I've already broken one wrench, and just bent up another one trying to get my AR-15 stock. I just want to put a single point sling mount on. Does that nut turn clockwise or counter clockwise? How hard to I have to wrench on it? Or do I have to do some special trick to get it to turn? Help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
How the heck do I take off an AR-15 stock?!
- Thread starter TX1911fan
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Owen
Moderator Emeritus
did you push the detent pin out of the way? The one that holds the buffer in the buffer tube?
(wait, are we talking about an A2 stock, or a M4 stock?)
(wait, are we talking about an A2 stock, or a M4 stock?)
blackhawk2000
member
What brand AR, and what model?
blackhawk2000
member
I think RRA uses loctite. Are you breaking the little nub off the wrench? Try some heat if you have any. DPMS makes a really nice wrench, if you want to spend the money, or maybe you can borrow one. Or take it to a smith if you still can't break it free.
First remove the buffer and spring from the stock. Then loosen the castle nut. Behind the castle nut is a flat plate. Behind that flat plate is a spring and a detent. #93, #92. Those will shoot out across the room if you are not careful. Then when you start to unthread the tube, #18, #19, will shoot out across the room.
First remove the buffer and spring from the stock. Then loosen the castle nut. Behind the castle nut is a flat plate. Behind that flat plate is a spring and a detent. #93, #92. Those will shoot out across the room if you are not careful. Then when you start to unthread the tube, #18, #19, will shoot out across the room.
Quick Karl
member
Any Locktite can be undone by applying a little heat, but don’t get too crazy around all that aluminum and plastic... A propane torch a little at a time should do the trick – but aluminum melts WAY easier than steel. Heat is what you want, not molten parts 
Of course you have to make sure the castle nut is NOT staked on (swaged into a notch somewhere along the circumference where it meets the receiver).
Of course you have to make sure the castle nut is NOT staked on (swaged into a notch somewhere along the circumference where it meets the receiver).
Last time I took mine off, I used this method. I removed the stock. Then I used a couple of wooden clamps, one on the buffer tube, almost flush with the nut, the other clamp to hold the first to a table. Apply wench and a good counter clockwise (facing butt end) yank. Poor man's vise.
If you're looking for a new wrench, I recommend one of the stamped steel, three lugged type.
If you're looking for a new wrench, I recommend one of the stamped steel, three lugged type.
Bartholomew Roberts
Member
Some manufacturers use Loctite instead of staking because they use cheaper metal on the castle nuts that will fracture if staked.
I would look for staking and if you don't see that, apply some heat. The stock GI castle nut wrench isn't that great either. Most of the nicer armorer's wrenchs also have a good castle nut wrench built into them.
I would look for staking and if you don't see that, apply some heat. The stock GI castle nut wrench isn't that great either. Most of the nicer armorer's wrenchs also have a good castle nut wrench built into them.
Any deformations in the end plate, lining up with the notches in the receiver face of the castle nut? If yes, it is staked. Its not a problem, mine was staked and came off with the proper application of leverage. It does seem though that RRA uses loctite rather than staking.
the castle nut has little square notches in it that, amazingly enough, make it look sort of like miniature battlements. if some metal from the plate has been squished into one of the notches, it's been "staked". You should unstake it before trying to spin that nut, but I'm inclined to doubt that's your problem, as the nut would probably have moved a bit before the stake really provided much resistance.
as others have said, red loctite is the disease. heat is the cure.
btw, when you get around to putting it back together, don't use loctite
as others have said, red loctite is the disease. heat is the cure.
btw, when you get around to putting it back together, don't use loctite
Quick Karl
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RockyMtnTactical
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You really need to heat up the castle nut since RRA loctites theirs.
Use a heat gun or a hair drier.
Use a heat gun or a hair drier.
RockyMtnTactical
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I don't think it has to be that hot. I don't have a problem removing castle nuts on AR15's as long as they are moderately hot. I've never had one to 300 degrees though...
You don't have to break down the loctite completely, just heat it up enough to get the bond to loosen a little bit. I would say that 120-150 degrees would be plenty warm from my experience.
Trust me, I have removed a lot of castle nuts for people...
You don't have to break down the loctite completely, just heat it up enough to get the bond to loosen a little bit. I would say that 120-150 degrees would be plenty warm from my experience.
Trust me, I have removed a lot of castle nuts for people...
Olympic Arms
Ok I have the same problem.
It is an Olympic Arms K23 Pistol.
Trying to get the castle nut off.
I understand the heat if loctite has been used.
But what is staking ? I do see a notch in the middle of the castle nut.. do I need to depress this thing or what ?
Man could they have made it any harder? On the other hand I understand that doing all they do makes it perform like a charm.
Ok I have the same problem.
It is an Olympic Arms K23 Pistol.
Trying to get the castle nut off.
I understand the heat if loctite has been used.
But what is staking ? I do see a notch in the middle of the castle nut.. do I need to depress this thing or what ?
Man could they have made it any harder? On the other hand I understand that doing all they do makes it perform like a charm.
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