Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by noelf2, Jun 6, 2022.
I am tempted to jab one in my right knee and pump it full of mobil 1....
pack grease into the inner clockworking of a revolver ?
That would seem to just asking for later hard sludge (ever try to clean out a WW-II M-1 fully packed in Cosmoline?)
Spray the innards with Hornady 1-Shot Cleaner (not case) Lube and walk away.
Dries clean/dry and there's no better corrosion preventer around.
If I were to try it......I would use the TRC grease that we keep on hand. Anything would serve the purpose. Mobil 1 is widely considered as the best readily available grease on the market.
I wouldn't use moly because it is nasty black and might ooze or jar a little out under recoil.
I always like cheap old Mystic. It has lots of paraffin in it and will stay put. It's clearish-green color, won't ruin your clothes, doesn't taste too bad....etc. It will eventually plug up the screen on your electric grease gun...
brewer12345, I bought some at Advanced Auto. It comes in a large grease gun tube. Mine did anyway. It's reddish in color. Most automotive parts houses should carry it. Hope that helps.
Well, I recommend Mobil1 grease. It is Synthetic, won't harden like conventional grease, has a temperature range of -30° to 350° F, "plays well" with bp (as opposed to conventional oils/greases), and best of all, you don't have to clean the action! Just clean the barrel, cylinder and wipe the frame down. It makes cleaning cap guns about as easy as it gets.
Other than the reasons I posted above (including on the first page), once it is in the frame, what's the difference? The grease migrates as you cycle the action so it continuously lubes/cleans, keeps parts protected, prevents corrosion and makes shooting cap guns a bit more "maintenance free".
Of course, nobody is forcing you to do anything. The op's question was about " how" to pack not "if". So, that's why in "all that's Holy" some folks pack their frames with Mobil1 grease. And so do I.
That third and fourth click is the bolt dropping followed by the full cock lock up. Could indicate late bolt drop, and or the hand may be slightly short. Can you send a close up picture of the cylinder slots?
But I do suggest moving to a cleaner alternative.
Yes, to each their own but I don't really understand what you mean by "cleaner alternative"?
I pick up my revolvers every day, and put them back down and don't have a need to wipe my hands . . . (the grease is on the inside, not the outside) like I said, you wouldn't know it had it in it any more than any other revolver. It's been yrs since I've had it in my own revolvers and it's just like it was when I put it in.
Good question JCooperfan1911 There do seem to be a lot of choices huh?
Funny you mention a possible short hand, around 4 or 5 days ago I stretched the hand a tad.
Yep, the whole idea is not having to do a "complete tear down" ever!! So, how would you pack the frame? (Op's question. . .)
That’s the stuff. I’ve used it for a few years now and cleanup is as quick and easy as any cartridge gun. It doesn’t gum up… it doesn’t freeze, at least down to -20 here, doesn’t run out in temps well over 100 degrees even after firing many cylinders full in hot full sun. It’s just a better way to manage a cap gun. Sam Colts engineering department would have killed for the stuff.
This might be easier than the plastic bag:
Realizing that you shoot mostly smokeless, the question I have is, when a person is shooting BP is there more a chance of fouling ingress into the innards of the frame?
Good question! Yes, I only shoot smokeless but I pack the frame for the same reasons as for packing the cap guns - keep dirt and fouling out, parts lubed and protected so no need to disassemble for cleaning. I also install an action shield on mine as well for the added protection from dirt/fouling and to "seal" the frame opening to contain the grease neatly.
As for shooting bp and cap guns, any fouling that contacts the grease is neutralized and suspended (all the more reason for more grease, not less.) and remains in suspension until you "scoop and replace"!! Lol!!! There's really no need to clean it all out (when you decide to re-pack) just what you can remove with a Q-tip and replace with new grease. If you have a hypo type applicator, it would be good to apply some behind the hand from up top.
The general rule for Cowboy shooters is check it once a year. For the casual shooter maybe every couple of years or whatever you're comfortable with. Its main advantage though is taking the necessary cleaning of the action out of the cleaning regiment. I had noticed quite a few Cowboy shooters aren't too big on cleaning so what could be done to help " save" the action parts in their cap guns? The answer is "packing the frame". It gets the cleaning aspect down to just the big pieces with no screw driver needed.
You don't get much fouling inside the frame. I use oil and maybe tear mine down once a year. There's no fouling to speak of in there and no rust or corrosion.
Hawger, you are correct! It takes a while to " dirty up" the insides of a cap gun . . . but, after what I've seen in some that come through the shop, ( even in ROA'S!!) pitted, broken. packed with "charcoal", caps, cap frags . . .
It contaminates my work space to have to clean these things up so I can work on them !!
So, it's just much easier to pack a clean revolver and forget about it. It'll be clean when you "unpack " it lol!!
When you first pack it, it may weep slightly but, it's not much and once it's done, it's done.
I know you live a charmed life, no broken springs, no cap jams, fires every time ( just teasing of course . . . but not much lol!!) But that isn't the case across the board.
So just from my experience, it happens much more than you would think.
BTW, I do not have any stock in Mobil1 products . . . !!
I do apparently have a charmed life where cap guns are concerned and I'm proud of it. If I had the luck of some of these guys I'd probably quit shooting them. BTW I have broke a hand spring. On a new gun no less. I do have the occasional misfire, usually due to missing compound in Remington caps ( I seem to be the minority in this).
I bought a used but barely, ROA some time ago, fixed sights just like I like them. It felt gritty and when I pulled it apart to replace the grip frame (Super Blackhawk, must have modification) it was a rusty mess, oily but rusty. Grease would have saved the parts.
I just bought a Pietta 1851 Navy and am considering the grease pack before I unlimber it at the range.
Which grease to use? Lots of people recommend Wilson Ultima-lube for firearms where "grease" is recommended. It's been around for at least 30 years. It's about $5.00 an ounce!
Lubriplate 105 is popular in the auto industry as an assembly lube and of course general lube where a lite lube is recommended.
It's about 1/50 the price of Ultima-lube and performs the same in all my firearms. I'm not saying it is the same, but it might be!
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