How do you remover the cylinder of a Colt Python?

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Not sure if this should be in gunsmithing or here. I assume you unscrew one of the screws. I started to unscrew one, and there was a spring there under it, so I screwed it back in assuming I picked the wrong one. Anyone know?
 
I started to unscrew one, and there was a spring there under it, so I screwed it back in assuming I picked the wrong one.

That was the right screw—or cap, actually. It's on the right side of the frame somewhat forward of the trigger. Make sure your screw driver's blade is the exact thickness of the groove in the cap. If the cap sticks, have a competent gunsmith loosen it: replacement parts are expensive, and nothing looks sadder than a buggered screw on a fine gun.

The cap covers a small spring and the crane retention pin. They're expensive and botheratious to replace, too. Once I've removed mine, I place them in a sealed plastic bag and set the bag aside.

Unlatch and open the cylinder. Gently ease the crane forward. I find it helpful to point the barrel upward and hold the cylinder in my left hand. If you have to wiggle the crane gently, go ahead; if, on the other hand, you have to hit the crane, stop. Wiggle it. Add a few drops of oil here and there. Wait. Add some more oil. You should never—ever!—have to apply force to a Colt revolver crane.

Don't try to remove the crane from the cylinder, as can be done in a trice with a Smith & Wesson. Yes, they can be taken apart, but buggering the threads is a.) very common, and b.) expensive. Clean thoroughly. Wipe dry. Oil lightly. Wipe off excess oil. Reassemble gently as you disassembled.

All there is to it, eh?

I forgot to mention: I'll be doing all the above myself in the next few days: another Python just followed me home. This one's going to end up being a decidedly glitzy, flashy, eye-catchy barbecue gun: partly blued, partly stainless, nitre-blued here and there, gold-plated there and here, and engraved. Pictures to follow, albeit probably not very soon.
 
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