UltimateReloader
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Anyone know how to release an APS strip that's 1/2 fed through the priming system?
How to release an APS strip - RCBS Pro 2000
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Lower the press handle slightly and pull the strip out the back of the press. Never try to pull the strip toward the front..i.e. opposite the direction it enters.
Make sure that a loose primer, or one riding high in the strip, is not preventing it from advancing. You can reseat the primer (in the strip) using a toothpick through the hole in the shell holder or by unscrewing the primer seating stem assembly to clear one that is hard to find. Caution: Your primers must be seated and stay seated no higher than flush with the top of the strip in order to advance correctly. Piece of cake.
The APS system is outstanding. You will get your sea legs in no time.
I used two Dillons for years and they were generally OK but the 2000 is much stronger, simpler and supports much more rapid cartridge changes...I'll never sell mine.
Make sure that a loose primer, or one riding high in the strip, is not preventing it from advancing. You can reseat the primer (in the strip) using a toothpick through the hole in the shell holder or by unscrewing the primer seating stem assembly to clear one that is hard to find. Caution: Your primers must be seated and stay seated no higher than flush with the top of the strip in order to advance correctly. Piece of cake.
The APS system is outstanding. You will get your sea legs in no time.
I used two Dillons for years and they were generally OK but the 2000 is much stronger, simpler and supports much more rapid cartridge changes...I'll never sell mine.
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UltimateReloader
Member
Got it, it seems that I did not seat the primers low enough when using the APS strip primer loading tool...
Nice going!
Two other tricks which have come in handy with the 2000 are as follows: The first involves using a piece of suitably sized material like 1/2 of a shaved clothes pin to block the primer advance located below the strip (at the front of the unit). Just slip it in the "piston" opening and you can safely operate your press, if you need to, without advancing the strip. The second is cleaning the primer drop tube without removing it by using a piece of (large diameter) trimmer string to push a 6mm/243 cal patch through the opening in the shell plate and down through the tube. Do this reasonably often or primer debris and spent primers can back up and interfere with the press.
Enjoy your 2000, it's a great press!
Two other tricks which have come in handy with the 2000 are as follows: The first involves using a piece of suitably sized material like 1/2 of a shaved clothes pin to block the primer advance located below the strip (at the front of the unit). Just slip it in the "piston" opening and you can safely operate your press, if you need to, without advancing the strip. The second is cleaning the primer drop tube without removing it by using a piece of (large diameter) trimmer string to push a 6mm/243 cal patch through the opening in the shell plate and down through the tube. Do this reasonably often or primer debris and spent primers can back up and interfere with the press.
Enjoy your 2000, it's a great press!
GW Staar
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I keep a hex wrench on hand, in one of the holes in the right side of the press base, sized to just fit in the primer feed hole in the shellplate. I use it to push "too high" primers back down when they occur.
Also I built "this" to do what WmCC did with his shaved tooth pick.
One more "accessory" is sometimes handy. A 1/2" machine bolt 1" long and two nuts locked to each other at the bolt's end can be used as a spacer under the shell plate to allow you to advance the press without pushing a primer up. (it stops the forward stroke only)
The press's forward (primer feeding) stroke is just past the top position of the press handle. There are times when you don't intend to prime a case and you go a hair past "top" and a primer will move upward just a hair, enough to make the strip stop feeding. That's the most common case of needing to press a primer back down with a toothpick or hexwrench. The "spacer" above prevents going past "top".
I use the spacer and the Primer feed mod (or the cloths pin if you'd rather not build it) to get back on line fast, when I lose my concentration or get interrupted enough to cause an operator error.
I agree with WmCC on his comments on the press. As good as a Dillon, but stronger, simpler to use (especially if you change calibers), and the priming system is superior.
Also I built "this" to do what WmCC did with his shaved tooth pick.
One more "accessory" is sometimes handy. A 1/2" machine bolt 1" long and two nuts locked to each other at the bolt's end can be used as a spacer under the shell plate to allow you to advance the press without pushing a primer up. (it stops the forward stroke only)
The press's forward (primer feeding) stroke is just past the top position of the press handle. There are times when you don't intend to prime a case and you go a hair past "top" and a primer will move upward just a hair, enough to make the strip stop feeding. That's the most common case of needing to press a primer back down with a toothpick or hexwrench. The "spacer" above prevents going past "top".
I use the spacer and the Primer feed mod (or the cloths pin if you'd rather not build it) to get back on line fast, when I lose my concentration or get interrupted enough to cause an operator error.
I agree with WmCC on his comments on the press. As good as a Dillon, but stronger, simpler to use (especially if you change calibers), and the priming system is superior.
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