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How to clean , Lubricate a revolver?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by efeng9622, Nov 20, 2005.

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  1. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    Hi!
    I just bought a Smith & Wesson Model 67 revolver. I know how to clean,Lubricate the Pistol and Rifle, but for revolver this is first time.
    I need to know where I have to Disassemble it. I really appreiciatae if someone can tell me something about that.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Vern Humphrey

    Vern Humphrey Member

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    My advice is don't disassemble it at all -- except perhaps to remove the grips.

    Your biggest problem will be with fouling build up in the cylinder throats, under the topstrap just above the breech, and in the bore. You can see all these, and scrubbing with a brush dipped in solvent, followed with a patch, then a good gun oil is enough.

    After scrubbing, raise the ejector star and clean under there with a lightly moistened patch.

    For guns that have been exposed to extreme conditions, I take the grips off and squirt brake cleaner into the innards and let drain, then follow up with a drop or two of good gun oil administered in the hammer and trigger slots, plus a drop or so on the crane.
     
  3. SJshooter

    SJshooter Member

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    Here's two websites that do an okay job of laying out a basic revolver cleaning routine. Others will have their preferences for brands and products (for example, I use FP-10 for everything, and nothing else, works great: http://www.fp10.com) or routine, but this is a good starting point. Only thing I would add is if you have a blue gun to avoid the first routine's use of an external brass brush and use the nylon instead:

    http://attrition.org/technical/firearms/357clean/

    http://www.geocities.com/kemays/cleanrev.html
     
  4. JJpdxpinkpistols

    JJpdxpinkpistols Member

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    Don't bother with removing anything but the grips, and even then, only about every 6 months or when the revolver took a beating in the elements. After 6 months of carrying, it makes sense to open the grips, and wipe the area clean. I actually found some lint in mine...dunno how lint got inside, but was just a bit of pocket fuzz.

    Hint: I wet the barrel with CLP and then let it sit around for a while in a plastic bag. 1/2 hour or so. long enough to stow the ammo (kids around--don't wanna have kids messing with the ammo in the same room we are cleaning guns), wash my hands, find a pair of rubber gloves, and get a cuppa coffee poured.

    See...any time you start removing bolts and screws and plates, and such, you weaken the screw and or mounting for that screw. the more you do it, the weaker it will get until one day, many years down the road, you pull the trigger and the thing goes BANG, but a screw falls out. That could be bad.

    Where the ejector rod spins the cylinder gets dirty pretty easy...just put some CLP in there, spin it around a bit, let it soak, then hold a qtip up against the joint and spin it some more.

    the rest of it is covered by just about every link posted here.
     
  5. patrol120

    patrol120 Member

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    Call me weird, but I pull the sideplate every time I clean My Smiths. Habit, I gues, as that is what my dad always did. I have never, ever seen a sideplate screw fail from being screwed and unscrewed too many times.
     
  6. RON in PA

    RON in PA Member

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    Older Smith and Wesson manuals advised against any disassembly and in fact stated that one of the advantages of the revolver was that they did not require it.
     
  7. molonlabe

    molonlabe Member

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    I do it once every couple of years. Sideplate cylinder the works. S&W has reverse threads on the cylinder ejector. I get a lot of crud out of it after a couple of years of shooting. (to the point it will not spin freely)
     
  8. lyricsdad

    lyricsdad Member

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    Yeah first time I had to clean a revolver.. talk about lots and lots of scrubbing! especially if you have a .357 and are running some .38s through it.. I may not do that that much, man its a chore cleaning the shell chambers.. shooting it was fun, which made it very worth it.. I then put some rem oil dabs on the parts that move, wiped all the access.. and final rub down with an oily patch and put her away.

    revolvers seem harder to clean that autoloaders.
     
  9. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    I have two questions,
    1) I got the follow message from an article about how to clean and lubricate revolver,
    "It's probably best to resist the urge to dribble oil into the frame
    via the hammer and trigger slots. The oil will invariably leak
    out at some future point, and an encounter with a sandy
    environment will turn the inner workings into a gritty sludge
    that will do the gun no good."
    I don't know what it said is correct or not but I got other message said I should put some oil in hammer and trigger slot. Should I do it or don't do it?
    2) I unscrewed 3 screws from my sideplate, but I couldn't pull the sideplate, I don't know why?
     
  10. RON in PA

    RON in PA Member

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    Smith and Wesson advises a drop or two of oil on the hammer so that it runs into the action.

    To take off the sideplate after the grips and the plate screws are removed (only use a properly fitting screwdriver) hit the frame with a wooden hammer handle or plastic headed hammer. This will spring the plate. NEVER PRY THE SIDEPLATE.
     
  11. ChristopherG

    ChristopherG Member

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    Unless you have a very high mechanical aptitude, getting under the sideplate without specific guidance from a pro is a good way to end up making an embarrassing trip to a gunsmith with a box of tiny parts instead of a gun. If you really want to learn the works of your gun, I recommend the Jerry Miculek trigger job video (google it, you'll find it). He'll lead you step by step through dissassembly and reassembly in the process of polishing the internals of your S&W.

    Unless you're gonna do that, you've got basically no business under the sideplate. A moderate course of action, which does make the revolver a bit easier to clean thoroughly, is to remove only the front (toward the barrel end) of the three sideplate screws. This will allow you to slide out the crane on which the cylinder rotates (slide it out from both the frame and the cylinder), so you can get more easily into both the cylinder and the frame window for cleaning.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2005
  12. Mad Chemist

    Mad Chemist Member

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    If the revolver is blued and you carry it often, then remove the grips every time you clean it. Sweat is very corrosive. If you don't carry it then this isn't necessary.
     
  13. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    If I hit the frame with a wooden hammer handle or plastic headed hammer. This will spring the plane. but there are any inner parts will be fallen out and hard to be re-assembled? that is the only thing i worry about.
     
  14. ChristopherG

    ChristopherG Member

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    YES. That is exactly what I indicated in my cautionary post above. It is also unnecessary; why are you determined to do it?
     
  15. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    I just like to disassemble every thing i have, but .I think I don't have enough experience.I wouldn't do it right now.

    Thank you let me know !
     
  16. ChristopherG

    ChristopherG Member

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    You are welcome. You can enjoy your revolver for many years without ever opening up the insides. Thee cleaning and lubrication instructions given in the links above will do everything you need.
     
  17. oweno

    oweno Member

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    I dug out a copy of S&W's magazine/catalog "Smith & Wesson Handguns 1995". In it, there's an article on how to care for your handgun. In the revolver section, the author says:

    Clean the bore with a bore-cleaning solvent and a nylon bristled brush.

    Clean the charge holes in the cylinder.

    Using a mild solvernt, really clean the area under the extractor with a toothbrush-type brush. Don't oil the cylinder and extractor heavily.

    Clean the area under the topstrap, especially over the barrel.

    and now an exact quote:

    "Lubricate the bore very lightly to avoid rapid particle buildup. Next, cock the hammer and apply one drop of oil in front of it, letting the oil run down into the internal works. Dry fire the gun a few times to distribute the oil in the mechanism. Remember, oil lightly. This is generally true for all pistols and revolvers. You want to oil it but too much lubricant attracts dust, grit, and unburned powder which can cause the gun to malfunction. Lubricating sparingly works best."
     
  18. SJshooter

    SJshooter Member

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    If you are determined to open it up, memorize this first:

    [​IMG]
     
  19. S&W620

    S&W620 Member

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    On the subject, anyone familiar with or use a "BoreSnake"?
     
  20. oweno

    oweno Member

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    Boresnake? Yep, use 'em all the time - nifty item - I zip it through the barrel and through the cylinder holes and it really gets the crud out.

    I've got them in different calibers for my various handguns. Well worth the money.

    and Happy Thanksgiving all...

    Owen
     
  21. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    Thank you very much everybody here! Also, I like this map even I didn't open it
    up.

    Thanks again.
     
  22. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    I don't know why the revolver_cutaway is gone!

     
  23. efeng9622

    efeng9622 Member

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    To take off the sideplate after the grips and the plate screws are removed (only use a properly fitting screwdriver) hit the frame with a wooden hammer handle or plastic headed hammer. This will spring the plate. NEVER PRY THE SIDEPLATE.[/QUOTE]

    Yesterday, I removed three screws and tried to use a wooden hammer handle to hit the frame, no matter how hard work I did, i still couldn't let the plate to fall out.i think i didn't use the corrected way, it is looks like there is something inside stably pull the plate . I had to give up.

    Thanks!
     
  24. mike240se

    mike240se Member

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    is it ok to use breakfree's bore cleaner on the cylinders? mine are caked up real good...

    also, what should i use to clean the exterior of my 10-5 s&w .38 spl its nickel plated, the gunsmith said solvent on the exterior is what dulled my finish.....
     
  25. TonyB

    TonyB Member

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    Breakfree is fine.I use it mostly as a lube,but it is a cleaner also.There are better one out there for cleaning,but with alittle elbow grease CLP is good.Not sure about nickle finished though,but I think breakfree is gentle enough for wipe down purposes.
    hint:to clean cylinder holes use a brush that's one size bigger than the caliber.I use a .40 cal. one for my 38's.
    FYI,I use Hoppe's Elite to clean bore and cylinder,and Breakfree as a lube and wipe down..
     
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