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How the heck do I take off an AR-15 stock?!

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by TX1911fan, May 12, 2008.

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  1. TX1911fan

    TX1911fan Member

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    I've already broken one wrench, and just bent up another one trying to get my AR-15 stock. I just want to put a single point sling mount on. Does that nut turn clockwise or counter clockwise? How hard to I have to wrench on it? Or do I have to do some special trick to get it to turn? Help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. Owen

    Owen Moderator Emeritus

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    did you push the detent pin out of the way? The one that holds the buffer in the buffer tube?

    (wait, are we talking about an A2 stock, or a M4 stock?)
     
  3. Jimmie

    Jimmie Member

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    Is it red loctited on? A little heat while you turn might fix it for you.

    Here's a exploded drawing to make sure we're talking about the same stuff. Can you explain with that where you're breaking the wrenches?

    [​IMG]
     
  4. fchavis

    fchavis Member

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    you broke a wrench on a castle nut? It turns CCW. Is the end plate staked?

    ETA: I didn't even consider the possibility of a fixed stock, I have no experience there.
     
  5. blackhawk2000

    blackhawk2000 member

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    What brand AR, and what model?
     
  6. TX1911fan

    TX1911fan Member

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    It's a Rock River. Collapsible stock. Do I need to take the buffer tube out first? The nut I am trying to remove is not on the exploded diagram. It would go on the end of #21, on the threads of #21 snugged up against the lower receiver.
     
  7. TX1911fan

    TX1911fan Member

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    Just broke the secong f%*&#ng wrench! I must be doing something wrong! This is the one I broke.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. fchavis

    fchavis Member

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    How are you immobilizing the receiver? Are you using an actual AR stock wrench?
     
  9. fchavis

    fchavis Member

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    Can't tell from the pic, is that metal or plastic?
     
  10. TX1911fan

    TX1911fan Member

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    I'm just holding it in my hands. MidwayUSA says it is an AR stock wrench. See the picture above. It's a metal wrench. It started to bend right at the neck, then the nub broke off.
     
  11. Avenger29

    Avenger29 Member

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    Rock River apparently loctites their extension tube nuts. Plenty of people have a lot of trouble with them. Can't tell you how to fix it, though...
     
  12. TX1911fan

    TX1911fan Member

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    So maybe I get another wrench, heat up the extension tube a bit and then give it a go? How hot do I need to get it?

    And, does just that nut turn, or the whole tube? Thanks guys.
     
  13. blackhawk2000

    blackhawk2000 member

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    I think RRA uses loctite. Are you breaking the little nub off the wrench? Try some heat if you have any. DPMS makes a really nice wrench, if you want to spend the money, or maybe you can borrow one. Or take it to a smith if you still can't break it free.


    First remove the buffer and spring from the stock. Then loosen the castle nut. Behind the castle nut is a flat plate. Behind that flat plate is a spring and a detent. #93, #92. Those will shoot out across the room if you are not careful. Then when you start to unthread the tube, #18, #19, will shoot out across the room.
     
  14. Quick Karl

    Quick Karl member

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    Any Locktite can be undone by applying a little heat, but don’t get too crazy around all that aluminum and plastic... A propane torch a little at a time should do the trick – but aluminum melts WAY easier than steel. Heat is what you want, not molten parts :eek:

    Of course you have to make sure the castle nut is NOT staked on (swaged into a notch somewhere along the circumference where it meets the receiver).
     
  15. TX1911fan

    TX1911fan Member

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    Yeah, it's the castle nut that won't budge. I'll order yet ANOTHER wrench and try a little heat. I'll probably end up hating the sling too, and that will piss me off even more!
     
  16. fchavis

    fchavis Member

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    Last time I took mine off, I used this method. I removed the stock. Then I used a couple of wooden clamps, one on the buffer tube, almost flush with the nut, the other clamp to hold the first to a table. Apply wench and a good counter clockwise (facing butt end) yank. Poor man's vise.

    If you're looking for a new wrench, I recommend one of the stamped steel, three lugged type.
     
  17. Bartholomew Roberts

    Bartholomew Roberts Moderator Emeritus

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    Some manufacturers use Loctite instead of staking because they use cheaper metal on the castle nuts that will fracture if staked.

    I would look for staking and if you don't see that, apply some heat. The stock GI castle nut wrench isn't that great either. Most of the nicer armorer's wrenchs also have a good castle nut wrench built into them.
     
  18. TX1911fan

    TX1911fan Member

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    I assume I'll see a pin or some other indication of staking? The castle nut appears to be intact. If it is staked, does that mean I can't remove it?
     
  19. fchavis

    fchavis Member

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    Any deformations in the end plate, lining up with the notches in the receiver face of the castle nut? If yes, it is staked. Its not a problem, mine was staked and came off with the proper application of leverage. It does seem though that RRA uses loctite rather than staking.
     
  20. taliv

    taliv Moderator

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    the castle nut has little square notches in it that, amazingly enough, make it look sort of like miniature battlements. if some metal from the plate has been squished into one of the notches, it's been "staked". You should unstake it before trying to spin that nut, but I'm inclined to doubt that's your problem, as the nut would probably have moved a bit before the stake really provided much resistance.

    as others have said, red loctite is the disease. heat is the cure.

    btw, when you get around to putting it back together, don't use loctite :)
     
  21. Quick Karl

    Quick Karl member

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  22. RockyMtnTactical

    RockyMtnTactical Member

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    You really need to heat up the castle nut since RRA loctites theirs.

    Use a heat gun or a hair drier.
     
  23. DnPRK

    DnPRK Member

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    You have to heat the castle nut to 300 degrees to get the locktite to break down.
     
  24. RockyMtnTactical

    RockyMtnTactical Member

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    I don't think it has to be that hot. I don't have a problem removing castle nuts on AR15's as long as they are moderately hot. I've never had one to 300 degrees though...

    You don't have to break down the loctite completely, just heat it up enough to get the bond to loosen a little bit. I would say that 120-150 degrees would be plenty warm from my experience.

    Trust me, I have removed a lot of castle nuts for people...
     
  25. mpanwar

    mpanwar Member

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    Olympic Arms

    Ok I have the same problem.

    It is an Olympic Arms K23 Pistol.

    Trying to get the castle nut off.

    I understand the heat if loctite has been used.

    But what is staking ? I do see a notch in the middle of the castle nut.. do I need to depress this thing or what ?

    Man could they have made it any harder? On the other hand I understand that doing all they do makes it perform like a charm.
    :cuss:
     
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