify? It just seems like an additiuonal solution to the same problem.

    I will look at other powders when I use up the Titegroup. What is better than Titegroup for 9mm but meters better than Unique?
     
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  19. kmw1954

    kmw1954 Member

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    Powders; AA#2, AA#5, HP-38/Win231, Ramshot Silhouette. All of these powders can be found on the shelf at any Cabela's and I have some of all 4. Also all 4 will either fill or overflow the case with a double charge.

    Using the Lee Auto Disk measure I can put the disk in with the #.43 cavity and use any one of these powders with a 115gr plated bullet, though I prefer to use the AA#2 and HP-38 powders.

    I visually check every case before placing a bullet. I also never load to max levels either as a safety factor for myself. Might take me a little longer to load a batch but I am confident each one will go boom.
     
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  20. Archie

    Archie Member

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    Two suggestions on using an inertial bullet puller.

    1. Put a 'stuff in' type foam ear plug in the bottom of the pullet. Bullets won't deform like without a pad.

    2. If one is pulling over a box of ammo, break it up in several appointments. Write notes about the power and components, but it does not (usually) have to be done before dinner.
     
  21. robert4301

    robert4301 Member

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    I'd just chunk them in the trash. The only question then is what tune to whistle as I stroll away from the dumpster.
     
  22. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

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    Amazon got me the collet and die in two days. I pulled them all in just over an hour. 306 total, two more squibs. That answered the question and let me reclaim the components.

    I plan to order collects for all the other cartridges I load too.
     
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  23. kmw1954

    kmw1954 Member

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    Nice going, So with your best guess what do you think caused the problem? Process problem, equipment malfunction, inattentive mishap/distraction?

    In my case it was a process change from a safe working process to one that wasn't as safe. Quickly changed the brass washing process.
     
  24. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

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    Yes. I started using the progressive press and I had to learn it on my own. (I like Lee stuff, but this one had almost no instructions. The guys demonstrating in the youtube videos I watched didn't have the same issues I did.) So if there was a malfunction, and I had to argue with it to fix it, I lost track of what case had been through which station.

    Now I have a much better rhythm for it. And if there's an issue, just pull the case out and recycle it, I don't argue with it. I also bought a stand that moves the press about 4" lower than I had it, and I mounted a lamp to be able to see inside every case, every time.
     
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  25. .455_Hunter

    .455_Hunter Member

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    Collect them in a box and give to the local LEO for disposal. The bomb squads use them for training. I last gave them a box of mystery .270 Win reloads from my uncle's friend's brother or something like that, and a bag of .45 Auto Rim that was sold to me as Remington factory ammo, but looks suspiciously like handloads upon closer inspection. In neither case would I fire such ammo through my Grandfather's Pre-64 .270 heirloom or my Colt 1917 revolver.
     
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