how hard is it to assemble an AR stripped lower receiver??

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InnerVision

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Is this a fairly easy task? It's a little cheaper to buy every thing stripped from what I understand, but can an amature put together the pieces without too much trouble?
 
I am about to put together an AR15 from parts myself. There's really nothing to it. The only hard part sometimes is the pivot spring and detent when putting in the pivot pin.

It depends though. Sometimes it may or may not be cheaper. Seems I can buy a fully assembled lower (with stock) for about the same price as putting it all together. I am just putting it together as a project and for the experience.
 
If you assemble yourself (pretty easy,many well printed guides to be had for the cost of paper and ink to download them) the saveings look to be $40 or so. The bigger nut is buying either a stripped or complete lower seperate from the upper thus paying the 11% fed excise tax only on the lower instead of the whole gun. This fed tax is built into the cost as it is collected on what goes out the manufactors doors.
If you assemble the upper to the lower you save in the range of $100 to $150 on this tax alone.
Another saveings on the build it yourself guns is you don't wind up with spare parts and their extra cost. Example: if you want a particular grip or handguard you get the correct one from the get go instead of replaceing the factory ones with the desired aftermarket ones. Usually the kit guns will have basic barrel,trigger ,grip and handguard parts that may be replaced ,why pay for these things just to store them as spare parts
 
I don't know why people think the take down detent pins are hard to put in. I just put the spring in, put the detent, and mash it down with the take down pin and insert at the same time. Snaps right in. I never launched one this way. Although, if you're paranoid, do this in a plastic bag because if the detent goes flying, I assure you, you'll never find that little thing.


The hardest part in my opinion is putting in that hammer. That's a little bit of a PITA because you're working against the hammer spring.

Occasionally, the trigger guard roll pin, if it is a little on the thick side, or the lower has thick finish, will take quite a pounding to drive it in. You should support the lower, because people have broken the flanges off hitting them hard.


From a general perspective, the AR lower is quite easy to put together. Certain operations on other firearms are significantly harder. AR is cake.


If you get a collapsing stock that has a castle nut, spend the money and get the proper wrench. You'll do less damage and get it tighter.
 
http://www.ameetecarms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=11

Check this out if you havnt bought anything yet.


If you want to do it yourself do like DTOM says and get the right wrench for the stock, its worth the cost. Also a neat trick for detent pins is to get a one sided razor, run the edge on a file a few times to dull it and then press the detent pin in with the flat side of the razor. Your only removing the edge to prevent marring of the reciever and cutting of your hand.
 
if you can change the oil on your car you can build an AR lower . . .

My advice . .read the FAQ on ar15.com and spend the few bucks to buy the proper roll pin punches and the buttstock wrench (if you're using a collapsible buttstock). I bet you'd be hard pressed to spend $20 on the tools.
 
I'd go all the way and buy all the tools necessary to gunsmith an AR. Even then, you'd still be under $80 in tools. Well worth it knowing that you can fully service your rifle, swap barrels, and rebuild them at anytime you want, the way you want.


That is one big reason I like the platform. I'll take the slightly weaker bolts and dirty gas system over a rifle which if something happens, I have to go running to a gunsmith.


Remember, the AR is a tool like any other firearm. It has a specific lifespan. Don't expect a bolt to run 25,000rds. If you know the limits and have realistic expectations, you can keep an AR running a very long time with no problems. Always buy quality parts from the start, so that you don't get any low round count failures. Not all AR parts are made equal. There are a lot of questionable parts from questionable origins. These have inferior metallurgy that cause premature failures. Buy milspec stuff and you'll have a rifle that IS as reliable as you'll ever need it to be.
 
Use the vice-grip trick mentioned on the AR15.com thread to seat the roll pins. It works like a charm and it's easier then trying to manage a pin, a punch and a hammer all at once.
 
Hey MonkeyBear

I've never heard of ameetec arms, but that is the absolute cheapest complete lower I've seen online... Can you or anyone tell me a little bit about this company?
 
Ameetec makes very good lowers. I'd buy one in a second. Pretty sure their lowers are made by LAR, same folks that make lowers for DPMS, CMMG, bushmaster...
 
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