...If others choose to clean between shots, fine! Your guns.
Noz,
Now that's an idea I hadn't considered...
I was in the process of setting up my 18Volt cone removal system with torque limiter and automatic nickel doped anti-seize dispenser. There has to be a market! I'll bet I can sell five before 2016.
Seriously though, I used to worry about moisture in the threads because I submerged my cylinders when cleaning after matches. You know that I normally use two pairs of '60s as my main match guns and back-ups so I decided to run a test.
I started out alternating between sets at matches, cleaning one set with total dis-assembly and the other with just barrel and cylinder removal. The lightly cleaned guns had the frame groups cleaned with sprayed on moose milk. After a month I realized alternating was going minimize my data so I switched by taking one pistol from one set and one from the other, however I maintained the cleaning regimen I had started for each pistol.
This went on for a little over 3 more months until I accidentally dis-assembled the wrong pistol. I often clean while on my truck's tailgate or on a picnic table after a match while talking to friends. Stupid me...Thinking it was the normally stripped down pistol I was wondering how it had gotten so dirty in the trigger group from just 40 rounds when I realized I had stripped the wrong pistol. I hadn't washed the frame components yet so I decided to hold off on the cleaning until I got home and compare it to the one that had been shot in only two matches (probably 120 rounds). That pistol had been set aside without further cleaning beyond than the simple one I described earlier (I did liberally apply some heavy rust preventative to the exterior, cylinder and bore before bagging it).
The frame internally was filthy, it contained BP residue that had mixed with moose milk and then dried between cleanings and had a black film on most everything. There were even small fragments of copper cap material stuck to the remaining lubricating grease. The hammer/ hand/ bolt/ trigger still had traces of a very sticky molybdenum doped lubricant at the interfaces. This lubricant resists water and won't wash off easily without a soap or detergent so the action still worked without a noticeable difference from the one I stripped after every match.
The mate to it which had been used in two matches and then set aside for the balance of the time was also surprisingly dirty, it just had a lower level of grunge in the "innards."
After removing the cones from both pistols I inspected all of the threaded holes for any evidence of corrosion or water infiltration. I couldn't tell any difference between those two pistols or the other pair which were the ones I removed the cones before submersion.
So after all of that "blather" what is my conclusion? Just as you said, if you use a quality anti-seize compound on the threads you're not going to have a problem even if you submerge your cylinders on a regular basis to clean.
However I always use two brushes to rigorously scrub the exterior of the cones during my cleanings. One is a very stiff bristle brush to clean the sides and the cone "pocket" on the cylinder, the other is a small brass bristle brush I use to assure I have cleaned the cap seating surface down to the metal.
Later,
Mako
