How long does brass last?

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I wouldn't go by just the headstamp, it might've just come out of an old ammo can. Someone could've had that in their basement for 40 years and just decided to use it.

As long as it's stored properly, brass could be good for a long time. Pistol brass can be loaded until it splits, so if you don't do a lot of hot loads...
 
My 45ACP and 38 Specials were once fired around 40 years ago, conservative estimate. Think they might out live me. Qualifiers: None have every been “hot loaded”. Not all are originals as the pile grows with the addition of some other range brass getting mixed in and they aren’t the only calibers I shoot.
 
Till it fails! Inspect each reloading cycle for cracks and signs of failure. Toss those and continue to reload the rest. What I do. You do what makes you feel comfortable.

One reason I wet tumble and get my cases squeaky clean is that I can see trouble before I put that trouble into my gun! Shiny brass inside and out shows problems easier to the naked eye.
 
I have some “nickel plated” brass that’s far more brass than nickel after all of the shooting, cleaning, reloading cycles they’ve been through.

If you’re not running them full throttle, lower pressure handgun cases will often go 20 or more times through the mill. If you’re like me with several thousand cases in the rotation, my pile of .38 Spl. brass will probably outlast me by decades

For me, when I dig through the mixed brass cans and see the (original) Super Vel, Peters, W-W, S&W, Speer and other long out of production headstamps it’s like a trip back in time. :)

Stay safe.
 
In most pistol ammo, don't even worry yourself by it. Just feel for how firm the primer removal/seating takes, and check for any splits at the mouth. If both of those are good, the brass is good. With ammo for revolvers where it is typically roll crimped, take a little extra time checking the mouths, and those you might actually want to trim for a consistent roll crimp. For 45acp, just load it til it splits
 
I have a bunch of SL56 30-06 cases that I got once fired around the year 2000. The range I belonged to at the time would give a new Garand owner an ammo can full of once fired cases. The primers were still crimped in place so I knew they were once fired. The cases were left over from when the CMP provided ammunition for matches.

I've probably only reloaded the cases 3 or 4 times. So, even though the cases are over 60 years old, they have not seen much use.

The OP's cases could have had similar experiences and have not been reloaded very much.
 
I found 18 headstamp 45 acp in my stash the other day, quite a few in the ‘40s too. Some I can’t make out the date but I think they are WCC.

BP
 
I have some 45 acp brass that I've loaded 11 times. I have some 357 brass that my dad gave me that is older than I am from at least 1977. I load most of my stuff pretty conservative. 99% of my brass that has failed was nickel plated 357 cases that are older than me and who knows how many times they were reloaded. Mostly split case necks. I run them until they split or the primers start flattening when I know they are well with in safe published load data that I trust.
 
Here is an article where a guy took new brass along with components and his press to the range to see how many times he could load 45acp brass. He found the case shortens between the head & extraction grooves which eventually causes high primers. After 54 listings he quit. Brass didn't split but primer pockets had become too shallow to safely load
http://massreloading.com/loading45ACP.html
 
The 45 acp rim diameter may get larger from many firings, causing feeding problems. Case head can't slide up the bolt face freely. Nicks on rim may do same.
Brass from hot loaded S&W 645 caused jams in lite loaded Gold Cup for me.
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Dont know how many times my 45 ACP brass has been loaded but I bet is 50 times or more with no problems. I usully loose pistol brass before any fails. For my 38 SPL brass I have shot some so much with WC loads that the headstamp is peened off them. I would say several hundred reloads at minimum starting around 68 or so.
 
With pistol brass I have loaded the same brass so long, the nickel plating has worn almost completely off as has the head stamp info and they are still going. Some 38 spl brass has seen the standard 2.7 grains of bullseye with a 148 wadcutter at least 65 times and are just starting to show signs of some failures. Nothing I load is hot, just target loads so that helps with brass life, not that brass life is real important to me as I have plenty, I just wanted to see how long it could last.
 
When my oldest son got his Kimber 1911 he reloaded in 45 acp he quit counting how many times he reloaded the cases after the 52nd time. Most of the head stamps were worn beyond reconnection.
 
The 45 acp rim diameter may get larger from many firings, causing feeding problems. Case head can't slide up the bolt face freely. Nicks on rim may do same.
Brass from hot loaded S&W 645 caused jams in lite loaded Gold Cup for me.

That's interesting. I've noticed some of my well loved 10mm Auto brass begins having trouble extracting. The rims don't seem that chewed up, but maybe they have changed diameter as well. I'll have to check.
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Treat pistol brass like any other empty to reload. Excessive wear on the rim, weird looking primers and ejector marks on the rim. I also I watch for loose primer pockets and escaping gas marks around the primer pocket. I certainly don't care to reload an empty that someone else had a near over load with.
 
I get my brass clean, size and deprime in bulk, then inspect thoroughly. Just to make sure that the sizing process didn't put any more stress on the brass. Not likely, but thats just how I do it.
 
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